The seven second peaks: a tougher challenge

The seven second peaks: a tougher challenge

The secondary seven peaks are considered a much more difficult mountaineering challenge than the more popular seven peaks

Previously, I wrote about my dream of climbing the Seven Peaks and outlined a realistic, if not deeply challenging and expensive, program for achieving this goal.

This week I'm looking at the seven second peaks; the second highest mountains on any continent. The highest peaks are a dream of mine, but I draw the line at the second highest - they are just too scary for an amateur enthusiast like me!

We present the seven second peaks

Alpinism author Jon Krakauer wrote in Into Thin Air (one of my favorite mountaineering books) that it would be more challenging to climb the second highest peak on each continent than the highest.

One obvious factor is that these peaks are not that popular, so there is often less mountaineering infrastructure. But even ignoring that factor, the seven-second peaks listed below are scarier and more challenging, often with higher mortality rates and lower success rates.

1. Puncak Mandala

Location: Oceania (Indonesia) Altitude: 4,760 m (15,617 ft) Range: Jayawijaya Range Duration: 21-25 days

(Image: Christian Stangl, Creative Commons)

Puncak Mandala is about 120 meters lower than Oceania's highest mountain Puncak Jaya and doesn't look as dramatic, that's for sure. Jaya is a very technical mountain that requires advanced climbing skills.

However, Mandala has an extremely challenging approach route, evidenced by the fact that there have only been two successful approaches and summits to date.

2. Mount the tire

Location: AntarcticaElevation: 4,852m (15,919ft)Range: Sentinel RangeDuration: 20+ days

(Image: Christian Stangl, Creative Commons)

Mount Tyree requires technical climbing and has only been climbed by 10 people since its discovery in 1958. It is classified as a technical climb, while Vinson, the continent's highest peak, offers little difficulty beyond the normal challenges of climbing in Antarctica. Tyree is only 40 meters lower than Vinson.

3. Mountain Kenya

Location: Africa (Kenya)Height: 5,199 m (17,057ft)Range: none - freestandingDuration: 5-7 days

(Image: Chris 73, Wikimedia Commons)

In Africa, the summit of Mount Kenya (5,199 m) is more of a rock climb, especially near the summit, while Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) can be climbed without technical difficulty.

About 50 climbers climb Mount Kenya's highest peak each year, compared with the 14,000 or more who climb Kilimanjaro.

4. Dykh Tau

Location: Europe (Russia) Altitude: 5,205 m (17,077 ft) Range: Caucasus Mountains Duration: 7-9 days

alt=“Seven-Second-Summit-Dykh-tau”>(Image: Shaman17, Creative Commons)

The standard route on Elbrus is long and physically demanding, but not technically difficult. However, Dych-Tau has no easy routes. The easiest is classified as Russian Alpine 4B, which includes steep and rocky sections and 55 degree snow and ice slopes.

Although it is 200 meters lower than Elbrus, it is certainly not a walk in the (Caucasus) park.

5. Assemble Logan

Location: North America (Canada)Altitude: 5,959 m (19,551 ft)Area: Saint EliasDuration: 10-15 days

alt=“Seven Second Summit Logan – 1″>(Image: Public Domain)

Logan is at least the equal of Denali, although it is over 200 meters lower than the highest mountain in North America. Areas of Logan are technically more difficult, but Denali has a brutally long and cold entry.

Due to active tectonic uplift, Mount Logan is still rising in height, so perhaps in a few decades it will actually be the tallest mountain in North America.

6. Ojos del Salado

Location: South America (Argentina/Chile) Altitude: 6,893 m (22,615 ft) Range: Andes Duration: 19-22 days

(Image: sergejf, Creative Commons)

At 6,961 m, Aconcagua is a very high mountain. However, it is not technical and is often referred to as the “highest trekking peak in the world”. Ojos del Salado is only about 70 meters lower and involves some short climbing in places, so it is probably the harder mountain. At this altitude, a short climb can make all the difference.

7. K2

Location: Asia (Pakistan/China) Altitude: 8,611 m (28,251 ft) Range: Karakoram Duration: 50-70 days

Atlas & BootsK2 is the second highest mountain in the world

This mountain needs no introduction. K2 is known as Savage Mountain due to the extremely difficult climb and the second highest death rate among 8,000-meter peaks.

Unlike Annapurna, the mountain with the highest mortality rate, K2 has never been climbed in winter. Unpredictable avalanches mean that one in four summiteers die on the slopes of this treacherous mountain.

The mountain requires greater technical climbing skills than Everest and all of the dangers associated with climbing above 8,000 meters remain. They don’t call it the “death zone” for nothing.

Climbing the seven second peaks

To date, only one man has climbed all the mountains above: the Austrian mountaineer Christian Stangl, who also climbed the seven third peaks, i.e. the first, second and third highest mountains on all continents, the so-called Triple Seven summit. Epos.

Note: This list is based on the Messner or Carstensz Seven Summits list, assuming that the highest point in Oceania is the Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia and not Mount Kosciuszko in Australia.

Mountaineer Hans Kammerlander has written an account of his controversial attempts to climb the Seven Second Summits.
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