Salt of the Earth: Visiting Lac Assal in Djibouti

Salt of the Earth: Visiting Lac Assal in Djibouti

We visit Lac Assal in the Afar Depression, where three diverging tectonic plates have created some of the strangest sights we have ever seen

Lac Assal in Djibouti is devilishly deceptive. At first glance, it appears to be a magnificent expanse of blue-green water and dazzling white sand that could easily be mistaken for a Maldivian beach. But behind the facade lies a painful lesson: the vast white plain is not sand at all, but salt: jagged shards that bristle on the skin and leave you itching for water.

Maybe you venture out to swim, but you won't find peace there either. Lac Assal, a crater lake in central Djibouti, is ten times saltier than the sea. In fact, it's the second saltiest body of water in the world and will burn your eyes and scratch your skin if you work up the courage to go for a swim.

alt="Lac Assal in Djibouti could be mistaken for a Maldivian beach">Atlas & BootsLac Assal in Djibouti could be mistaken for a Maldivian beach

The geology of the lake is fascinating: at 155 m below sea level, it is the lowest point in Africa and the third deepest point in the world after the Dead Sea and the Sea of ​​Galilee. It lies in the Danakil Desert at the Afar Triple Junction, where three of the Earth's tectonic plates are pulling apart. The area suffers from extreme heat, with summer temperatures reaching 52 °C (126 °F).

High evaporation and no runoff lead to extreme salinity. Geologists say the lake originally contained fresh water, and theories vary in explaining the change. It could be that Lac Assal was flooded by the sea from a nearby bay, or that rising sea levels created rivers that connected the lake to the sea, or that tremors from surrounding volcanoes severed the original connection to the Gulf of Tadjoura. Whatever the explanation, the result is enchanting.

alt="There are theories behind the extreme salinity of Lac Assal">Atlas & BootsDespite the extreme salinity, Lac Assal is absolutely enchanting

As we walked to the shore, the dry salt bed crunched beneath our feet like long-set snow, and the blazing sun and white glare were in full bloom. We undressed on the bank and took a few cautious steps in. It soon became clear that we couldn't wade in barefoot, so we returned to get our shoes before jumping in.

It is no exaggeration to say that the pain was shy. The salt will pierce even the smallest cut and Lord help you if it gets into your eyes.

The water has a strangely viscous quality; an oily texture that leaves a film on the skin. The film is, of course, a layer of salt, which, although tolerable in water, itches to the point of distraction when dried in the sun.

Don't try to put on leggings like I did after! Instead, pack a loose pair of shorts and some fresh water to remove the salt as much as possible. However, remember that fresh water is precious to the local population, so use it sparingly.

The local Afar and Issa people have long mined the lake, scraping or digging salt from the shore and carving the ancient caravan routes to transport salt to Ethiopia in exchange for coal, coffee, ivory, musk and other goods.

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Atlas & Boots

Today, private companies extract salt from Lac Assal for commercial purposes, and a new industrial plant financed by the Chinese is poised to further commercialize the lake.

The future of Lac Assal certainly lies in trade, be it salt production or increasing tourism. For now, it remains a remote place of unhindered beauty – just one of Djibouti's many wonders. This tiny country, the eighth smallest in Africa, is a bewildering landscape of bubbling limestone vents, vast desert plains, petrified forests, extraordinary salt lakes and pristine coral reefs squeezed into an area one-sixth the size of England.

I hope you will forgive me, but the locals are right: their country is truly Djiboutiful.

Lac Assal in Djibouti: the essentials

What: Visit Lac Assal in Djibouti as part of a 2-day, 1-night tour to Lac Abbé and Lac Assal.

Where: We stayed in an Afar camp, which was surprisingly comfortable (running water, western toilets with bidets and electricity!).

We then returned to the Sheraton Djibouti overlooking the Red Sea. The rooms are clean and comfortable with excellent WiFi and lovely sea views on one side of the hotel. The outdoor pool is located on a raised platform above the sea and gives the unmistakable feeling of being on board a boat.

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Atlas & Boots

The hotel offers a range of amenities including a free airport shuttle, a convenience store, a business center and a fully equipped fitness center. Of course, we preferred the cozy lounge area, perfect for enjoying an evening whiskey sour and watching the sunset over a gently lapping sea. Overall, it was a welcome touch of comfort to end our trip with.

When: The best time to visit Djibouti is November to January, when whale sharks make their annual visit and the weather is cooler. The shoulder season of October and February to April is also a good time to visit. May-September is extremely hot.

How: We visited Lac Abbé and Lac Assal on a 2 day tour with Rushing Waters Adventures, currently ranked number one in Djibouti on TripAdvisor. Rushing Waters is run by Wisconsin native Ken, who has lived in Djibouti for over seven years (and can even speak Somali!).

Our tour was well organized and, as mentioned above, the overnight camp was surprisingly comfortable. The tour includes pickup and drop-off, all meals and non-alcoholic drinks, a driver for two days, and accommodation for one night. Overall, it's an excellent way to visit these otherworldly landscapes. Book through Ken at Rushing Waters Adventures: www.kayakdjibouti.com, kgradall@kayakdjibouti.com, +253 77 79 49 58.

Djibouti is a small country, which means getting around is pretty easy. Taxis from the airport charge a fixed fare to hotels in the city (around 2,000 DJF / 11 USD). Check the board outside the airport to make sure you are not being overcharged. Some hotels, including the Sheraton, offer free shuttles, so check beforehand.

Book international flights through skyscanner.net at the best prices.

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Lonely Planet Ethiopia & Djibouti is a useful travel guide to Djibouti, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.

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