Things to do on Bonaire: our 12 best tips

Things to do on Bonaire: our 12 best tips

We explore the best things to do on Bonaire, from pink lakes to secluded beaches and world-class diving and snorkeling

Bonaire, a Dutch municipality in the Leeward Antilles of the Caribbean Sea, is known for its rich marine life, exceptional diving sites and interior desert landscape.

Bonaire is surrounded by a fine coral reef just meters from the shore, making it a snorkeler's dream. The reef is a designated national marine park and is easily accessed via numerous entry points clearly marked along the shore.

We had already planned two dives on our Caribbean cruise: a surreal swim between plane wrecks in Aruba and an exhilarating wall dive in the Turks and Caicos Islands.

So when we were planning our precious few hours on Bonaire, we thought it would be nice to spend some time on solid ground and see the island for ourselves. We rented a car from Voyager Bonaire and set off to explore.

The island is easy to navigate and small enough to cover the main attractions in a single day. These are spread roughly equally between the north and south of the island, with a handy historic village half way - a good spot for a lunch break.

Things to do in Bonaire

We started in the south of the island, where Kralendijk, the capital, is located, along with the port and car rental, and followed a figure-eight route around the south and then the north of the island. Note: Drive the northern tour clockwise - see map below for details.

1. Salt pans (Zoutpannen)

Atlas & BootsSalt piles in Bonaire

The south of the island is flatter, the horizon only disturbed by huge piles of brilliant white salt. The huge salt pans are home to a number of salt pans. Ocean water sits here before evaporating, leaving a salty residue that turns the water pink.

2. Slave cabins

Atlas & BootsThe huts once served as housing for slaves

Further down the rocky shore lie evidence of the island's dark past: two groups of tiny stone huts that housed slaves in the 19th century. The slaves worked in the salt mines and slept in the cabins during the work week. On weekends they walked 7-10 hours to their permanent home in Rincon in the north of the island.

3. Flamingo Reserve

Atlas & BootsFlamingos can be seen on Bonaire

The Flamingo Reserve and all flamingos on Bonaire are protected by law and it is strictly forbidden to enter the reserve. Fortunately, it is possible to stop at several locations along the south coast and view the herds from the side of the road. Binoculars or a zoom lens come in handy for getting the best views.

4. Willemstoren lighthouse

Atlas & BootsWillemstoren lighthouse

Bonaire's first lighthouse was built in 1837 and stands like a watchtower at the southern tip of the island. The lighthouse is closed to the public but is still a worthy photo stop. Perhaps more fascinating are the cairns surrounding the lighthouse, built by locals from rocks, coral and other items washed ashore.

5. Sorobon Beach

Atlas & BootsSorobon Beach is known for its windsurfing

Sorobon Beach, located on idyllic Lac Bay, is home to one of the world's leading windsurfing destinations. Thanks to the steady trade winds and shallow waters of the large inland bay, dozens of colorful sails line the horizon.

If windsurfing is not of interest, fine sandy beaches and beach bars are the best place to entertain.

6. Seru Largu Viewpoint

Seru Largu is Bonaire's best viewing point

In the north of the island, Seru Largu literally translates to “big hill,” which is exactly what it is. At 120 m, it is not the highest point on the island, but its central location makes it the best viewing point on Bonaire. The view to the south and over Kralendijk is particularly impressive.

At the top is a monument with the inscription “Kristu Ayera Awe Semper,” which means “Christ, yesterday, today and forever” in Papiamentu, a Creole language spoken in the Dutch Caribbean.

7. Rincon Village

Andy Troy/ShutterstockA church in the village of Rincon

Rincon is the oldest village on Bonaire and is conveniently located about halfway along the tour of the main attractions, making it an ideal spot for a lunch break.

The Spanish deliberately built the settlement inland at the beginning of the 16th century to protect it from pirates. The colorful village has two churches as well as a number of historic buildings, shops and restaurants.

8. Goto Lake (Gotomeer)

The large inland saltwater lagoon of Gotomeer is another good place to spot flamingos. Flocks of birds can be found here, especially during the breeding season from January to June. There are few places to stop along the narrow road, so drive slowly to avoid missing them.

Joke van Eeghem/ShutterstockGotomer on Bonaire

9. 1,000 steps

The best snorkeling on Bonaire can be found on the pebble beach at 1,000 Steps. It was our last stop of the day and when we got there we were a bit hot and bothered. Luckily, there aren't really 1,000 steps to contend with. It was so named by divers who had to climb up with their tanks, making the 67 steps feel more like 1,000.

Snorkeling in 1,000 steps

We had barely been in the water for a minute when we spotted a sea turtle and managed to observe it for a few minutes. We usually only get glimpses of turtles on dives, so it was nice to watch her for a while.

If you plan on snorkeling in Bonaire (and you really should), you should pack a full-face snorkel mask. We use and recommend Aria QR+ from Ocean Reef.

10. Washington-Slagbaai National Park

Gail Johnson/ShutterstockWashington-Slagbaai National Park

Located on the northern tip of Bonaire and covering almost 20% of its land area, WSNP includes two former rural plantations, Washington & Slagbaai. Ideally, you'll want to visit in a high-clearance off-road vehicle, as many of the roads are more like racetracks.

The desert-like landscape can be explored via two driving routes and two hiking trails. The sprawling landscape includes deserted beaches, salt ponds, mangrove forests, volcanic ridges, rugged coastlines and endless cacti sprouting from the rocky ground.

11. Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire

Atlas & BootsA sea turtle off the coast of Bonaire

Between May and November, visitors can join Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire staff as they conduct patrols on the island of Klein Bonaire, just off the mainland. Unfortunately we were not there on a Monday, Wednesday or Friday when the patrols take place, but we would have liked to have been there.

A patrol typically lasts between 3 and 5 hours and tickets cost $40 per person. Email cepa@bonaireturtles.org to make a reservation or call the office at (+599) 717 2225.

12. Bonaire Marine National Park

John A. Anderson/ShutterstockThe marine park surrounds the entire island

The Bonaire National Marine Park is the island's main attraction and covers the entire coast, including the small island of Klein Bonaire. Easily accessible just a few meters from the water, Bonaire's coral reef extends seaward to 300 m and to a depth of 60 m. Naturally, it is teeming with marine life.

Marine park protection is taken very seriously on Bonaire and divers are required to complete an orientation at a local dive shop to familiarize themselves with the park's rules and conditions. Diving and snorkeling sites are marked with yellow painted rocks.

Map of Bonaire

Voyager provided us with an easy-to-understand sightseeing map, but we also plotted the sights on a Google map to make navigation easier.

It is worth noting that the Queen's Highway coastal road north of 1,000 Steps is one-way only and cannot be traveled anti-clockwise. It is therefore best to drive the northern tour clockwise.

Things to do in Bonaire: the essentials

What: The best things to do in Bonaire.

Where: We visited Bonaire as part of an 11-day Carnival cruise from Charleston and stayed in a balcony stateroom aboard Carnival Sunshine. The room was spacious and comfortable, and the balcony was worth checking out. Our cabin attendant Aris was fantastic, as were the rest of the staff.

The ship itself is equipped with countless dining and entertainment options. For daytime dining we liked Blue Iguana Cantina and Pizzeria del Capitano. For dinner, we recommend paying the small extra charge to dine at least once at each of the specialty restaurants (Steakhouse, JiJi Asian Kitchen and Cucina del Capitano).

For lounging, head to Serenity Retreat (though note that you can still hear the fun and games from the main pool area). In the evening we go to the Piano Bar.

When: Bonaire is accessible all year round, but the best time to visit is between December and April as the weather is most favourable: hot, sunny and dry with low humidity and balmy nights.

How: We rented a car from Voyager Bonaire who have a fleet of cars and 4x4s to choose from. Prices start at $45 per day. Voyager also offers a range of tours, including combined itineraries, separate tours of the north and south of the island, trips to Washikemba and Washington-Slagbaai National Park, and private tours.

Reserve a car via their website, by email at info@voyagerbonaire.com or by phone at +599 789 1234 or +599 7004123 (mobile).

We booked our cruise directly with Carnival. Prices start at $1,579 per person for a balcony stateroom and include accommodation, all meals, a selection of non-alcoholic beverages and entertainment.

Shore excursions cost extra, as does onboard WiFi. The WiFi is surprisingly fast, but note that it only connects one device at a time. We packed our Keepgo International Wifi Hotspot to complement the onboard WiFi. The device generates a secure WiFi connection over local 4G mobile networks in over 120 countries. Use this referral link to get 10% off any Keepgo product.

We flew to Charleston via New York, but as of January 2020 there are direct flights from the UK. Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

Lonely Planet Caribbean Islands is a comprehensive travel guide to the region with everything you need to know for a safe and rewarding visit.

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