Visit to Kolmanskop, the ghost town in the Namib Desert

Visit to Kolmanskop, the ghost town in the Namib Desert

Kolmanskop, once a booming diamond city, has long been abandoned to desert sands. We took a trip to see his scary scenes

Our trip to Namibia was a long time coming. Almost two years ago we published a list of the countries we most want to see. Namibia was at the top of Peter's list, but due to family circumstances we postponed the trip until we could commit a reasonable amount of time. Finally, at the end of this year, we made it to Windhoek to start a 17 day self-drive safari.

Our first stop together was Kolmanskop, an eerie ghost town 15 km east of the port city of Lüderitz.

alt=“Kia walks past a dilapidated building in the ghost town of Kolmanskop”>Atlas & BootsKia walks past a dilapidated building in the ghost town of Kolmanskop

Kolmanskop began in 1908 as a modest railway station between Lüderitz and Keetmanshoop further east. Apparently the station was named after the transport worker Johnny Coleman - or rather Jani Kolman - who left his ox wagon here in a sandstorm and died of thirst as a result. The inauspicious beginnings were perhaps an omen of the city's wildly changing fortunes.

In 1908, railroad worker Zacharias Lewala found a diamond while shoveling drifting sand from the tracks and dutifully brought it to his superior, German railroad inspector August S Tauch, who had instructed his workers to look for shiny stones.

alt="Kolmanskop was once a prosperous city with wealthy residents">Atlas & BootsKolmanskop was once a thriving city with wealthy residents

A diamond rush followed the discovery, and German authorities soon established the “Sperrgebiet,” a 26,000-square-kilometer “forbidden zone” that cannot be visited without permission. Today the area is jointly operated by the De Beers diamond company and the Namibian government.

Kolmanskop in the boom time

German settlers enjoyed enormous wealth and Kolmanskop became a booming diamond city. Residents were supported not only by basic amenities such as a hospital, school, and power plant, but also by a ballroom, bowling alley, theater, gymnasium, casino, and ice cream factory.

alt=“Swallowed by the sand in the ghost town of Kolmanskop”>Atlas & BootsSwallowed by the sand in the ghost town of Kolmanskop

Kolmanskop reportedly had the first tram in Africa as well as the first X-ray station in the Southern Hemisphere, which served as a means of controlling workers who might attempt to smuggle out their findings.

Fresh water was brought in by rail from 120 km away and pumped into storage tanks. It is said that the city flourished with lush gardens, manicured lawns, rose beds and eucalyptus trees.

alt="Four Doors to Nowhere">Atlas & BootsFour doors to nowhere

Pets were hard to keep in the heat, but one family had an ostrich that terrorized residents and only redeemed itself at Christmas by dragging Santa Claus across the sand in a sleigh.

Before World War I, the Kolmanskop mines produced over 1,000 kilograms of diamonds. In other words, five million carats of diamonds were mined in the first six years of mining.

Given Kolmanskop's relatively small population - 1,300 at its peak - the city briefly had the highest per capita wealth in the world.

Kolmanskop in the bust time

Kolmanskop began to decline after World War II when the diamond field began to be exhausted. Another factor was the discovery of diamonds in 1928 270 km south of Kolmanskop, near the Orange River - the richest diamond-bearing deposits ever known.

The new diamond field merely required scouting of the beaches, as opposed to more difficult mining, and the residents of Kolmanskop joined the rush south, leaving their homes and belongings behind.

The city was finally abandoned in 1956. In less than 50 years the city lived, flourished and died.

Kolmanskop today

Today, Kolmanskop forms an eerie tableau of large structures randomly swallowed by the desert sand. An oppressive silence is broken only by a patient wind that works to bury this once glorious city.

alt="Hardly any signs of life in the ghost town of Kolmanskop">Atlas & BootsHardly any signs of life in the ghost town of Kolmanskop

Signs of life from past and present are scattered across the site: a rusting bathtub peeking out of the sand, a utility pole unconnected to anything, a parched desert shrub clinging to life. This feels like the beginning and the end of nowhere.

We padded across the sand, our voices quiet, as if we didn't want to disturb what lay beneath. We entered cavernous rooms, waist-deep in sand, squinting under rays of sunlight cut by slats.

alt="Self-drive safari through Namibia Komnaskop">Atlas & BootsSunrays shine through wooden slats

In Kolmanskop the elements are in control. Once sturdy roofs are now stripped and sparse, while wooden steps creak ominously beneath the tread. Glass hangs loosely on ornate frames and doors pull askew on weak hinges.

Kolmanskop is a testament to man's greed and also his whims. Hundreds flocked here for diamonds and hundreds left here for diamonds. It seems only right that the desert should reclaim it.

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• alt=“Sperrgebiet bei Kolmanskop“>
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• alt=“Kia in Kolmanskop“>
• alt=“Innenaufnahme von Kolmanskop“>
• alt=“Fensterrahmen in der Geisterstadt Kolmanskop in Namibia“>
• alt=“Schatten, die von Sonnenstrahlen in Kolmanskop geworfen werden“>
• alt=“Sonnenstrahlen am Kolmanskop“>

Atlas & Boots

Visit to Kolmanskop: the essentials

What: Visit Kolmanskop, Namibia as part of a 17-day self-drive safari with Wild Dog Safaris.

Where: Accommodation on the tour includes 16 nights in a range of hotels, lodges and safari camps, including Klein-Aus Vista, 112km (1h 10m drive) from Kolmanskop.

The tour can be booked as either accommodation (like we did), camping or a combination of both. Breakfast and several dinners are included in the overnight option; Camping is largely self-catering.

When: The best time to travel to Namibia is May-October during the dry season (winter). There is less vegetation and wildlife tends to congregate around waterholes, making them easier to spot. However, this is also peak season so it may be necessary to book months in advance.

The low seasons of May and November are good for cheaper accommodation with higher availability. Heavy rains can occur in November, although mainly in short, intense bursts.

How: Kolmanskop entrance fee and permit is 90 NAD (6.5 USD) per person. Some guidelines say you need to buy an entry permit in Lüderitz beforehand, but we bought ours upon entry (Nov 2018).

Kolmanskop is open daily from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Guided tours take place Mon-Sat at 9:30 a.m. and 11 a.m. and Sun at 10 a.m. We recommend exploring the site yourself to get a sense of true seclusion. Take time to visit the small museum, which contains fascinating stories about the various ways workers tried to smuggle out diamonds.

Kolmanskop is a 15-minute drive from the port city of Lüderitz, just off the main B4 motorway. We drove from Klein-Aus Vista (112km, 1h 10m drive) as part of our self-drive safari. Wild Dog Safaris will book accommodation, provide a rental car and organize an itinerary for the trip.

Driving in Namibia is fairly easy and relaxing, although four-wheel drive is essential. Outside the larger cities, traffic is light, although road conditions vary widely. Side roads are paved and easy to navigate, but fairly rare. C and D roads are gravel roads that are more common and vary widely in condition. Expect everything from smooth, comfortable and relatively fast gravel roads to undulating, uncomfortable and frustratingly slow dirt roads. Make sure you have a spare tire and know who to contact in an emergency.

Upon arrival in Windhoek we were welcomed by Wild Dog Safaris who provided us with a detailed itinerary, driving directions, maps and information as well as some tips for visiting Kolmanskop and other destinations.

We flew to Namibia with British Airways via Johannesburg in South Africa. Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

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Lonely Planet Botswana & Namibia is a comprehensive travel guide to Namibia and includes some useful tips for visiting Kolmanskop.

Disclosure: We traveled to Namibia with the support of Wild Dog Safaris. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

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