10 quirky things to do in Buenos Aires

10 quirky things to do in Buenos Aires

After several weeks in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego at the southern reaches of the inhabited world, we were really looking forward to thawing out in Buenos Aires, the “Paris of South America”. We arrived in the bohemian district of San Telmo an hour early and stood on a street corner wondering where to go to await our host and the keys to our lovely apartment.

We saw a Starbucks sign gleaming enticingly in the corner and trudged toward it, the backpacks on our shoulders growing weary. Unfortunately, just as we arrived, Starbucks' shutters came down and the staff closed the store for the evening.

Our second option was across the street: Bar Plaza Dorrego, a traditional bar and cafe. With its monochrome floors, antique bottles, dusty artifacts, and old wooden furniture, Bar Dorrego was much more charming than any Starbucks we had ever visited. In many ways, this was a metaphor for Buenos Aires itself: new versus old, speed versus slow, familiarity versus discovery. It reminded us to make less obvious choices and look for out-of-the-ordinary options. To encourage our readers to do the same, we list 10 quirky things to do in Buenos Aires alongside a more popular “Starbucks” alternative.

1. El Ateneo Grand Splendid Bookstore

Starbucks Option: Boutique Shopping in Palermo Soho

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This majestic building was built in 1919 as a performing arts theater and is now one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. It retains many of its original features - ornate carvings, crimson stage curtains and ceiling frescoes - and through them the elegance and grandeur of days long gone. Readers gather in comfortable chairs scattered throughout the store, while the stage is used as a reading area and café. Most attractive are the rounded balconies, now used as tiny reading rooms.

yenny-elateneo.com

2. Fine dining in secret

Starbucks option: Fine dining at Taquino

The uninitiated will find plenty of fine steaks on the streets of Buenos Aires, but dig deeper and you'll find "closed" restaurants offering some of the best food in the city. These secret restaurants are often run by top chefs in people's homes who want to share their skills with true foodies in a more intimate setting. Ask a local for a recommendation or try Casa Felix, which offers a range of delicious dishes from their own garden.

collectivofelix.com

3. The unique spectacle of Fuerza Bruta

Starbucks option: A milonga tango show

old=““>Khairul Nizam/Creative Commons

Fuerza Bruta, translated as Brute Force, is something like Cirque du Soleil on drugs. The “aerial and techno extravaganza” is an assault on the senses with gigantic images, pounding drums, frantic lighting and more dry ice than a Bonnie Tyler concert. The audience stands under a cellophane-like capsule while the performers tumble, sway and slide above their heads. Every now and then a hole opens in the capsule and a performer falls down and throws an audience member into the air. It's not for everyone, but if you're up for a surreal, spooky, genre-bending night, you won't be disappointed.

fuerzabruta.com.ar

4. The men's tour

Starbucks option: Football match at La Bombonera Stadium

If you're on a boys' vacation in Buenos Aires (or practicing step 4 of traveling as a couple), consider the Man Tour, which shows you the city with a twist. The tour stops at a number of classic locations and includes a hot towel shave in a traditional barbershop, refreshments and cocktails, a Cuban cigar, delicious empanadas and a refreshing beer. It's not all fun, however: each stop is connected to Argentine history, focusing on the late 18th and early 19th centuries, offering a unique experience for the darker sex.

Landingpadba.com

5. GrinGo! entertainment show

Starbucks option: A visit to the Teatro Colon

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GrinGo! was founded in 2011. has refined its offering and is now one of the best comedy nights in Buenos Aires. The show features around four comedians per night – three regulars and one guest – and hosts a mix of Argentinians and expats. Much of the comedy focuses on culture clashes, as expected, but still provides a hilarious evening.

facebook.com/gringostandup

6. ParRilla Tour

Starbucks option: Steak at Don Julio

A question that is causing debate throughout the city: Where can you get the best steak? The Parrilla Tour aims to answer this question with its 2.5-hour stroll through the best parrillas in the city. The tour stops at a number of hand-picked locations in San Telmo or Palermo, offering treats for meat lovers. Over the course of the tour, you'll eat enough for a full meal and learn about the neighborhood and parrilla culture of Buenos Aires.

www.parillatour.com

7. Cooking with Teresa

Starbucks option: Coffee at La Biela

Unfortunately we never made it to Teresita, but our hostess insists she makes the best empanadas you'll ever have. Teresita and her husband Raul welcome guests into their kitchen for a one-hour cooking class where you'll learn to make the aforementioned empanadas. Classes are punctuated with local wines and guests are invited to enjoy Teresita's charming backyard. The class is out of town, but we hear it's worth the trip there.

try2cook.com

8. Street Art Tour

Starbucks Option: Free Buenos Aires Walking Tour

The Buenos Aires Street Art Tour takes visitors through neighborhoods you might not otherwise see. With the largest murals in Buenos Aires on the agenda, you'll see entire streets full of giant works of art by international and local artists. The 2.5-hour tour begins in Colegiales and ends in Palermo, stopping along the way to sample delicious empanadas.

www.buenosairesstreetart.com

9. Cocktails at Verne's

Starbucks option: Cocktails at Sky Bar

Reportedly named after famous author Jules Verne, this Palermo dive bar is distinctly Mad Men-esque in its decor. Fancy cocktails are concocted by experienced staff (we refuse to use the word "mixologists"), while the unpretentious menu offers a selection of savory snacks (think gourmet hot dogs). Don't be put off by the large selection of drinks. The friendly staff will be more than happy to make a recommendation for the uneducated.

www.vernecocktailclub.com

10. Horse riding adventures

Starbucks option: Walk through the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur

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If you’re keen to venture beyond the city limits, David’s Argentina Horse Adventures offers a fantastic day trip. David has a lifetime of experience with horses, including as a show jumper, trainer, racehorse owner and breeder. His 2-hour Countryside Horse Riding Option is aimed at all levels of riders and takes place on the edge of the Rio del Plata River. More experienced riders can book advanced excursions. Either way, you will have a lovely day full of real Buenos Aires.

argentinahorseadventures.com

The essentials

What: A stay in Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina.

Where: We stayed in a beautiful apartment in the middle of the bohemian district of San Telmo. We found 'The Balcony' through San Telmo Loft, a group of quirky abodes handpicked by a small team of experts. Just seconds from the famous Plaza Dorrego, our apartment provided a great base to reach the city's main (and smaller) attractions. With modern amenities sorely missed (kitchen! washing machine! WiFi!), it was a great way to reboot after the extremes of Ushuaia. Visit the website or email santelmoloft@gmail.com for bookings.

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When: Buenos Aires is ideal in autumn (March to May) and spring (September to November). Summer can be hot and humid while winter can be cloudy, cool and rainy. October and November are great months to visit when the city's jacaranda trees are in full bloom.

How: Buenos Aires is easily accessible by air from international, continental and domestic destinations (book via skyscanner.net). Domestic bus routes also run between Buenos Aires and larger cities such as Salta, Mendoza and Córdoba. For schedules, visit omnilineas.com.

Find out more with the Lonely Planet travel guide to Argentina.

Mission statement: Dreamstime

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