Why we regret watching whales in Mirissa, Sri Lanka

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Wal observation in Mirissa is advertised as a must, but irritated tourists, overcrowded boats and unethical practices ensure a deeply disturbing experience

Our first mistake was to give in to the hype. Sri Lanka is considered the only country in the world in which you can see the largest land mammal (the elephants) and the largest water mammal (the blue whale). Therefore we have made whale observation in Mirissa a priority.

Our second mistake was to use a local recommendation instead of our Sri Lanka travel guide - and so we found ourselves at 7 a.m. in the harbor of Mirissa, where we were driven to a two -story boat with 80 other people.

We put our shoes in the common storage box and carefully went up. We found two free seats at the back and attracted our life jackets while we watched dismayed, as more and more people with huge lenses and selfie sticks in tow poured onto the boat.

Alt = "Kia-Walwauche in Mirissa"> Atlas & Boots Kia was less than impressed by our busy boat in Mirissa

okay, I said to myself. Don't be a fool. After enjoying several wildlife experiences on a much small scale (e.g. swimming with whales in Tonga, diving with sharks on Galápagos), I obviously forgot how less demanding trips. (I know I know I'm an idiot.)

I put my snobilism aside and got ready for the journey - like hundreds of others. See, our boat was one of about 20 boats that started this morning, every to the bursting full of tourists. We start hunting prey, our oversupply on ships is like an armada.

Thirty minutes later the captain showed (or it could have been the crew; they carried all T-shirts with the inscription "Captain") on a few turtles. According to taxboard, the passengers stumbled in the desperate attempt to take a seat.

alt = "Turtles on our trip wal observation in Mirissa"> Atlas & Boots This turtle couple caused a rush on the boat

a short time later we met an adorable group of dolphins. The mind ignited when the elbows bumped and selfie sticks shot through the smallest gap. Of course we were all too passive-aggressive to really say something.

alt = "Dolphins on our whale watching tour in Mirissa"> Atlas & Boots Dolphins play in the waters in front of Mirissa

When the whales appeared (about an hour later), the tension in the air was tense. Did the space at the railing belong to me because I was sitting next to it? What if I don't get it quickly enough? What if the whales appeared on the other side? What if he has taken a good photo and I don't? These were clearly the questions that people deal with.

When the first whale appeared, pressed and pushed the passengers to get a good look. Unfortunately, some were less than impressed. We saw whales (a cock that dived out of the water, a spine that slid and slid out), but we would like to do with Planet Earth and Google Images; We had expected a damn more!

alt = “A whale dives on our whale watching tour in Mirissa”> Atlas & Boots Wal observation in Mirissa

Seriously, the whales were of course majestic, but it was difficult to enjoy the experience, not only because the boat was overcrowded, but also because the whales were overcrowded. Most whale watching companies in Mirissa follow International guidelines for rapprochement with the mammals, but the sheer amount of boats is simply unnatural.

alt = ”one of the many boats for whale observation in Mirissa”> Atlas & Boots one of the less crowded boats for whale watching in Mirissa

At some point I looked around and counted 17 boats that chased the one whale. There was simply no justification for being there. I do not doubt that smaller boats and more conscientious operators offer better service, but they still contribute to overfilling.

It reminded me of the advantages of tourism caps again. Wal observation in Mirissa can be a force for the good; It can promote education and nature conservation and contribute to the local economy sustainably - but only if it is moderated and regulated.

We were told that the Srilankian coast guard has increased its efforts in monitoring whale observation in Mirissa in order to maintain the regulations for observation, regulation and control of marine mugs that determine the distances to be observed, accommodation methods and maximum boat speeds to ensure that the natural habitat of the whale will not disturbed.

alt = "A whale dives into the water"> Atlas & Boots A whale dives into the water

Unfortunately, my admittedly untrained eye cannot see how we don't disturb the whales. With so many boats - each with full load -bearing capacity - I cannot believe that the whales do not notice the whales.

Instead of stricter controls, tourists can relieve the strain more directly: by foregoing whale observation in Mirissa. A clear decline in tourism would be a clear signal to the authorities: regulate or lose the tourist collar. If this sounds like a ransom payment, it is also intended. How detailed in the world does not get better, the biodiversity is greater than we do.

alt = “The nearby Koggala lake is an excellent alternative to Mirissa”> Atlas & Boots The nearby Koggala lake is an excellent alternative to Mirissa

If you simply cannot leave the country without watching whales, you choose Trincomalee on the east coast instead. This relatively calm part of the country has excellent excursions, which are not yet loudly advertised with the specific goal of "not bending in Mirissa", we are told. Organize a trip through Trinco Blu.

What else is there to do for Mirissa except watching whales? Well, actually nothing. Instead, we recommend driving to nearby coggala. There is no whales, but it has a picturesque beach and offers an excellent starting point to continue the UNESCO World Heritage Site Galle and the Koggala lake.

And the best at all? There are no passive-aggressive tourists who would rather cut them out than leave a centimeter.

Wal observation in Mirissa: The essentials

What: Wal observation in Mirissa. As mentioned above, do not watch the whale observation and instead use the nearby Koggala to visit the Fort Galle and explore Lake Koggala.

Where: We stayed in the South Lake Resort in Koggala, 20 km west of Mirissa. The hotel offers a number of spacious rooms with a view of the lake or the garden and is only a few minutes from the beach where locals are sitting on stilts in the sea.

The restaurant offers a selection of international cuisine - although the local food was far the most tasty!

The activities in the region continue to visit the bile, surf in Kathaluwa and the sailing on Lake Koggala. Of course, instead, you can simply laze on the beach or indulge in treatment in the Spa Oya, which is only a boat trip from the hotel.

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Atlas & Boots

When: The best travel time for Mirissa, Koggala and the south coast of Sri Lankas is from December to April when the rainfall is low.

like: You can reach Koggala by train from Colombo (see timetable here). The South Lake Resort is just a short walk or a tuk tuk trip from the train station (1 km).

Depending on the starting point, various bus lines are available. It is worth noting that we found bus trips in Sri Lanka to be quite stressful, so you may want to take a transfer instead. Your hotel can arrange this, but it is always worth negotiating a discount, since these are normally excessive (e.g. if 15,000 LKR are specified, ask for 11,000).

Many tourists choose to rent a driver for the entire trip. This costs about $ 45 a day (including the days on which you do not use the driver). We used Ajaa (+94 777 284 178) and Sisi (+94 777 203 083) for shorter transfers and found them friendly and reliable.

Most international flights end up at the Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB). Book via Skyscanner at the best prices.

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