The Uros floating islands in Lake Titicaca, Peru

The Uros floating islands in Lake Titicaca, Peru

When we set out on this trip almost a year ago, I knew that there would be certain places, certain experiences that would leave me in awe. I knew I would be amazed at Machu Picchu, stand in awe of the giant statues of Easter Island, and gape at Perito Moreno in Argentina. What I didn't expect was to be similarly speechless on the Uros artificial floating islands in Lake Titicaca. In fact, I had never even heard of them before arriving in Peru.

I think that's one of the wonders of travel: discovery. The floating islands of the Uros are certainly one of the most attractive discoveries of our trip so far. Here's why.

The Uru or Uros people live on over 40 self-built floating islands in Lake Titicaca in Peru. The lake lies at 3,810 meters above sea level, about five kilometers from the nearest mainland city, Puno. The islands consist almost entirely of dried totora reeds, which grow naturally and abundantly in the lake.

The Uros took to the water over a thousand years ago to defend themselves against the aggressive Inca and Colla cultures nearby. The islands take months to build and require ongoing maintenance, but they can be moved in a flash if they are in danger.

We booked a day tour through Amaru Tours in the lobby of the Intiqa Hotel where we were staying. The tour began with a visit to Taquile Island to get a taste of the local culture, followed by a traditional lunch on the Chucuito Peninsula. Both stops are beautiful, but the most impressive are the floating islands.

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When we stepped off our motorboat onto the springy reed islands, it was initially unsettling. I realized I wasn't on a boat anymore, but I wasn't exactly on dry land either. We sat in a circle on a small reed bench while two islanders explained how the islands were built and maintained. The Totora reed is the center of the Uros culture and is used in the construction of the islands as well as the buildings, boats and many of the crafts they sell on the islands. Even much of the islanders' diet and medicine revolves around the reed, with the root used to make iodine, treat wounds, and make a reed flower tea that is widely available on the islands.

After the demonstration we had plenty of time to explore the island and get to know the three families who live there. Depending on their size, the floating islands offer space for two to ten families. They keep rabbits, guinea pigs and ducks and prepare their meals over small fires on piles of rocks. There are also ponds for trout farming in the middle of the islands.

The whole experience was surreal but encouraging. It's good to know that there are still cultures surviving in their traditional means, as far removed from the Western way of life as you can imagine.

Out there in the middle of quiet Lake Titicaca, the isolation really hits home. No noise from the mainland, no humming stream and no ground under your feet.

It's a real miracle.

The essentials

What: A visit to the Uros floating islands as part of a full-day Lake Titicaca tour from Puno, Peru. The tour visits Taquile Island and the Uros Floating Islands, including lunch in Luquina Chico, Chucuito Peninsula. There are opportunities to sail between the floating islands on traditional Luquina boats and on reed boats.

Where: Puno, Peru. We stayed at Intiqa, a clean and comfortable hotel in the mainland city of Puno. The rooms are huge, which was quite a change from the three man tent we were in before! At this altitude the area can be chilly, but the hotel provides hot water bottles and all-day tea to combat the chill. Breakfast is included in the price and there are a number of restaurants and bars within easy walking distance.

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When: The best time to travel to Lake Titicaca is the dry season from May to September. Average temperatures are between 16 and 17 °C (60 to 63 °F). We were there in mid-April and it was certainly a bit chilly, but we enjoyed the clear sky with bright sun. Note that at 3,810 meters above sea level there will always be a bit of a chill in the air, especially at night, so dress warmly.

How: Puno is easily accessible by bus from many Peruvian cities. There are direct buses from Cusco (5-8 hours) and Arequipa (6 hours). We arrived from Nazca after our Nazca Lines flight and transferred in Arequipa. Our favorite bus company in Peru was Cruz del Sur, but there are many other options. Juliaca is the nearest major city and has flights from Lima via Arequipa (2 hours). Book flights via skyscanner.net. There's also the (incredibly expensive) Cusco tourist train, which offers excellent views of the countryside along the way. Go2Peru is a great resource for arranging transportation.

We booked our tour through Amaru Tours in the lobby of the Intiqa Hotel. They offer a number of packages for guests who book their tours and accommodation together, so ask about that.

Don't forget that Lake Titicaca is 3,810 meters above sea level, so make sure you acclimatize properly or you won't enjoy your stay. Try to avoid flying directly to this altitude.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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