Traditional practices of Sasak coffee making in Ampenan, Lombok

Traditional practices of Sasak coffee making in Ampenan, Lombok

Today, coffee is the most consumed beverage in the world. It is estimated that over 400 billion cups of coffee are consumed each year. Considering that Earth is home to approximately 7.7 billion people in 2019, it's fair to say that the coffee tree has done very well so far in terms of evolutionary dominance.

But how could a fruit-bearing tree so successfully intertwine its evolutionary survival with ours? Coffee shares a similar story with many of our other photosynthetic partners. Our demand for the fruit leads us to plant and protect their offspring at all costs, often to the detriment of their less fortunate cousins.

However, that doesn't answer the question of how coffee became so powerful. The answer is that it clings to more than just our short-lived desire for a dark roast espresso—it has woven itself into our cultural web.

In the West, our changing coffee culture has given rise to newfangled concoctions that are a far cry from our ancestral roots of coffee drinking. While a sugar-free caramel latte from Starbucks would make most traditionalists cringe, these examples offer a stark insight into the melting pot of Western culture.

To explore the relationship between coffee and people more deeply and to try to simplify the relationship between coffee and people, we need to look at a place where coffee consumption is much more like the days of old. One of these places is Lombok. Located in the equatorial archipelago of Indonesia, coffee is much more of a traditional element of daily human life here.
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Indonesian coffee

Currently, Indonesia is the fourth largest coffee producer in the world. You may have heard the term “Java” used as a pseudonym for coffee blends. This name comes from the Dutch colonial period, when the Dutch East India Company planted and exported coffee from Java, now the world's most populous island.

By delivering the infectious drink to Java, the Dutch set in motion a rousing wave that once again made its way through ancient cultures and customs throughout the archipelago.

Although historically delayed, especially in contrast to Africa and the Middle East, coffee in Indonesia today is considered Indonesian as Nasi Goreng. In Indonesia, however, coffee has again spread more deeply, with different flavors, preparation methods and coffee customs becoming unique to individual islands and their peoples.
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The Sasak people of Lombok

The Sasak of Lombok are a testament to the perseverance of the indigenous people. While many indigenous people in Asia and around the world have experienced segregation, today the Sasak still make up a strong majority of 85 percent of Lombok's residents.

However, this is not to say that Lombok locals have not experienced historical hardships. Imperial Western influence has borne the burden of several decades of foreign occupation by both the Dutch and later the Japanese.

Although history has not played well, traditional Sasak culture, from lively celebrations to traditional clothing and food, has remained steadfast. Perhaps that's why many locals prefer traditional means over corporate Western ideals, even when it comes to something as simple as a cup of coffee.

One such example of tradition is the inspiring story of Mamiq and his son Gunter.
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Traditional Lombok coffee

Mamiq, also known as “Henry,” shares an inspiring story of local entrepreneurship. Growing up in Ampenan, the old port capital of Lombok, he had to make ends meet from a young age.

Mamiq's father was a tobacco seller who had created a unique spice blend that he sold to local Chinese businessmen and Dutch soldiers in the busy port streets of the then central capital. Ampenan. One day, with childlike curiosity, Mamiq decided to test his father's special blend of spices in a cup of local Lombok coffee.

He remembers that first sip as a significant moment in his life. He was immediately determined to offer his new invention to his family and friends, and after seeing their surprised nods of approval, Mamiq's entrepreneurial spark set out on a mission to spread his creation to the world.

Mamiq pulled out his handmade wooden stool and bench and set out the next morning to sell cups of his spiced coffee. He waited, but the first attempt was unsuccessful. However, as we in the West well know, the wall of hesitation towards the unknown requires a little creative marketing nudge to come down.

The next morning, dissatisfied but unshakable, Mamiq collected a piece of scrap wood and scribbled before heading out to try again. “Free coffee.”

It was a hit.

From that day on, Mamiq’s “Kopi Rachick” was born. To this day, his spicy twist on traditional Lombok coffee remains popular with villagers and politicians alike.
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The traditional coffee making process

The Sasak of Lombok are very proud of their variety, which they unanimously refer to simply as “Lombok Kopi”. Grown on the volcanic slopes of Mt. Rinjani in Lombok, these unique beans are called “Robusta,” a variety that is particularly resistant to disease and known for its high caffeine content.

Just as Mamiq's special spice blend has remained unchanged for generations, so has the roasting and preparation of the coffee. The importance of tradition and culture in craftsmanship is clear from the start.

From the beginning, the methods of making coffee follow the old traditions. Freshly picked from Rinjani, raw beans are mixed with fine sand in a large metal wok heated by a wood fire in the village barn. The roaster stirs the beans meticulously, ensuring a well-rounded and smoky roast.

Once they are steaming and shiny, the roaster separates the sand from the beans using a large wooden sieve. After cooling, the roasted beans are then ground into a fine powder in a traditional stone mortar and pestle.

Finally, Mamiq adds his secret spices, which he would never reveal the entire recipe. Although he is a firm believer in herbal medicine and traditional healing methods, he points to some spices that are now proven to have tangible health benefits. He claims that this has always been ancient knowledge, long before the findings of modern science. To this day, he swears by his coffee, which helped him never have to see a Western doctor.
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Kopi Rachick is not a global brand or a multi-million dollar company. His success lies in a more modest achievement. Mamiq and his son Gunter share their coffee every day with regular guests and passers-by at their family-run food stall.

People of all races, cultures and religions are drawn to its humble warung not for a quick dose of caffeine, but for a warm welcome and to share stories. In Mamiq's warung, the powerful and the poor are equal. Here, police and politicians share the same plastic stools and drink the same glass cups as the villagers.

Culture in the cup

They say life begins after coffee. Wall Street professionals, Israeli soldiers, Nordic fishermen, Mexican farmers, extremist jihadists, climate strikers and Australian farmers all start their day with a cup of coffee. From a macro perspective; If we truly zoom out and view humanity through a global lens, it would be difficult for us to identify a more unified, centripetal human quality, despite the overwhelming individual differences.

Perhaps these seemingly novel but deeply rooted folklores and customs that we all experience can be the building blocks to overcome our differences. But maybe we just need a little local seasoning to fill the gap.

Kopi Lombok video

Below is a short video that tells the story of Mamiq's coffee. Today, the future of Kopi Rachick remains strong through the next generation; Gunter, continuing to expand on his father's legacy of making great spiced coffee.

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Are you interested in a trip to Lombok? Don't miss my full list of things to do in the Lombok guide.

We’re looking for more – an introduction

If you are a regular reader of We Seek Travel, you may have noticed that this article differs significantly in both content and writing style.

While travel is a deep passion and the supporting foundation of this blog, I have long been an admirer of independent journalism and cultural storytelling. To be honest, unique insights into cultural, historical and earthly narratives of people and planets inspire greater fascination for me as a writer and photographer.

For this reason, I have decided to create a branch of We Seek Travel dedicated to articles that take a more journalistic approach in thought and purpose. Under the title We Seek More, I attempt to evoke in the reader's mind a deeper understanding of humanity through scattered but interconnected stories.

Additionally, We Seek More will be home to another fascination that I share with many; striving to overcome physical trials through self-imposed challenges. To gain more insight into these unfortunate endeavors, I hope to delve deeper into the world through both the stories of others and my own challenges.
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