Feeding arctic reindeer in Tromsø

Feeding arctic reindeer in Tromsø

I'm not an animal lover. I mean, yes, I'm a vegetarian and, yes, I had one of those cute green Blue Peter badges when I was young, but that was more due to general environmentalism than any love of animals.

I'm suspicious of dogs, indifferent to cats, and have been known to wonder how often people trim their kittens (answer: never). With this in mind, you will understand why I was unsure about our Arctic reindeer trip in Tromso.

There was no snow on the ground, so sledding was out of the question, and we weren't even sure if the reindeer would make it out of the mountains in time for our visit (two weeks before the official season start).

Nevertheless, we had a day to spare and decided to spend it at Tromso Arctic Reindeer, 16 km from the city center.

We were picked up by Peter, one of the founders of the camp, and I listened to the usual jokes that are exchanged when my Peter meets another Peter. (It happens more often than you think…)

Peter shared a little about the background of the camp, explaining that he and co-founder Johan-Issak set it up last year to educate tourists about the Sámi people and, of course, offer the thrill of feeding arctic reindeer.

alt="Arctic reindeer in Tromsø">Atlas & BootsPeter feeds arctic reindeer in Tromsø

The Sami are an indigenous people living in the arctic region of Lapland, which extends across the northern reaches of Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Kola Peninsula in Russia. Like many indigenous peoples around the world, the Sami found their way of life upended by modern “progress.”

Their faith, language and right to land have long been threatened by oil exploration, mining, dam building, deforestation, climate change and commercial development.

These threats are part of the motivation behind the Tromso Arctic Reindeer camp.

“If we can show that there is interest in Sámi culture and support for its preservation, then perhaps we can stop what seems to be an inevitable development,” said Peter.

We soon arrived at camp and met Johan-Issak, who comes from a long line of Sámi reindeer herders. With ice blue eyes and an ax in hand, he is the epitome of arctic charm.

alt="Kia and Johan-Issak feed arctic reindeer in Tromso">Atlas & BootsKia helps Johan-Issak feed his arctic reindeer

Johan-Issak took us to meet the arctic reindeer, which was a bit like stepping into a Disney scene.

The reindeer were graceful and playful; hungry but gentle. They gathered around the food box and fought for space. We scooped up small buckets of food and fed the deer by hand, being careful not to bend too low lest we get an antler in the eye.

alt="_feeding-arctic-reindeer-in-tromso-19″>Atlas & BootsPeter hand feeds an arctic reindeer

Their antlers were dangerous, but majestic up close. We learned that reindeer antlers are not static appendages, but living masses of blood and marrow. The antlers harden over time and are shed annually to make way for a new pair. Like a human's fingerprint, no two reindeer antlers are exactly the same.

old=““>Atlas & BootsStraight out of a Disney movie...

As we fed the Arctic reindeer, Johan-Issak knelt by a nearby pond and used his ax to break through the ice to give the herd access to water. It was clear that he has a close affinity with his animals.

Peter told us that the week before they had worked until the early hours of the morning herding the reindeer and working on the camp. When they finished at 4 a.m., Johan-Issak said he would lie down among the reindeer “just for a while” to enjoy the peace and quiet. It spoke of a way of life that we in London have long forgotten.

alt="A silly looking arctic reindeer in Tromsø">Atlas & BootsA playful arctic reindeer

The reindeer were indeed calming: good-natured, gentle and absolutely adorable. Before we said goodbye, we met one of the older leaders. We're told his name is John Deere. Peter and Johan-Issak clearly shared a sense of humor with my very own compatriot.

Afterwards we settled into a lavvu, a traditional Sami tent, for a delicious meal of soup (vegetarian for me please), chocolate chip cookies and tea and learned a little more about Sami culture. Johan-Issak performed a joik, a traditional form of Sami song. It was sweet and moving - even more so when he asked us not to record it. It, he told us, is very personal.

alt="Warm and cozy in Lavvu">Atlas & BootsWarm and cozy in the Lavvu

Our visit to the Arctic reindeer camp was a highlight of our trip, right after the Northern Lights. The camp not only secures a livelihood, but also a way of life. His clients help demonstrate to those in power that there is inherent value in preserving Sámi culture; not to roll over tracts of land just because it has commercial value.

So if you make it to Tromso, please go to Johan-Issak. Get to know his reindeer – and not just to go sleighing with them. Learn about the Sámi way of life, eat their food, feed their animals and use your tourist dollars for good. Trust me as an animal lover: you will have a magical time.

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Arctic reindeer: the essentials

What: Feed Arctic reindeer in Tromso and learn about Sámi culture.

Where: We stayed at the Scandic Ishavshotel, an excellent alternative to the huge Radisson next door. Located on the waterfront, Ishavshotel offers panoramic views of Tromso Harbour, Tromso Bridge and the Arctic Cathedral, as well as easy access to local attractions - the Polar Museum is just minutes away.

Our room had floor-to-ceiling windows and was equipped with the all-important heater and carpeted flooring, making it a cozy escape after a day (or night!) in the cold.

When: From November 14th to March 31st you can feed arctic reindeer in Tromso. Reindeer sleigh rides will have to wait until there is enough snow on the ground, so opt for dates between December 1st and March 31st.

How: We did the reindeer feeding and Sami story (3-4 hours) with Tromso Arctic Reindeer. The price is typically Norwegian at 995 NOK ($118) per person, but includes transfers, guided storytelling, a hot lunch, coffee and snacks.

You can opt for a number of other activities, including a reindeer sleigh package that includes a 35-minute ride. There has been interest from guests in longer trips, but please do not push for it; the half hour works best for the reindeer.

Bring warm clothing, gloves, a hat and good winter boots. It is the Arctic after all!

The best way to get to Tromsø is to fly from Oslo. Book via Skyscanner for the best prices. From Tromso Airport you can take the Flybussekspressen into the city. These cost 60 NOK ($7.3) and leave right outside the airport. The slightly cheaper option is the “state bus” (colored white). You can buy tickets at the newsagent at Tromso Airport (36 NOK or 50 NOK on board). You can reach the correct bus stop by crossing the parking lot underground or bypassing it above ground. Just ask an airport representative if you are unsure.

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Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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