Dryer place on earth: Visiting the Atacama Desert in Chile

Dryer place on earth: Visiting the Atacama Desert in Chile

The Atacama desert is the driest place on earth and possibly the oldest desert in the world. We take a 30 km bike tour through the dramatic landscape

Our trip to Atacama was much more complicated than expected. Up to this point, the border crossings on our trip were relatively uncomplicated, so we were surprised that there was no direct way from Uyuni in Bolivia to Atacama in Chile.

Instead of taking a bus, we had to book a transfer of $ 50, spend a night in a room that looked almost just like a prison cell, took the transfer to the border, pay another $ 20 for entry to the national park and then take another transfer on the other side. All in all, a trip that can be covered in nine hours took about 24 hours.

When we arrived in San Pedro de Atacama, we summed up with joy. Finally, according to Bolivia's relentless cold and relentless height, we were now able to enjoy unbridled sunshine and warmth. Our driver turned to us and grinned. "Más Bajo, Más Caliente," he said. Indeed lower and hot.

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The Atacama desert is not only wonderfully low, hot and dry, it is even the driest place on earth. This 1,000 km (600 miles) long strips of land along the South American Pacific coast falls an average of about 15 mm (0.6 inches) per year (compared to 106 mm (4.2 inches) in Las Vegas).

In the central sector, periods of four years were registered without precipitation, and some weather stations have never been rain at all. Many of its mountains over 6,000 m are completely glacier -free, proof of the extreme dryness of the region. In addition, theories indicate that Atacama is the oldest desert in the world. Of course we had to look at that.

We settled in the Hotel Takha Takha Takha, a mid -range hotel with a pretty campsite shielded from trees. The city of San Pedro is small and charming with one -story clay houses, unpaved roads and a decent selection of cafes and restaurants. There is a large selection of tour operators, but we have decided to rent bicycles and drive alone.

On the first day we visited the Valle de la Muerte, which gave me time to practice cycling in the intense desert heat. (For those who don't know, I recently learned to ride.)

3 km from San Pedro, the Valle de la Muerte consists of fascinating red rock formations that are reminiscent of Turkey’s Cappadocia as well as a number of narrow gorges and 150 m high sand dunes. We spent the day cycling, climbing and watching, like sandboarders tried to stay upright while flew down the dunes.

The next day started with a debate: Can I get the 28 km back and forth return to Valle de la Luna and back? As I said in 15 crazy streets all over the world, Peter has seen me fall off the bike several times over the past six months and is always careful when I suggest that I drive beyond my skills.

We asked several locals to the valley and learned that a large part of it is flat, but began to wave inside the complex. We gave courage and decided to try it.

As feared, the street began to challenge me when we entered the actual complex. After an hour I had to say Peter that he should continue without me, because I couldn't stand the scorching heat and the steep climbs.

I tried to run after him, but it went very slowly. After about 30 minutes he returned breathlessly and exhausted. We decided to stop for our lunch package and then tackle a nearby cave.

I took my bicycle helmet with me; It served me well when I navigated through the tight places and low ceilings of the cave. After 15 minutes we appeared in a dramatic landscape that was not covered with snow, but with salt. We drank half a liter of water and while we baked there on a red rock in the middle of the earth, we did what we never thought possible: long for the cold of Bolivia.

dryest place on earth: The Essentials

Was: two nights in San Pedro de Atacama, the gateway to the Atacama desert, the driest place on earth. We rented bicycles and drove to Valle de la Muerte on the first day (free entry, 3 km from the city) and on the second day to Valle de la Luna (3 USD per person, 14 km from the city).

You can easily fill with other top sights here, including Salar de Atacama (Chile's largest salt pan), El Tatio Geysire (spitting hot water) and Lagunas Miscanti and Miñiques (shimmering basins with deep blue water, which are surrounded by white salt straps). ).

Where: San Pedro de Atacama. We stayed at the Hotel Takha Takha, which has a charming campsite with warm showers and ultras -women ($ 18 per person and night). The only drawback is the lack of access to the kitchen. We have resigned ourselves to thawing top noodles with hot water from the coffee machine at the reception.

When: Since this is the driest place on earth, the weather rarely changes from month to month. Visit the local festival for Holy Day or in July in June.

like: Oy Vey. If you come from Uyuni, it won't be easy. You can either take a transfer of USD 35 as described above (contains an overnight stay in a prison -like room, followed by an additional fee of $ 20 for entering the national park) or take a bus that avoids staying of one night and the fee. but drives off at four in the morning.

contact Cordillera Tours to book your place (near the Hotel Julia at Avenida Ferroviaria in Uyuni). Alternatively, you can fly from Santiago to Calama. Book flights via skyscanner.net.

from Calama you can book a bus (approx. 5 USD, try TUR BUS), take a shuttle (approx. 18 USD, try licancabur) or take a more expensive taxi (depending on the time between $ 25 and 35). The journey is 100 km long and takes about 90 minutes.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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