Moor shoe hiking in Latvia: silly but outrageously fun

Moor shoe hiking in Latvia: silly but outrageously fun

Moor shoe hiking in Latvia? No, we hadn't heard of that either. But the wetlands of Ķemeri National Park are more than an ordinary tourist destination

It's cliché, I know, but travel always surprises me. I've hiked all over the world—from high-altitude hikes in Nepal and Pakistan to remote expeditions in Greenland and Norway—so when I was invited to the small Baltic nation of Latvia, whose highest point is just 312 m (1,024 ft) above sea level, I wasn't expecting to find much in the way of vast wilderness. But despite its size, Latvia devotes considerable space to nature and outdoor activities.

My itinerary included a morning in the swamps of Ķemeri National Park, located about 40 km from the capital, Riga. Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, Ķemeri, known for its healing mud and spring water, was a popular health resort that attracted wealthy travelers from Moscow. Despite its pungent smell (similar to rotten eggs), the sulphurous water is perfectly drinkable and has numerous health benefits.

The well-heeled tourists of yesteryear may have dried up somewhat, but the region still attracts nature lovers looking to escape Riga's urban sprawl. While the former resort's magnificent buildings, medicinal mud and sulfur water remain, the region is now better known for its pristine peat bogs, moss-covered forests and peaceful lakes.

Tourists instead come to hike the park's trails and boardwalks or take part in outdoor activities such as rafting, stand-up paddleboarding and the more unusual phenomenon of mudshoeing.

Well, if you've never heard of mudshoeing, then you're not alone. It was completely new for me too.

Moor shoe hiking in the Ķemeri Moor

The first thing I noticed when I arrived at Lielais Kemeru Tirelis (Ķemeri Moor) was the birdsong. The small car park, nestled in a dense grove of beech and pine trees, was filled with the chatter of wagtails, wood sandpipers, golden plovers and the occasional but distinctive squawk of cranes.

I was soon joined by my guide for the morning, Kristaps from Purvu Brideji (which means “swamp bridegroom” in Latvian). As a geographer and cartographer, Kristaps has been leading winter snowshoe hikes around Ķemeri since 2015 and recently started mudshoe hikes in the spring and summer months.

alt=“A pair of snowshoes rests on the forest floor”>Atlas & BootsSnowshoes… or mud shoes?

Bog shoeing is essentially snowshoeing, but instead of using the lightweight, large-footprint shoes for walking over snow, they are used in the same way for walking over the springy, water-saturated terrain found in bogs, swamps, and marshes (note: there is a difference). .

We walked along the main trail for about 10 minutes before branching off the trail into the surrounding forest. As the trees thinned and the ground became muddier, we paused to put on our rubber boots and snowshoes.

Kristaps gave me a crash course in how to walk on moors: take big, slow steps, don't turn sharply or walk backwards, and never cross-step. He also showed me what types of terrain to avoid: The greenest, wettest grass would probably be too muddy to walk on, so try aiming for the yellower areas instead.

alt=“My guide leads me around a small lake”>Atlas & BootsKristaps leads the way

Soon we were walking over sodden ground that is normally closed to hikers, hence the lack of trails in the area. The walking was fairly slow (around 2km per hour compared to 5km per hour when hiking over flat terrain), but we weren't aiming to cover a lot of ground, but were trying to reach places that would normally be off-limits without snowshoes... I mean mudshoes!

We maneuvered around the bog, passing picturesque ponds of still water and climbing over the odd tree felled by beavers, sloshing and squeezing over the springy vegetation.

Kristaps paused occasionally to point out native plants such as edible wild berries such as cranberries, crowberries, cloudberries and blueberries, as well as heather and wild rosemary. The latter has hallucinogenic properties that may have been used by ancient Viking warriors to prepare for plunder.

alt=“A white wildflower in Ķemeri National Park”>Atlas & BootsA wildflower in Ķemeri National Park

Bog formation in Latvia began in the postglacial period around 10,000 years ago, when the climate became warmer and wetter. This process allowed the formation of sapropel mud on the bottom of lakes, consisting of sandy soil and the remains of plants and animals.

The oxygen-free (anaerobic) environment of peatlands along with the presence of excessive tannins (naturally occurring chemicals used in tanning leather) are characterized by the preservation of organic materials, including bodies. A series of well-preserved bog bodies from 8000 BC. It has been found in peat bogs around the world, delighting archaeologists. More recently, several World War II tanks and even an aircraft have been discovered in Ķemeri, with the bodies of their pilots and crews preserved at the site.

alt=“A quiet lake in Ķemeri”>Atlas & BootsA quiet scene in Ķemeri

Likewise, bog oak – oak that has been buried in a peat bog for hundreds or even thousands of years – is among the hardest woods in the world. Once dry, it is said to be “comparable to some of the most expensive tropical hardwoods in the world.”

The moor shoe hiking itself was great fun. We stopped at a wide expanse of bog ripe for the “swamp shuffle” and took turns skipping around a particularly rubbery peat bog. Kristaps explained that the water directly beneath the moss and grass can be up to two meters deep. Without the snowshoes we would sink in up to our necks!

After a few more stops for photos and fooling around on the moor, it was time to head back to the trails. Our time had flown by. We had covered around 3.5km in two hours and not seen a soul during our time on the moor. That's another great thing about mudshoeing in Latvia: if hikers don't have snowshoes, they can't leave Ķemeri's trails and boardwalks, leaving you free and ridiculous.

Moor shoe hiking in Latvia? It's as silly as it sounds, but outrageously fun.

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alt=“Peter mud shoe hike in Ķemeri National Park, Latvia”>

Atlas & Boots

A few more shots from the excursion

Large Ķemeri moor promenade

After I finished my bog shoe excursion, I made the 15-minute drive to Great Ķemeri Moor, a popular spot for visitors and tourists that offers everyone the opportunity to explore the bog without the need for special footwear.

Here, a network of boardwalks winds through the soft vegetation, thinly spread trees and tiny dark lakes, punctuated regularly with benches and observation towers where you can sit and watch the, er, moor go by.

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Atlas & Boots

Large Ķemeri moor promenade

There are two circuits to choose from: a 1.4 km long path that runs continuously along the narrow wooden boardwalks, or a 3.4 km long course that includes several stops, including an observation tower. The two-story wooden tower offers a wide panoramic view of the tranquil landscape.

The Great Ķemeri Bog boardwalks are a popular destination year-round, especially for sunrise and sunset photographers. So don't expect the same loneliness as when hiking on the moorland. That said, I was there on a weekday in June and only encountered a handful of people. Wherever you go, Ķemeri National Park is characterized by tranquility.

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Atlas & Boots

Large Ķemeri moor promenade

Moor shoe hiking in Latvia: the most important thing

What: Mud shoe hiking in Ķemeri National Park, Latvia.

When: While Latvia is a year-round hiking destination, mudshoeing can only be done when the ground is not frozen (otherwise it's just snowshoeing). Therefore, the best time to travel on mudshoe hikes in Latvia is between April and September. From mid-September the temperatures drop rapidly and the first snow falls in mid-November.

Where: I stayed at the elegant Dome Hotel right in the center of Riga's charming Old Town. The hotel is on a quiet street just around the corner from Cathedral Square and the towering red-brick Riga Cathedral, which can be seen from some rooms. Just a two-minute walk in the other direction is the magnificent Riga Castle, the official residence of the President of Latvia.

alt=“A room in the Dome Hotel in Riga, Latvia”>

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alt=“Riga Cathedral, Latvia”>

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Atlas & Boots

The Dome Hotel is located in the heart of Riga's Old Town

Housed in a 400-year-old building, the five-star hotel features a spa with Turkish baths, massage rooms and a sauna, as well as a rooftop restaurant with great views of the cathedral.

How: I went on a mudshoe hike in Latvia with Kristaps from Purvu Bridēji. Prices start at €120 per person but drop quickly as more participants: €80 per person for two people; €60 per person for three or four people; €40 per person for five or six people; €25 per person for groups of nine people or more. The price includes rental of mud shoes and rubber boots and transfers from Riga can be added for a small fee. For more information, click here or email Kristaps at info@purvbrideji.lv.

Ķemeri National Park is about 45 minutes by car from Riga. The meeting point for the moor shoe hike is at the Lielais Kemeru Tirelis (Ķemeri Moor) car park (see map). From there it's just a short walk before you strap on your snowshoes and begin the moor shoe hike. Just a 15-minute drive around the corner is the Great Ķemeri Bog Boardwalk (see map). There is a €2 fee for parking at the Great Ķemeri Bog Boardwalk.

I rented a car from Sixt at Riga airport after flying from London to Riga International (RIX). Book via skyscanner.net for the best prices.

I continued my journey from Latvia by train with an Interrail Global Pass. After meeting with Kia in Warsaw, Poland, we traveled over 3,000 km by train and visited seven countries on the way to San Marino. Founded in 1972, Interrail just celebrated its 50th anniversary and recently launched several initiatives including the Mobile Pass and the Rail Planner app, both of which made traveling easier.

Global Passes start at €503, include one month of unlimited train travel across 33 European countries and are valid for 11 months from the date of issue. Some reservation fees are charged by national railway companies. It is recommended that seat reservations be booked at least 4-6 weeks in advance. Find out more about Interrail Mobile passes.

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Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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