Hunting for the Northern Lights in Tromsø

Hunting for the Northern Lights in Tromsø

We traveled 350km north of the Arctic Circle to hunt the elusive Northern Lights in Tromsø. Here's what happened

I pulled the blanket over my head and snuggled up against the headboard.

“I don’t want to go out,” I said, the words hot and sullen beneath the covers.

Peter pulled the covers off the bed. “Come on, we have to go.”

I sighed tiredly and picked myself up. It's true: I didn't want to go out. We were in the Arctic Circle for heaven’s sake! It was six o'clock in the evening and it was freezing outside! And dark! And ice cold!

We had been out and about all day and enjoyed a short but hearty break at the hotel before heading out for the third night in a row. We each spent our first two nights chasing the Northern Lights in Tromso (to no avail) and hiking with arctic huskies (I'm a cat person). I shouldn't complain, but as Peter will tell you, I can't stand the cold.

I put on my thermal tights, then my leggings, then my hiking pants. On top I had a long sleeve thermal vest, a long sleeve base layer, a t-shirt, a fleece and a waterproof jacket. With all the grace and agility of the Marshmallow Man, I put on three pairs of socks and my hiking boots. Then came a buff and a scarf, a hat, earmuffs, two pairs of gloves and of course my little hotties, which were pretty much the only thing that brought me joy at that moment. With another fleece blanket and scarf stuffed into my backpack, I was finally ready to go.

We took the short walk from our hotel to Guides Central where we were to meet Gunnar from GuideGunnar, one of the oldest and most experienced companies when it comes to chasing the Northern Lights in Tromsø.

alt="northern-lights-in-tromso-1″>Atlas & BootsWarm (and therefore happy) back in GuideGunnar's offices

Gunnar welcomed us into the office and walked us through the strategy for the evening. Using a huge wall map, he explained that clouds were moving into the area. So if we were unlucky we would have to drive a few hundred kilometers south to a mountain range that kept the clouds at bay and thus offered good views of the lights.

As a planner, I was encouraged by his pragmatic approach and quickly perked up.

We climbed into Gunnar's van (thankfully heated) and watched a short video explaining the phenomena of the Northern Lights. It's worth checking out as it explains in plain language exactly what causes the Northern Lights in Tromsø and beyond.

What surprised me most was the fact that the Northern Lights are always present: 24/7, 365 days a year. It's not the inherent elusiveness, but the weather conditions that make them so difficult to see.

We continued driving for about 20 minutes when, to my surprise, Gunnar said he would stop as he thought the lights would come on. We jumped out of the van, hopeful but cautious. After chasing the lights for six hours just two nights before, I wondered if our luck could really change so quickly.

Then, to my delight, we saw a striking band of light in the sky. I felt a strange mix of emotions: awe that we could finally see the famous Northern Lights, relief that the cost was worth it, but also a sense of dashed expectations. You see, the lights were stationary and colored a modest forest green. These weren't the vibrant greens of time-lapse videos and professional photos. Did the cameras lie? Was the reality just a little...subtle?

alt=”Were we tricked by Nat Geo photos? Was the reality just a bit…subtle?”>Atlas & BootsHave we been tricked by Nat Geo photos? Was the reality just a little...subtle?

As the lights faded we returned to the van and continued driving, bracing ourselves that this could be for the best. Whatever, I thought. I saw the Northern Lights in Tromso. Life's work unlocked.

What I didn't know at the time was that it would get so much better. We stopped another 30 minutes later and Gunnar decided to set up camp for the evening. He built a fire, handed out warm drinks and delicious Norwegian pastries (they had cinnamon in them - if you know what I'm talking about, please send the recipe!).

We didn't have to wait long before the lights reappeared and slowly drifted across the sky. Gunnar allowed me and Peter to break away from the main group and walk down a quiet country lane where there was no light pollution at all.

We paused there for one of those moments that make you feel like you've done everything right in life.

alt=“New trees on the hunt for the Northern Lights in Tromso”>Atlas & BootsA look at what we've been waiting for

Of course the mood was ruined when I realized this would be a good opportunity to go to the bathroom. Shortly afterwards we rejoined the group to warm up by the fire.

The lights above them flared and dimmed, then flared and dimmed. At this point I was pretty happy with the experience and would have liked to go home. However, as I toasted my gloves over the fire, I heard Gunnar's voice cutting through the darkness.

"Watch the sky! They'll be filled with lights in a minute!" he shouted with supernatural clairvoyance.

As if on cue, the sky came to life with lights. A multitude of individual representations - some flickering, some flickering, others dancing and spiraling - came together in a single fantastic scene.

Ah, so that's what we've been waiting for.

To say it was heavenly isn't quite enough. It muffles your step in the snow, raises the hairs on the back of your neck, takes your breath away and almost brings you to tears.

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Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

We watched the lights for ages that I didn't have time for. The display was so impressive that we knew there was nothing better. When Gunnar offered to end early, we all agreed and said goodbye to the lights.

I will probably never see the Northern Lights again, even if I visit my dream destinations of Greenland and Baffin Island. But that's OK. You get lucky once in your life.

Northern Lights in Tromso: The Essentials

What: Hunt for the Northern Lights in Tromso, Norway, 350 km (217 miles) north of the Arctic Circle.

Where: We stayed at the Scandic Ishavshotel, an excellent alternative to the huge Radisson next door. Located on the waterfront, Ishavshotel offers panoramic views of Tromso Harbour, Tromso Bridge and the Arctic Cathedral, as well as easy access to local attractions - the Polar Museum is just minutes away.

Our room had floor-to-ceiling windows and was equipped with the all-important heater and carpeted flooring, making it a cozy escape after a day (or night!) in the cold.

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The breakfast (included in the room rate) is exceptional. For starters, the hotel has its own barista who can make you coffee. There's a delicious selection of hot dishes, as well as fresh breads, cheese platters and cold cuts - but the pièce de résistance is the bowl of macarons, sitting quietly in the dessert corner. Unlimited Macarons! Have you ever heard something like this? Needless to say, we highly recommend the hotel.

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When: There is so much information out there about the best time to see the Northern Lights in Tromso, but much of it is contradictory. We were there in October, so we trust Norway Lights, which suggests that March, April, September and October are the best times to see the Northern Lights in Tromsø.

It's worth noting that when we asked Gunnar about claims that the lights are fading, he said, "As long as the sun is still shining on your face, the northern lights will appear."

How: Chasing the Northern Lights in Tromso isn't cheap (around 1,250 NOK ($150) per person), but with a guide you really have the best chance. We highly recommend Gunnar, who has not only been running Northern Lights tours for years, but has also guided cross-country skiers and skiers (including the former Prime Minister of New Zealand) for years: guide-gunnar.no, info@guide-gunnar. no, +47 93 443 443.

Gunnar's tours include warm drinks and snacks, thermal suits, tripods and high-visibility wristbands. His van seats 14 passengers so you can share your experiences with others, but you can book a private tour if you're willing to pay extra.

The most important thing to remember is that the Northern Lights in Tromsø (or indeed anywhere) depend heavily on the weather. It requires patience, resilience (did I mention it's cold?), and also acceptance of the fact that you might not see anything at all.

The best way to get to Tromsø is to fly from Oslo. Book via Skyscanner for the best prices. From Tromso Airport you can take the Flybussekspressen into the city. These cost 60 NOK ($7.3) and leave right outside the airport. The slightly cheaper option is the “state bus” (colored white).

You can buy tickets at the newsagent at Tromso Airport (36 NOK or 50 NOK on board). You can reach the correct bus stop by crossing the parking lot underground or bypassing it above ground. Just ask an airport representative if you are unsure.

Good luck!

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Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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