Test my limits on the Cotopaxi volcano

Test my limits on the Cotopaxi volcano

I knew it would be cold. I knew it would be difficult. What I didn't know is that I would give up after just 10 minutes at Cotopaxi Volcano. Our altitude of 4,500 m, mixed with unusually harsh weather, made every breath difficult, every step a struggle. As the wind hit my face, I closed my eyes and wondered, not for the first time, why I let Peter talk me into this. Glaciers were his thing. Trekking in the bitter cold was his hobby. I like adventure, sure, but not when it hurts so much. I prefer my adrenaline 10 degrees above freezing, thanks.

I tried to focus on the task at hand: one foot in front of the other. No matter the soaking wet gloves, no matter the constant rain - just keep one foot in front of the other. Peter was at the front, accompanied by a lively Scottish girl who was rock climbing at lunchtime. (I didn't mind...I was prettier.)

The middle of the pack was a group of weekend hikers who luckily struggled almost as much as I did. Bringing up the rear was another city girl. Instead of hiking boots, she wore sneakers - and paid the price dearly.

We trudged forward slowly, our heads pounding from above, our skin trembling with cold. After half an hour our refuge came into view. It seemed so close and yet it took so long to get there. Peter laughed when I told him later that I understood why mountaineers give up just a few meters from their summit. I was being dramatic, of course, but our progress was so slow that it took us an hour to climb a few hundred meters.

When we finally reached the refuge, our guide Henry put us all down and asked us to seriously consider whether we wanted to continue. The weather was unusually bad, he said, and it could be difficult to climb further. Part of me wanted to jump down happily, but part of me was disappointed. We had come this far, surely we could make it to the glacier?

After 10 minutes of uhming and ahing, and with the gentle encouragement of Peter and Sprightly Scottish Lass, we as a group decided to move on. We piled up our sodden layers again and headed out into the cold. My scarf got wet from my warm breath. I adjusted it, but in the end I only had a scarf that was wet from the rain. My fingers were numb in my wet gloves and the searing cold air seemed to rush through my nose straight into my brain. One foot in front of the other. One foot in front of the other and so it went up to 5,000m.

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When we finally reached the glacier, we caught our breath long enough to cheer. It had been a relatively short hike, but the sense of achievement was fantastic. I got an insight into why Peter loves climbing mountains (not that I'll be joining him again any time soon). We took a moment to take in the dramatic view and snap a few pictures of ourselves looking more than a little run down. And then the hard part was just over and we went back down.

Piling into the waiting car at the base was both a relief and a pain. Our dripping clothes and damp skin didn't make for a pleasant ride back to our hotel. Luckily, there was a roaring fire waiting for us in our cabana at The Secret Garden Cotopaxi. This gem of a lodge is the perfect place to explore Cotopaxi National Park. With stunning volcano views, a real log fire in the cabanas and common area, and a hot tub, this isn't your garden variety hostel.

Oh, and did I mention that homemade cakes, happy hour snacks and three meals a day are included in the room rate? I don't often rave about hostels (mainly because their clientele is full of hipster ukulele players who think they're oh-so-subversive for growing a beard), but The Secret Garden Cotopaxi stole a piece of my heart. Its unique location means you won't meet ukulele players as often as adventurous outdoorsy types, who are infinitely more interesting. Plus, as a city girl, I rarely had the pleasure of falling asleep to the sound of an open fire. After a tiring day it was the perfect night.

The essentials

What: Cotopaxi Volcano and Glacier Hike ($35 per person), 2.5 hours. A summit trek and other hikes of varying length and difficulty are available, as is an excellent horseback riding excursion - all bookable through The Secret Garden Cotopaxi. A private cabana there costs $96 per night and includes a private bathroom, open fire, unlimited hot drinks, three meals a day, homemade cakes, daily happy hour snacks, and hot tub access!

Where: Cotopaxi National Park, Ecuador – 56 km south of Quito.

When: According to Summitpost.org, Cotopaxi has the most clear days per year in the Ecuadorian Andes. Climbs can be attempted all year round. June and July are the driest months, but strong winds are not uncommon. December and January are almost as dry and much less windy.

How: If you stay at The Secret Garden Quito, you can get a transfer to Secret Garden Cotopaxi for just $5 per person. Email hola@secretgardenquito.com to arrange.

Fly to Quito International Airport (book via skyscanner.net).

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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