Visiting Easter Island: In the middle of nowhere

Visiting Easter Island: In the middle of nowhere

A visit to Easter Island is a special experience. It deserves a place among the seven wonders of the world, surpassing Christ the Redeemer and arguably others

I'll start with a bold statement: Visiting Easter Island deserves a place among the Seven Wonders of the World, surpassing Christ the Savior and probably one or two others.

The bottom line is that Kia and I have visited all seven wonders of the world and believe that visiting Easter Island deserves a place among humanity's greatest monuments. Out there in the middle of nowhere, it is often forgotten compared to mainstream monuments and structures.

But it shouldn't be forgotten and it really shouldn't be missed. For so many reasons, we left our hearts on Easter Island in the middle of the Pacific.

Our visit was eagerly awaited, especially since it came five months after our first planned trip. We had originally planned to fly from Tahiti to Chile in December, but due to extortionate airfares, an impromptu cruise, an unplanned road trip through the US, and a cheap ticket to Colombia, we ended up in Chile in May instead.

Our budget dwindled quickly, but there was no question about not going to Easter Island. It was a bucket list item that so many people never got the chance to do – how could we give up the opportunity?

And so, after a lot of scanning on Skyscanner, we booked a few cheap tickets to Hanga Roa, the “capital” of Easter Island.

When we arrived, Kia and I kept grinning at each other. “Can you believe we’re on Easter Island?” we asked further. For a boy from Norwich and a girl from Tower Hamlets, it was hard to believe that we had landed in one of the most remote and exclusive destinations in the world.

We hopped in a taxi to Chez Maria Goretti, a charming guesthouse we had booked for six nights. In Santiago, a backpacker named Ruth told us that five days was too long since the island was so small, but we wanted to make sure we saw everything. After all, the distance and budget meant we would probably never return to this special nowhere again.

alt="visit-easter-island-hanga-roa">

After settling in at Chez Maria Goretti, we decided to pay a quick visit to nearby Ko Te Riku. Instead of the unassuming site we expected, we came across several impressive statues (or “moai”) of wild horses roaming the fields below. It was our first taste of the miracles to come.

At 30km it is possible to cycle around the island, but as Kia had only recently learned to drive we decided to rent a car to get around instead. The next day we drove counterclockwise on the outer island road, stopping first at the main attraction of Rano Raraku.

Surprisingly, the site was almost empty with no more than 20 tourists roaming around the site. Compared to Machu Picchu or even Christ the Redeemer, it was an oasis of calm.

alt=“Visit-Easter-Island-Big-Dude”>“The Big Dude” at Rano Raraku

Visitors are greeted by the “Big Dude,” a huge and imposing Moai who stands guard at the entrance to the site.

Further on are dozens of iconic Moai as well as the famous Tukuturi, the most human-like of the Moai. We named it the ugly duckling of Easter Island.

alt="visit-easter-island-ugly-duckling">Tukuturi at Rano Raraku

One thing we noticed was that very few people visited the second section of the quarry itself (the left path at the fork). Although it was no longer possible to get close to the moai here, it was deeply humbling to see so many scattered across their birthplace.

alt="visit-easter-island-quarry">Moai scattered across Rano Raraku

After Rano Raraku we drove to Ahu Tongariki and its 15 impressive statues standing at attention against a bright blue sky. Here was the recording of National Geographic covers and Discovery Channel documentaries.

As we stood in the shadow of the Moai, we wondered how man could create such creatures without modern tools and equipment and then almost destroy themselves.

alt="visit-easter-island-ahu-tongariki">The iconic Ahu Tongariki

We used the rest of our stay to visit the main attractions of Anakena Beach, Maunga Terevaka and Ahu Tepeu, as well as the smaller attractions of Rano Kau and Orongo Ceremonial Village.

We also couldn't resist visiting the two major sights of Rano Raraku and Ahu Tongariki a second time. It's worth noting that Rano Raraku was much busier on our second visit (lunchtime rather than early morning), so it's worth planning two different visits to get the most out of the almost spiritual experience.

Secondly, it's worth taking the time to visit some of the island's smaller attractions (e.g. Ahu Tepeu). Many of them aren't listed as must-sees, but we wouldn't have liked to miss them.

In short, Ruth was wrong. There's more than enough to keep you busy for five days. After traveling so long to get there, why would you want to leave so quickly? Even if you forget for a moment the open-air museum, the turbulent history or the sheer isolation and remoteness of Easter Island, the breathtaking beauty of the place always remains.

• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=“besuch-osterinsel-ahu-tongariki“>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=“besuch-osterinsel-hässliches-entlein“>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>

Once as we were driving across the island, I turned to Kia and said it was so beautiful it weighed heavily on my heart. Deforestation on the island is having an unusual effect. Sometimes it almost feels like you're traveling through idyllic English countryside.

But then you look up at the clear blue sky, spot a white sand beach, a turquoise lagoon or swaying palm trees and realize that this might just be the island paradise you've always dreamed of.

Visiting Easter Island: The Essentials

What: Five days, six nights on Easter Island, one of the most remote communities on earth. The island is home to the Moai statues – one of the planet's greatest mysteries.

Where: We stayed at Hotel Chez Maria Goretti, a delightful guesthouse set in lush gardens in Easter Island's only settlement, Hanga Roa. The hotel features simple but comfortable rooms and a charming common area where guests can relax and unwind after a busy day.

• alt=“Besuch eines Hotels auf der Osterinsel“>
• alt=““>
• alt=“Besuch eines Hotels auf der Osterinsel“>
• alt=“Besuch eines Hotels auf der Osterinsel“>
• alt=“Besuch eines Hotels auf der Osterinsel“>
• alt=“Besuch eines Hotels auf der Osterinsel“>
• alt=“Besuch eines Hotels auf der Osterinsel“>
• alt=“Besuch eines Hotels auf der Osterinsel“>
• alt=“Besuch eines Hotels auf der Osterinsel“>

Breakfast (included in the price) is a grand affair with fresh and delicious cakes served alongside strong coffee and ripe fruits. Contact the hotel directly for the best prices: email info@chezmariagoretti.com or telephone 56-32-2100459.

When: Easter Island has a warm tropical climate all year round. There are cool sea breezes all year round, helping to keep the climate pleasant. However, if you visit Easter Island in summer (December to February), temperatures can rise above 27°C (81°F).

January to March is high season, which means higher prices and more visitors. In February there is the Tapati Rapa Nui Festival, which also draws the crowds. July to August can be slightly cooler, with average temperatures of 22 °C (72 °F), although brisk winds often make it seem even cooler.

The shoulder seasons, April to June and October to December, are great times to visit as the climate is temperate and prices are cheaper.

How: As I mentioned earlier, the island is remote. This is one of the reasons why it is such a sought-after travel destination. However, it makes visiting Easter Island a bit of a challenge. The only direct flights are from Tahiti in French Polynesia or Santiago on the Chilean mainland.

Essentially, you have a long connecting flight ahead of you if you're not already at these destinations. LAN is the only airline that flies to Easter Island. Their state-of-the-art fleet departs weekly from Tahiti (5.5 hours) or daily (except Tuesdays) from Santiago (6 hours). Book via skyscanner.net.

Otherwise, access to this remote island is only possible via a private yacht or cruise ship. But be warned, the island is hit by strong winds all year round, especially in summer.

The island itself is easy to navigate. The best way to see it is with a rental car from Aku Aku Turismo starting at $50 per day. You have a reliable armada of 4x4s, hatchbacks, scooters and quads to choose from.

There is only one town, Hanga Roa, on the island, so most accommodation, including the Hotel Chez Maria Goretti, is located there. There are two main routes to drive: the southeast and the west. The majority of the "postcard" sights line the longer southeastern circuit, but don't miss the smaller western sights either.

At the time of visiting Easter Island (May 2015), there was no entry fee due to a restructuring of the park's finances. Previously, the entrance fee to Rapa Nui National Park for all non-Chileans was $60. So if you visit Easter Island, you should expect to pay something similar.

old=““>

Lonely Planet Chile & Easter Island contains a comprehensive travel guide to Easter Island, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.
.