Why We Regret Whale Watching in Mirissa, Sri Lanka

Why We Regret Whale Watching in Mirissa, Sri Lanka

Whale watching in Mirissa is touted as a must-do, but irritable tourists, overcrowded boats and unethical practices make for a deeply unsettling experience

Our first mistake was giving in to the hype. Sri Lanka is considered the only country in the world where you can see the largest land mammal (the elephant) and the largest aquatic mammal (the blue whale). Therefore, we made whale watching in Mirissa a priority.

Our second mistake was using a local recommendation instead of our Sri Lanka travel guide - and that's how we found ourselves in Mirissa harbor at 7am, herded onto a two-story boat with 80 other people.

We put our shoes in the shared storage box and carefully went upstairs. We found two empty seats in the back and put on our life jackets, watching in dismay as more and more people streamed onto the boat with giant lenses and selfie sticks in tow.

alt="Kia Whale Watching in Mirissa">Atlas & BootsKia was less than impressed with our busy boat in Mirissa

Okay, I said to myself. Don't be a jerk. Having enjoyed several wildlife experiences on a much smaller scale (e.g. swimming with whales in Tonga, diving with sharks in Galápagos), I had apparently forgotten how less sophisticated people travel. (I know, I know, I'm an idiot.)

I put my snobbery aside and prepared for the ride, as did hundreds of others. You see, our boat was one of about 20 boats leaving that morning, each packed to capacity with tourists. We set out to hunt for prey, our surplus of ships resembles an armada.

Thirty minutes later, the captain (or it could have been the crew; they were all wearing t-shirts that said “Captain”) pointed to a pair of turtles. The passengers stomped to starboard in a desperate attempt to get seated.

alt=“Turtles on our whale watching trip in Mirissa”>Atlas & BootsThis pair of turtles caused a stampede on the boat

A short time later we encountered an adorable group of dolphins. Tempers flared as elbows bumped and selfie sticks shot through the slightest gap. Of course, we were all too passive-aggressive to really say anything to each other.

alt=“Dolphins on our whale watching tour in Mirissa”>Atlas & BootsDolphins play in the waters off Mirissa

When the whales surfaced (about an hour later), the tension in the air was tense. Did I own the spot at the railing because I was sitting next to it? What if I don't get to it fast enough? What if the whales appeared on the other side? What if he took a good photo and I didn't? These were clearly the questions on people's minds.

When the first whale surfaced, passengers pushed and shoved to get a good look. Unfortunately, some were less than impressed. We saw whales (a tail emerging from the water, a spine sliding in and out), but we Attenborough wannabes were fueled by Planet Earth and Google Images; we damn well expected more!

alt=“A whale dives on our whale watching tour in Mirissa”>Atlas & BootsWhale watching in Mirissa

Seriously, the whales were majestic of course, but it was difficult to enjoy the experience, not only because the boat was crowded, but also because the whales were crowded too. Most whale watching companies in Mirissa follow international guidelines for approaching the mammals, but the sheer number of boats is simply unnatural.

alt="One of the many whale watching boats in Mirissa">Atlas & BootsOne of the less crowded whale watching boats in Mirissa

At one point I looked around and counted 17 boats chasing the one whale. There was simply no justification for us being there. I don't doubt that smaller boats and more conscientious operators provide better service, but they still contribute to overcrowding.

It reminded me once again of the benefits of tourism caps. Whale watching in Mirissa can be a force for good; it can promote education and nature conservation and contribute sustainably to the local economy – but only if it is moderated and regulated.

We are told that the Sri Lanka Coast Guard has increased its efforts in monitoring whale watching in Mirissa to maintain the Marine Mammal Observation, Regulation and Control Regulations, which specify the distances to be maintained, approach methods and maximum boat speeds to ensure that the whales' natural habitat is not disturbed.

alt=“A whale dives into the water”>Atlas & BootsA whale dives into the water

Unfortunately, my admittedly untrained eye can't see how we don't disturb the whales. With so many boats - each with full carrying capacity - converging on a daily basis, I can't believe that the whales are blissfully unaware of the intrusion.

Instead of tighter controls, tourists can ease the burden in a more direct way: by foregoing whale watching in Mirissa. A significant decline in tourism would be a clear signal to authorities: regulate or lose the tourist dollars. If this sounds like a ransom payment, then it is intended. As detailed as the world doesn't get better, the biodiversity is greater than us.

alt="The nearby Koggala Lake is an excellent alternative to Mirissa">Atlas & BootsThe nearby Koggala Lake is an excellent alternative to Mirissa

If you just can't leave the country without spotting whales, opt for Trincomalee on the east coast instead. This relatively quiet part of the country has excellent excursions that are not yet loudly advertised with the specific goal of “not turning off in Mirissa,” we are told. Organize a trip through Trinco Blu.

What else is there to do in Mirissa other than whale watching? Well, nothing actually. We recommend heading to nearby Koggala instead. There are no whales, but it has a picturesque beach and provides an excellent base for visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site Galle Fort as well as Koggala Lake.

And the best thing ever? There are no passive-aggressive tourists who would rather poke out your eye than give you an inch of space.

Whale watching in Mirissa: the essentials

What: Whale watching in Mirissa. As mentioned above, skip the whale watching and instead use nearby Koggala to visit Galle Fort and explore Koggala Lake.

Where: We stayed at South Lake Resort in Koggala, 20 km west of Mirissa. The hotel offers a range of spacious rooms with lake or garden views and is just minutes from the beach, where local fishermen sit on stilts in the sea.

The restaurant offers a selection of international cuisine – although the local fare was by far the tastiest!

Activities in the area include visiting Galle Fort, surfing in Kathaluwa and sailing on Koggala Lake. Of course, you could also just lounge on the beach instead or indulge in a treatment at Spa Oya, just a boat ride away from the hotel.

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Atlas & Boots

When: The best time to visit Mirissa, Koggala and the southern coast of Sri Lanka is from December to April when rainfall is low.

How: You can reach Koggala by train from Colombo (see timetable here). South Lake Resort is a short walk or tuk-tuk ride from the train station (1km).

Depending on your starting point, different bus lines are available. It's worth noting that we found bus travel in Sri Lanka quite stressful, so you may want to take a transfer instead. Your hotel can arrange this, but it's always worth negotiating a discount as these are usually excessive (e.g. if it says LKR 15,000, ask for 11,000).

Many tourists choose to hire a driver for the entire trip. This costs approximately $45 per day (including days you don't use the driver). We used Ajaa (+94 777 284 178) and Sisi (+94 777 203 083) for shorter transfers and found them friendly and reliable.

Most international flights land at Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB). Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

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