Visit to the Salar de Uyuni salt pans in Bolivia

Visit to the Salar de Uyuni salt pans in Bolivia

Amid freezing showers, a series of depressing breakfasts, dizzying heights and endless bus rides, a visit to the Salar de Uyuni saves the day

After four months in South America came Bolivia, the continent's biggest test yet but brightest triumph. After 10 countries and thousands of kilometers, it was the first place that made me utter those words that cannot be unspoken: I want to go home.

Maybe it was the freezing cold showers on Isla Del Sol or the lack of water on Copacabana. Maybe it was the continuous series of depressing breakfasts or over-cheesy dinners that were bland-on-bland. Maybe it was the 3,600 meters of altitude that took my breath away or the endless bus rides that made me tired. Anyway, Bolivia and I didn't get along.

Visit to the Salar de Uyuni

And then, as simple as giving in to Stockholm Syndrome, I was converted. It only took a day and there I was with dreamy eyes and a smile, singing gospel about the beauty of Bolivia. It was of course the visit to Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia's famous salt flats, that won my affection.

We debated whether to do a 1, 2 or 3 day tour and ultimately decided on just one. The day began with a 10:30am pickup from the Oasis Bolivia offices in Uyuni. Joined by five other tourists in a spacious 4×4, we headed to the Train Cemetery, a stretch of desert land occupied by a series of old mining trains stationary on a railway line.

The railway was built in 1892 and was used to transport minerals, but fell into disrepair when the mining industry collapsed in 1940, due in part to mineral depletion. Many trains were abandoned in the area and remain there today, giving way to rust and erosion.

alt=““>Sharing a hug on the Salar de Uyuni salt flats

After the Train Cemetery, we stopped briefly at Colchani, a gate town full of handicrafts carved from salt, and then headed to the main attraction. Salar de Uyuni is the largest salt pan in the world, spanning 10,582 square kilometers and containing an estimated 10 billion tons of salt.

The plains were formed from what was originally Lake Minchin, a huge prehistoric lake. The lake largely evaporated under the scorching Andean sun, leaving behind a thick salt crust - what we now know as the Salar de Uyuni salt flats.

The result is stunning, breathtaking, every superlative I can throw at you. Miles and miles of pure white terrain are almost blinding in their beauty. The apartments provide the perfect backdrop for every photographer. Of course, we took the opportunity to take a silly photo or two.

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• alt=“Wet Salar de Uyuni, einer der besten Roadtrips der Welt“>
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• alt=“Kia blickt auf den nassen Salar de Uyuni“>
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After a simple but delicious lunch on Isla Incahuasi, an island with huge cacti, we drove further into the plain to a completely isolated location. Here we had the opportunity to take as many pictures and as many videos as we wanted.

Best of both worlds

We had considered whether we should come in the dry or rainy season. The rainy season offers a unique opportunity to see the plains with a film of water on them, creating a huge mirror of the sky. Luckily our visit in April meant we were able to see the flats both dry and wet. The effect is surreal and extraordinary, undoubtedly one of the highlights of our trip so far.

In summary, Bolivia was worth the pain. After all, home can wait.

Visiting the Salar de Uyuni: The essentials

What: Visit the Salar de Uyuni salt flat as well as the train cemetery, the gate town of Colchani, the cactus island of Isla Incahuasi, the Salar de Uyuni, a salt hotel and the sunset at the Wet Flats. The day starts at 10:30 a.m., ends at 7:30 p.m. and includes lunch.

Where: Salar de Uyuni, Potosi, Bolivia. We stayed at Cilos Hotel, a comfortable but simple place 10 minutes walk from town. It had nice hot showers, decent WiFi in public areas with breakfast included. Be warned that the town of Uyuni is pretty desolate, so the walk isn't the prettiest you'll ever do.

When: The best time to visit the Salar de Uyuni depends on the experience you want. For the best climate, visit between July and October. If you want to see the Wet Flats, visit between March and April.

How: Fly into La Paz International Airport (book via skyscanner.net) and take a bus to Uyuni. We made the 14-hour trip with Trans Omar in a relatively comfortable double-decker bus.

Tickets can be purchased at the Terminal de Buses (around $35 per person) or most likely through your hostel. Email tickets@transomar.com for more information. It is also possible to tour the apartments of San Pedro de Atacama in Chile, but is often more expensive. You can book the salt flats tour with a local agency in both locations.

However, we recommend using Bookaway to find bus, ferry and train tickets in Bolivia. Book buses to Uyuni here.

We visited Oasis Bolivia and had a great day. They have offices in Uyuni (Av. Ferroviaria, next to Hotel Julia, uyuni@oasisbolivia.com), La Paz (Calle Sagarnaga No. 363, Of.2, lapaz@oasisbolivia.com) and Sucre (Calle Aniceto No. 95, Of.2, sucre@oasisbolivia.com). I

If you do not speak Spanish, you should indicate that you would like an English-speaking guide.

Finally, note that the food situation in Uyuni is not that great, but we recommend Minuteman Pizza at Toñito Hotel, the best we had on the continent!

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Lonely Planet Bolivia contains a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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