Visit the Boulders Penguin Colony in Cape Town

Visit the Boulders Penguin Colony in Cape Town

Boulder's Penguin Colony near Cape Town is home to 3,000 African penguins - but does it live up to the hype?

The “African penguin” is a contradiction in terms. Somehow, the hottest continent on Earth is home to a bird most commonly associated with the coldest: Antarctica. And yet, the three penguin species I've seen have all lived in warm climes: the Galápagos penguin off Isabela Island, which sits right on the equator, the little penguin in super-dry, super-hot Australia, and now the African penguin at Boulders Penguin Colony in South Africa.

If you know Cape Town, you know the Boulders Penguin Colony in Simon’s Town, 40km south.

Boulders penguin colony

Boulders is home to a land-based colony of 3,000 African penguins. It is one of a few in the world and has become a popular tourist destination.

Located in Table Mountain National Park, Boulders includes three beaches, a viewing area and boardwalks designed to maintain distance between penguins and visitors.

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• alt=“Pinguine mischen sich in der Boulders Penguin Colony“>
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• alt=“Eine Vielzahl von Pinguinen“>
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• alt=“Ein niedlicher Pinguin schlendert auf den Strand“>
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• alt=“Ein Afrika-Pinguin in der Boulders Penguin Colony“>
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In photographs of the Boulders Penguin Colony the birds appear to cover the sand, there are so many of them. When they're not being lazy, they waddle around, fall over, scream loudly, and generally act like extras for Pixar.

However, behind the idyllic backdrop lies a sobering truth: their numbers have declined so much that African penguins are now officially threatened with extinction.

An endangered species

In 1910, there were an estimated 1.5 million African penguins in the world. In 1956, the first complete census of the species found that 150,000 breeding pairs remained.

By 2009 this had plummeted to 26,000 breeding pairs, a loss of over 80% in 50 years. In 2010, the African penguin was officially listed as endangered.

alt="An African penguin strolls along Boulders Beach">Atlas & BootsAn African penguin strolls along Boulders Beach

The Boulders Penguin Colony was “founded” when two breeding pairs settled there in 1982. The number of surrounding island colonies increased and breeding numbers increased to 3,900 penguins in 2005. Unfortunately, the numbers have decreased again and are currently around 3,000.

Causes of decline

The decline of the African penguin is caused by several factors. Climate change and overfishing of pelagic stocks are making food more scarce, while habitat destruction is leaving colonies vulnerable to predation, excessive heat and flooding.

African penguins also live along a key oil transportation route and have been exposed to spills with catastrophic consequences.

The 1994 MV Apollo oil slick was reported to have killed 5,000 African penguins, while the 2000 MV Treasure oil slick oiled 19,000 penguins, killing nearly 10% of them and leading to the evacuation of another 19,500, many of whom were exposed to parasites and vector species after being brought inland.

Boulders' penguins are further impacted by vehicles on the adjacent road, pets from nearby beach development, and irresponsible tourist behavior (e.g., selfie sticks through fences, trash, removal of marine life and materials).

To help, consider donating to SANCCOB, a registered nonprofit organization dedicated to reversing the decline of seabird populations like the African penguin.

Our visit to the Boulders Penguin Colony

As with many popular attractions, I wondered whether magazine spreads and Instagram posts were cleverly shot to increase its appeal. Would we really see hundreds of penguins littering the sand of Boulders?

I'm happy to report that there is no exaggeration. The numbers are truly breathtaking. We walked the length of the boardwalks to watch the penguins waddle, swim and play. Needless to say, we were thoroughly enchanted.

However, it must be said that the experience lacked some of the magic of seeing Galápagos penguins in Isabela and little penguins in Australia. The proximity to the road and beach, the shops and stalls along the thoroughfare and the sheer number of tourists made it feel a little contrived.

It is said that 60,000 people visit the Boulders Penguin Colony annually. This equates to an average of 165 people per day, which doesn't seem very high compared to what we've seen. Granted, we arrived at the same time as a large tour bus, but I suspect the numbers are consistently high during peak season.

alt="It's clear why tourists flock to Boulders Penguin Colony">Atlas & BootsIt's clear why tourists flock to Boulders Penguin Colony

Nevertheless, a visit to the Boulders Penguin Colony should not be missed when visiting Cape Town. Seeing so many penguins probably won't change your life, but it will definitely make your day.

Boulder's Penguin Colony: the essentials

What: Visit the Boulders Penguin Colony near Cape Town.

Where: We stayed at The Grand Daddy, a boutique hotel on Long Street, a 15-minute walk from the V&A Waterfront. The hotel is elegant with decidedly quirky touches: the reception is made from old suitcases, the roof has seven artfully renovated Airstream trailers, and the elevator is said to be the oldest still in use in Cape Town.

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The grandfather

The on-site restaurant serves a great breakfast and the nearby Bombay Brasserie offers excellent fine dining at a reasonable price. The Grand Daddy is a great base, but note that the room on the "standard" floor has no natural daylight. We were moved upon request (after some wrangling with a receptionist). Book a “superior” or “luxury” room to avoid this.

When: The best time to visit the Boulders Penguin Colony is the warm summer months from November to April. Temperatures are highest between December and February and this is also the busiest time. Arrive at opening time or an hour before closing time to beat the crowds.

If you're combining Cape Town with a safari, keep in mind that game viewing is best in the dry winter (May-October), as animals congregate around waterholes and the lack of vegetation offers guests a clearer view. In spring (November to December) you can see many newborns.

How: There are no hours listed on Boulders' official website. Lonely Planet quotes her as follows:

• Dez.-Jan.: 7.00-19.30 Uhr
• Feb-März, Okt-Nov: 8.00-18.30 Uhr
• Apr.-Sep.: 8.00-17.00 Uhr

Visitors must pay a conservation fee of ZAR 152 per person (approximately USD 10). Find out about the current tariffs and consult the brochure for further information and contact details.

We hired a taxi from our hotel reception for the day ($70, which included a ride to the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point). Be sure to agree on the daily rate and working hours with the driver in advance. If you are driving, arrive early to ensure you can find parking. We organized logistics on the go with Travel SIM, which works in numerous countries with a single card and phone number.

You can also visit Boulders with City Sightseeing's Cape Point & Penguin Explorer Tour or take a train from Cape Town Station to Simon's Town via public transport (choose a first-class ticket). From Simon’s Town you can either take a 30-minute walk through the historic naval town or take a taxi.

We flew to Cape Town with South African Airways. Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

If you have time, we recommend visiting Lesotho and Eswatini (Swaziland) during your trip to South Africa.

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Lonely Planet South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland is a comprehensive travel guide to South Africa, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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