Visit to the historic district of Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

Visit to the historic district of Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

We have earmarked Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay as a place where we can stop and take a breather from our hectic travels. Similar to our time in Tahiti in the South Pacific, we thought it would be an ideal place to pause and rejuvenate for a few weeks before embarking on another chapter of our journey.

Unfortunately, by the time we reached Buenos Aires, Argentina – just 50km across the Río de la Plata – we were running out of both funds and time. Therefore, what should have been a longer stay with some much-needed downtime became a quick stopover with little more than a quick tour of the historic district's (Barrio Histórico) main attractions.

Still, we liked what we saw in Colonia del Sacramento.

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The Portuguese founded the small and charming settlement in 1680 in its strategic location on the north bank of the Río de la Plata opposite Buenos Aires. Over the next 150 years, the region changed hands no less than 10 times, with control switching back and forth between Spain and Portugal. The region was conquered, besieged and repeatedly attacked by the two colonial superpowers until it was incorporated into newly independent Brazil in 1822. Six years later, when Uruguay declared its independence, Colonia del Sacramento finally found lasting peace and rose to “ciudad” (city status).

The well-preserved urban landscape, which was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1995, is a popular tourist attraction for visitors from Buenos Aires and the rest of Uruguay. Nevertheless, the city remains a quiet and intimate destination. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants catering to the masses, but the city hasn't swelled or lost its charm. Despite transportation to the city, Colonia's population remains low at 27,000.

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Unlike so many other colonial urban areas of the period, Colonia del Sacramento's historic district does not conform to the rigid "checkerboard" grid imposed by Spain under the "Laws of the Indies." Instead, irregular and winding cobblestone streets lead from the quiet riverfront back to the plane tree-lined courtyards, the largest and liveliest of which is the Plaza Mayor.

The quiet streets are full of independent cafes, restaurants, galleries, museums and craft and souvenir shops. As evening falls, the sound of live music begins to drift through the courtyards, but this is not Cartagena, Colombia. Nightlife in Colonia is calm and serene; not the Latin American vibe you might expect across the water in Buenos Aires.

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To take in all the sights and have enough time to do what the city encourages most - meandering - ideally stay for a long weekend. However, if you're short on time like us, you probably need to prioritize.

Some of the best-preserved colonial buildings can be found at the Portón de Campo (city gate), the lighthouse and monastery ruins, the stone Basilica of the Blessed Sacrament, the city museum, the quay and waterfront areas, and the picturesque Calle San Pedro.

However you spend your time in Colonia del Sacramento, make sure you get to the riverfront in time to catch the sunset.

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Colonia del Sacramento: The Essentials

What: Visit to the historic center of Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay.

Where: On the north bank of the Río de la Plata, 180 km west of Montevideo and 50 km from Buenos Aires, Argentina. We stayed at Hotel Romi, a mid-range hotel located a few blocks from the historic center.

When: The best time to visit Colonia del Sacramento is in summer (December to March). This is the busiest time of year, so prices are higher and it can be difficult to find a room as thousands of visitors arrive from Buenos Aires. The next best options are low season (Apr-Jun and Oct-Nov). In the winter months (Jul-Sep) it can get downright chilly and some attractions, shops and hotels may be closed.

How: BuqueBus offers the most convenient and fastest ferry routes across the Río de la Plata to and from Buenos Aires. You will find the cheapest tickets if you do not travel on the weekend or on Friday evening. Travel times vary and range from one to three hours, depending on the time of day and ticket class. Colonia Express and Seacat also offer ferry crossings. One-way tickets start at around $30-50.

The ferry terminal in Colonia del Sacramento is a short walk to the outskirts of town on the edge of the historic center, where most of the hotels are located. Next to the ferry terminal is the bus station, where buses to Montevideo are easy to find. There are several daily bus services from Colonia del Sacramento to Montevideo from a number of reputable companies. Although rarely necessary, it is best to purchase tickets at least a day in advance to avoid disappointment. The journey takes 2.5 to 3.5 hours depending on the stop and costs around 12 USD (UYU360 pesos).

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Mission statement: Herbert Brant/Creative Commons

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