Fight weather at the Franz-Josef Glacier

Fight weather at the Franz-Josef Glacier

In the event of a pouring rain and dwindling humor we try the Franz-Josef Gletschertalwalung

We were in a pressed mood. Our helicopter hike to the Franz-Josef Glacier in New Zealand was canceled due to bad weather, which meant that we could not get to the glacier itself. In view of the huge and cloudy cloud cover, there was even the possibility that we would not see the glacier at all.

We were careful. In 2015 we almost missed Machu Picchu because of the endless fog. A few months later we hiked to Torres del Paine in Patagonia in Chilean and found it completely wrapped in clouds - a disappointment that Peter continues to this day.

New Zealand, which was described by Lonely Planet in 2018 as one of the best travel countries, is a place of boundless beauty, and we did not want it to be stained with a bitter sweet memory. We could impossible to end our 15-day tour without having seen the glacier.

alt = “Franz-Josef glacier in good weather”> Dream time Franz-Josef glacier under a blue sky

The Franz-Josef Glacier is located in the Westland-Tai-Poutini National Park on the west coast of the South Island and was almost named after Queen Victoria. In 1852 the European explorer Leonard Harper named him after the British monarch, but did not officially register this name. In 1865 the geologist Julius von Haast named it after Franz Josef I, Emperor of Austria, and the local village later received his name.

The glacier once stretched from the mountains to the sea. After thousands of withdrawal, the glacier is now 19 km inland and can only be reached by helicopter. Since our helicopter hike was canceled, our only way was to hike to a viewpoint near the terminal wall.

alt = "The Franz-Josef Glacier was not exactly exhilarating at first glance"> Atlas & Boots heavy clouds on the way to the Franz-Josef Glacier

There are different hikes, but in view of the cloudy weather, we chose the uncomplicated Franz Josef Glacier Valley Walk, a 5.4 km long journey over rocks and gravel.

We went to our hostel reception to book a shuttle for 3 p.m. if the weather was supposedly cleared up. There we learned that a shuttle would take off shortly (at 1:00 p.m.), and we made a spontaneous decision to go along despite the early departure.

When we arrived at the glacier parking lot, I noticed that Peter was in a unusually bad mood. (I am usually the moody in difficult weather.) He was frustrated because we hadn't followed our plan. It was raining heavily, the clouds were tight and there was hardly any chance that we would see the glacier now.

alt = "Smiling through the pain on the Franz-Josef Glacier"> Atlas & Boots Smiling through the pain on the Franz-Josef Glacier

As I said in love on the first hike, sometimes when your other half finds a little difficult, you have to pull yourself together and be the strong. So I tried all of my tricks: a winning smile, an abundance of questions about his favorite topic (of course mountains) and repeated assurances that we could wait two hours on the viewing platform to see if the weather changes.

Unfortunately, the hurry meant that the previous shuttle was not sufficient that we were not sufficiently prepared. Peters jacket and top were soaked and we had not yet eaten at noon. We continued to trudge in tense silence. The sky darkened and the rain continued to boom. We walked along the river bed and barely stopped to enjoy the landscape: certainly breathtaking in good weather, but in a clue in bad weather.

alt = "The weather over the Franz Josef Glacier started to clear"> Atlas & Boots Franz-Josef Glacier in bad versus Better weather

Soon we reached the crossing of the Waiho River, which stood in the rain. Several walkers turned around at this point, but we continued to trotte and soaked our boots and socks (my beloved waterproof anatoms were at home in Great Britain).

We continued with dwindling courage. Forty -five minutes after the start we reached the viewing platform and saw ... hardly anything. There was a recognizable part of the end wall of the glacier, but after seeing the extraordinary Perito-Moreno glacier a few years earlier, Franz Josef was clearly disappointing in his current form.

We spent a while to take photos desperately, to blink from our eyelashes and cuddle us into our jackets. We considered whether we should wait or not. Based on the shuttle times, our options were either to go now or to set ourselves to another two hours. Peter was cold and wet and I was hungry and had to pee, so we decided to turn back.

Alt = “The Franz-Josef Glacier appeared from the clouds”> Atlas & Boots [Franz Josef Glacier Emerges from the Clouds

We Truded Back Across the River, But I Kept Turning Around Longingly, Willing the Cloud to Clear. We paused at a cluster of rocks and forlornly split a banana. After a discreet Bathroom Break, I Felt Better and Told Peter That I Thought We Should Stay. I used his own motto Against Him: 20 years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do Than by the Ones you did do. If we left new zealand with Seing Franz Josef Glacier, Wultn’t He Always Wonder If the Skies had cleared?

We Settled in and Waited. Slowly and in Stages, The Sky Cleared and there emerged the glacier soaring 300m above Sea level.

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We were toed. Franz Josef Glacier Didn’t Usurp Perito Moreno, but it was stunning nonetheless. We watched it shapeshift before our eyes, Now an Insipid White, Now a Playful Blue, Its Crevasses Glinting Like Polished Glass.

The Weather wasn’t Perfect, but it was good enough. As it Happens, by 3PM, The Clouds Rolled in and Obscured the View Once Again. Had we stuck to our original plan, we would have missed the glacier Altogether. Our Decision to Wait was Perfectly Justified.

and the best thing about it all? I’m no Longer the only one who gets Moody in the rain and you can bet i’ll be mentioning that the next time Peter Tells Me to Buck up on a challenge Walk.

Franz Josef Glacier Valley Walk: The Essentials

What: Franz Josef Glacier Valley Walk as Part of a G Adventures 15-Day South Island Tour.

• Length: 5.4km (1.5HR) Return from Car Park
• difficulty: easy
• Terrain: Unven Surfaces Over Rock and Shingle and a River Crossing
• Map: Trail and Township

Where: Accomodation on the Tour Includes 14 Nights in Simple Hotels and Hostels Including a Farmstay and a Night at a Former Jailhouse. Some Lodgings Had Shared Bathrooms and Bunk-Style Beds. If you are a couple, highlight this at the time of booking so you can have a double bed where possible.

When: The Best Time to Visit New Zealand is Sep-Apr. Summer (Dec-Feb) Offers Excellent Hiking Weather and a Variety of Festivals and Events. The Shoulder Seasons of Autumn (Mar-Apr) and Spring (Sep-Nov) Have Fine Weather, Fewer Crowds and Lower Prices.

How: The Franz Josef Glacier Car Park is 5km from Town. You can walk, drive or take a shuttle. From the Car Park, Follow Signs for the Franz Josef Glacier Valley Walk.

We Explored New Zealand’s South Island on A G Adventures 15-Day South Island Tour, Prized AT £ 2.149 GBP OR $ 2.792 USD by person (Depending on Dates) for a 15-Day Trip from Wellington to Wellington. The Itinerary Takes in Abel Tasman National Park, Franz Josef and Queenstown Among Others.

The Price Includes A Chief Experience Officer (CEO) Throughout, Basic Breakfasts and Several Meals, and Numerous Activities Including Hiking, Kayaking and Cycling. Optional Activities Include Franz Josef Glacier Heli Hike, Skydiving, Bungy Jumping, Canyoning and Via Ferrata Among Many, many other. For more information or to book, Call 0344 272 2040 OR VISIT GADVURES.com.

We Flew from the UK to New Zealand via Singapore and Australia. Book via Skyscanner for the Best Prices.

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disclosure: We Travelled to New Zealand with support from Lonely Planet and G Adventures. All publications say this, but we real don’t guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think - Good and Bad - So you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

lead image: Atlas & Boots

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