Medellin: Why you should visit the ex-murder capital of the world

Medellin: Why you should visit the ex-murder capital of the world

In 1991, there were 17 murders every day in Medellin, Colombia, making it the murder capital of the world. Medellin, the hunting ground of notorious drug lord Pablo Escobar, was rife with violent crime and corruption.

You can understand why my family was worried when I told them I would be spending a week there. As if a month in Colombia wasn't enough to make my mother's heart pound, I was now visiting what was once the most dangerous city in the world.

Of course, “was” is the operative word here. Since the days of Escobar, Medellin has been experiencing a renaissance. From engaging art in Botero Plaza to trendy cafes on El Poblado, Medellin has become a vibrant, thriving city with interesting culture and a colorful history.

At the heart of its resurgence is a fairly prosaic catalyst: the city's sophisticated and efficient subway system. Opened in 1995, it has become the heartbeat of the city, offering residents a gateway to better jobs, interesting social activities and an overall higher quality of life.

To the outsider there is little doubt that the city has thrived post-Escobar, and yet its most notorious son divides opinion. Every resident of a certain age has an opinion about Escobar. He left such an indelible mark on the city's legacy that, more than 20 years after his death, his legacy is still discussed on the corners and in the cafes of Medellin's streets.

Some paisas (Medellin natives) see Escobar as a bold antihero who subverts authority in his attempt to build the world's most powerful drug empire. Certainly, there is something seductive about rebellion and the willful disregard of rules, as films like The Godfather, in which the audience follows the trail of unscrupulous villains, prove so deliciously.

alt=”Escobar once said: “I would rather have a grave in Colombia than a prison cell in the USA.””>Atlas & BootsEscobar once said, “I would rather have a grave in Colombia than a prison cell in the United States.”

Escobar's already legendary status is only burnished by the fact that he bought homes for entire communities when home ownership was just a dream for most Colombians. Even more brazenly, he is said to have offered to pay off Colombia's $10 billion national debt to escape the crosshairs of the judiciary. His greatest fear was extradition to the United States and his most famous quote: “I would rather have a grave in Colombia than a prison cell in the United States.”

Of course, the Godfather-cum-Robin Hood figure is only one side of the story. Some argue that Escobar is the worst thing that happened to the city. At the height of his rule, over 120 Colombians were murdered every week and up to 15 tons of cocaine were smuggled through his country's veins every day. Escobar bled his country dry to live like a king, his critics claim. It is said that he had little regard for human life and only worshiped money. Even in prison, he lived a life of indulgence, bribing guards to build his own luxurious private prison.

Escobar was gunned down by police in 1993 and appears to have few regrets for his crimes. Those affected by his cartel refuse to say his name out loud, instead referring to him as “Colombia’s most famous criminal.” Hernán, our guide on the Medellin Walking Tour, told us that this is done partly out of fear of public reprisal: "If you say his name to a tourist, some paisas may think you are praising him and be angry with you, others may think you are criticizing him... and be angry with you."

Both camps, as divided as they are, are united in one pursuit: their desire to show that their city is now safe, thriving and cosmopolitan–not because of blood money, but because of innovative plans from inspired leaders. If Medellin can recover, Colombia can recover too, is the message.

old=““>Atlas & BootsBotero's Birds: A deformed sculpture stands next to a newer, perfectly formed counterpart depicting the two stories of Medellin

Hernán ended the tour with moving words: "Your parents, your friends told you not to come to Colombia, but you did. Everyone who comes to Medellin, to Colombia, helps. They are part of our history. They are part of changing history. Thank you very much."

Medellin walking tour: realcitytours.com, free, but a tip of $10 per person is recommendedPablo Escobar Tour: medellincityservices.com, $40 per person

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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