Visit to the Erta Ale volcano: the hike to hell and back”

Visit to the Erta Ale volcano: the hike to hell and back”

Erta Ale in Ethiopia is one of the world's most active volcanoes, rising above a deadly desert. We ask if it's worth the risk

The 4×4 steams through the desert, bumping over rocks and cracks. Sand whips against the window, almost liquid in its movement. Immediately behind me sits our military escort: two men with automatic rifles slung casually across their laps.

I hate to say it, but there is a distinct sense of lawlessness in the air. I hate it because this is Africa and Westerners have been coming to the continent for centuries to collect stories of risk and adventure to tell at dinner parties over cheese and wine.

I don't mean to be like that, but it's true: here, in the Danakil Depression in the Afar region of Ethiopia, it really does feel like anything could happen.

The feeling of risk is not just an exaggeration. In 2012, an attack by Afar rebels left five tourists dead and four people kidnapped, and deadly incidents continue to this day. As a result, tourists are prohibited from entering the area without a military escort.

alt=“Our military escort to Erta Ale in the Danakil Depression”>Atlas & BootsOur military escort to Erta Ale in the Danakil Depression

Our escort consists of two men, both stoic and unsmiling. As we drive, our guide gives us gas masks for later. I look at Peter and know he's wondering the same thing I'm wondering: What on earth are we doing here?

To explain, we have to rewind to the beginning of this year when we idly put together our list of the countries we most want to see. In my top 5, Ethiopia with Erta Ale was the main reason I wanted to visit. A few months later, here we are, hurtling toward one of the world's most active volcanoes for the trek to hell and back.

alt="Erta Ale has been described as a walk to hell and back">Atlas & BootsErta Ale has been described as a trek to hell and back

The Danakil Depression is one of the hottest, deepest and driest places on earth. It is so extreme that life has been found here in pure acid. Temperatures regularly reach 45°C (113°F) and seas of molten magma seep just beneath the surface of the crust. It makes sense to start the hike to Erta Ale after dark to avoid the suffocating heat of the day.

We set off at 6pm, just as the edges of the sky began to darken. Our guide, Haftu, is nimble and agile, hopping over huge rocks in the rapidly approaching darkness. My flashlight is weak and I have to concentrate intensely on each step to avoid tripping.

The pace is faster than comfortable, but after years of practice as Peter's weaker hiking partner, I'm used to going out of my comfort zone. We trudge on, with Haftu at the front and our man with a gun at his back. At some point I hear his labored breathing and am reassured that I'm not the only one struggling.

The hike to the crater camp takes an average of three hours; we can do it in two and a half. As we approach the volcano's devilish glow, I feel a sharp hint of excitement. This. This is adventure.

alt="A devilish glow rises above the rim of Erta Ale">Atlas & BootsA devilish glow rises above the rim of Erta Ale

We take a short break at camp. The heat isn't as oppressive as I'd feared, and the "hike to hell" was less harsh than, say, the hike to Matavanu Crater in Samoa, which had left me in tears at the end.

We march on, carefully navigating the last 15 minutes to the edge of Erta Ale. There, in all its glory, lies the longest-existing lava lake in the world. It's everything I imagined: angry, terrifying, white-hot. The lava bubbles and explodes, making us yawn in amazement.

Erta Ale is not our first hike to a volcano, but it is exceptional in a different way. Less explosive, but more expansive. The lava is not concentrated in a single vent; it seeps, flows and erupts across a vast space.

We spend an eternity watching it, filming it, imprinting it indelibly in our memories. This is and must be one of the best experiences of our lives.

After an hour, the Erta Ale is smoking – befitting its name: “Smoking Mountain” in the local Afar language. Satisfied that the risk, effort and expense of reaching the rim was worth it, we pack up our gear and head back to camp.

There we collapse onto our mattresses, which lie side by side in a stone Afar hut. As I lie there in the heat and wind, I think about the “Shafia test.” Named after my youngest sister, it asks, “Would I recommend this to Shafia?” and therefore 'Would I recommend this to our readers?'

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Atlas & Boots

The risk of visiting Erta Ale is real and tangible, but the biggest challenge I found was the lack of infrastructure. There is no dresser in camp (here or the next night), there is no running water, no trash cans. I discovered a rat in our hut and the area is littered with plastic bottles and toilet paper that can't be buried in the hardened lava, floating around when tourists don't bring them back down. With that in mind, would I recommend a visit to Erta Ale?

Honestly? Yes.

Knowing what I know, and knowing that a fatal incident occurred just days after our visit, I would return and therefore must conclude that it was worth the risk and effort. A visit to Erta Ale is challenging, but also exciting, enchanting and life-affirming.

I previously weighed the pros and cons of risky travel and came to the conclusion that we should explore as much as our nerves allow. This, ladies and gentlemen, is adventure.

Visit to Erta Ale: the essentials

What: Visiting Erta Ale as part of a 2-day, 3-day tour of the Danakil Depression in Ethiopia.

Where: Our tour of the Danakil Depression was booked with a stay at Wukro Lodge in the town of Wukro. This cozy eco-lodge uses solar energy and offers traditional décor and excellent views of the surrounding hills. There's free Wi-Fi in public areas, a bar and restaurant on-site, and a pool under construction at the time of writing.

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Atlas & Boots

Accommodation on the Danakil Depression tour itself is extremely basic. At Erta Ale (first night) we camped on thin mattresses in a stone hut. The second night we slept under the stars on makeshift wooden beds.

We recommend that you pack your own sleeping bag. While the area is known for rising temperatures, nights become windy. Note that there is no dresser, so you will have to walk a comfortable path to answer nature's call.

When: The best time to visit Erta Ale is between October and February, when soaring temperatures are most bearable.

How: We visited Erta Ale with Smiling Ethiopia, recommended by Lonely Planet Ethiopia. The two of us were accompanied by an English-speaking guide, two drivers, two chefs and a two-man military escort, transported in two 4×4 vehicles.

The tour was well organized and as comfortable as possible given the lack of underlying infrastructure in the area. (We recommend packing a bright headlamp, sleeping bag, tissues/wet wipes, and antibacterial gel.) Our SUVs were sturdy and strong, and we ate very well thanks to our talented chef Yidnak and his assistant.

We paid $300 per person for a 3 day, 2 night tour of Erta Ale, Dallol and the Asale Lake salt flats. It's expensive but worth the money. A 3-night, 4-day extended tour costs $400 per person. Book via Mulugeta Gebrehiwot: smilingethiopiatravel.com, smilingethiopiatravel@yahoo.com, (251-1) 150694.

Skybus and Selam operate comfortable buses between Addis Ababa and Mekele, the starting point for Danakil tours. If you choose Wukro Lodge, you can take a local bus from Mekele bus station to Wukro (15 ETB / 0.5 USD per person; 48 km) and then take a tuk tuk to the base. The lodge is a five-minute plod uphill.

Domestic flights are the fastest way to travel in Ethiopia (check the latest routes here). It is much cheaper to book flights at an Ethiopian Airlines office in the country. Be sure to mention if you flew internationally with them as you will be eligible for a significant discount.

Addis Ababa is the country's main international airport. Book international flights via skyscanner.net.

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Lonely Planet Ethiopia is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled. If you prefer to travel in a tour, we recommend G Adventures and their small group Ethiopia tours.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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