Navigating the Li River, China

Navigating the Li River, China

I backpacked through China with a friend in 2008 (my first big trip outside of Europe!) and really wanted to see as much of the country as possible.

So when we arrived in Guilin after a long flight, we decided against the bus ride to Yangshuo and instead opted for a boat ride (actually just a motorized raft) along the 83 kilometer stretch of the Lijiang, or Li River, as it is also called.

It turned out to be one of the best decisions of the trip. Although it took four times as long as the 80-minute bus journey and cost more (as in three or four pounds more), gliding along the Li was a good way to travel. Our pilot was sort of an older man who didn't speak English, and similarly, we didn't speak Mandarin other than basic.

The scenery was breathtaking and could easily be confused with the CGI landscapes of James Cameron's Avatar. The Guangxi region, where the Li River flows, rivals the Yangtze River or Yellow Mountains region and arguably has the most picturesque scenery in China - so much so that its beauty is recognized and depicted on the current series of China's 20 yuan banknote.

You'll drift past tiny fishing villages, houseboats tied to barrels, tributaries, river traffic, jungle, caves - there's plenty to do. We arrived in Yangshuo late in the evening feeling refreshed and relaxed.

We ventured onto the river many more times during our trip. Kayaks are available for day adventures along the river, allowing you to stop at floating restaurants and bars along the way.

River tours and taxis take you to the surrounding villages, attractions and countryside. We spent an afternoon climbing over a tributary of the river and another cycling along its banks, pausing only to dip and cool off in the many pools and swimming holes along the way.

Yangshuo is a backpacker's paradise, and while I was there I met many people who, like me, were on an extended trip through China and were also on a budget. It's not the most culturally sophisticated city in the world and it's not what you'd call "real China" as it's very much focused on tourism.

Despite this, it is surrounded by stunning scenery amidst green hills and lush jungle vegetation. There are many outdoor activities such as climbing, caving and water sports. And the small but vibrant riverside town has a laid-back charm and a lively social scene. Many travelers often stay longer than planned.

The Li River and its surroundings are the best thing about Guangxi Province, and possibly even China - especially if you're like us and enjoy going off the beaten path and engaging in activities.

Despite Yangshuo's appeal as a backpacker in China's rite of passage, you can spend hours in or along the river without seeing anyone except the odd riverside fisherman or farmers in the fields. It's also a good place to stop and observe; Relax, escape and take it all in. I can only recommend it.

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When to go: We were there in August and it was hot and humid, making it not ideal for the more active days. At this time of year the landscape is also prone to torrential downpours, making roads in the region impassable and the river less inviting. Most travel guides recommend visiting China in September or October for warm, dry, sunny days and clear blue skies without the oppressive humidity found at other times of the year.

How: There are trains and buses to Guilin from many cities relatively close by (China is a big place), as well as overnight trains from Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen. There are also many domestic flights to Guilin Airport (KWL) from further afield (see skyscanner.net for current prices).

From either the train station or the airport, take a taxi to Mo Pan Shan Pier and arrange your transportation from there. There are many different boats available, as well as larger cruises and faster speedboats. Personally, I was happy with our little motorized raft. The better deals can be found further away from the pier on the smaller boats. However, the boats and their owners may not necessarily hold themselves to the same standards as the more commercial ones on the pier itself.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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