Temple of Artemis: Should Britain return its stolen treasures?

Temple of Artemis: Should Britain return its stolen treasures?

I squinted at the map on my phone and read the tiny numbers in the afternoon glow of an unforgiving sun. The Temple of Artemis was definitely marked on the map - number 23.

We had spent the morning in Ephesus, Turkey's iconic archaeological site, and were now in search of the Temple of Artemis, one of the famous seven wonders of the ancient world.

We had walked three different paths and reached the boundaries of the site without being able to locate the seemingly mythical temple. Finally we traipsed to the south gate, our arms stretched out at unnatural angles to allow air around our sweating skin. We were greeted at the gate by a typically gregarious Turk who cheerfully told us that the Temple of Artemis was not in the Ephesus complex at all, but 3km away, near the city.

Although a 3km walk rarely intimidated us, the prospect of trudging to the temple in the ungodly heat didn't appeal to either of us, so we hopped in a taxi instead. Ten minutes and $5 later we found ourselves on a barren hill of swampy mud and parched grass.

alt="Fit for a goddess? The famous temple of Artemis sits atop a balding swamp hill">Atlas & BootsFit for a goddess? The famous Temple of Artemis sits atop a balding swamp hill

We walked to an abandoned information board and surveyed the scene beyond. We didn't expect much from the temple (all of the ancient wonders except for the Pyramids of Giza have been destroyed), but we did expect more fanfare surrounding the site itself: perhaps a velvet rope or some kind of plaque - something commemorating the significance of the site. Instead we found a lone pillar surrounded by scattered stones.

alt=“What’s left today”>Atlas & BootsWhat remains today?

It seems that the Temple of Artemis, a tribute to the eponymous Greek goddess of the hunt, has now become the city's fourth best attraction after Ephesus, Ayasoluk Castle and Isa Bey Mosque. We spent 20 minutes walking around the ruins, unable to get too close due to the swampy pool.

Around 800 B.C. The temple, built in the 1st century BC, was destroyed three times in succession by floods, arson and looting. The third incarnation stood for 600 years and included over 127 pillars, only one of which remains in its original location.

As we stood before the lonely pillar, we tried to absorb its meaning; to bask in the echoes of a glorious past.

Unfortunately all we felt was a sense of oppression tinged with the guilt of being British. As you can see, parts of the temple were excavated and transported to the “Ephesus Room” of the British Museum following the work of British archaeologists John Turtle Wood in 1869-1874 and David George Hogarth in 1904-1906.

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Of course, this is not the first time that the British have claimed valuable artifacts. Other controversial items include the Rosetta Stone from Egypt and the Elgin Marbles from Greece. Authorities in both countries have long campaigned for the return of these objects, but the British Museum has cleverly refused, claiming that the treasures are a World Heritage Site and are more accessible to visitors in London.

The British Museum is also likely concerned that priceless artifacts are at risk in foreign museums that have far fewer resources. Finally, at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, King Tutankhamun's beard was glued back on using everyday glue.

After all, if the British Museum gives in to one claim, it could open the floodgates to dozens of others.

On the other hand, British ownership of valuable artifacts is generally the result of colonial disputes rather than diplomatic agreements. If we want to follow a modern code of conduct, then the only option is to return valuable artifacts to their country of origin, regardless of whether it has the means and motivation to preserve them as we would.

One thing that has always amazed us at Atlas & Boots is the incredibly warm welcome we as Brits receive around the world. Indians called us countrymen, a Fijian called Britain the "motherland" and Kenyans proudly told us they still use the shilling. It seems that Britain's colonial past was so powerful, so complete, that it managed not only to dominate distant lands but also to endear itself.

Perhaps now is the time for Britain to show humility; to extend the same courtesy that others offer us. Maybe it's time to return our treasures.

Visit to the Temple of Artemis: the essentials

What: Visit to the Temple of Artemis in Selçuk, Turkey.

Where: We chose the Akay Hotel, which is perfectly located for visiting Ephesus as well as the other attractions around Selçuk. It is close to the Temple of Artemis, Ayasoluk Castle, St. John's Basilica and Isa Bey Mosque and just a 10-minute walk from the city center and train station.

The hotel features an inviting swimming pool, a small bar serving cold drinks, snacks and beer, and even a pair of turtles roaming the garden. The real attraction, however, is the expansive view of the surrounding city and landscape. Breakfast is served outside your room overlooking the view, so ask for an upstairs room.

The staff have limited English but will go out of their way to help you with anything you need. Şükran had a dictionary nearby and diligently wrote down sentences to make sure we understood each other correctly.

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When: The best time to visit Ephesus is spring (March to mid-June), when the weather is temperate and the days are long. Note that it may rain for a day or two, especially in April. Even if it is milder than summer, don't underestimate the sun. Summer will definitely be hot and likely crowded, while winter can be cold and rainy.

How: You can walk to the Temple of Artemis from Akay Hotel as it is just 1km away. Entry is free. In fact, there is no entrance; You can just walk up to it!

We arrived Turkey at Ataturk International Airport in Istanbul and spent a few days in Istanbul before heading to Selçuk. We took a domestic flight to Izmir (1 hour) and then got on a train to Selçuk (1 hour 20 minutes).

The airport is international and has connections to a number of domestic destinations throughout Turkey. Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

The trains proved to be very reliable and easy to use. Further information and booking options can be found on the Turkish State Railways website. We also used the train to continue to Denizli to visit Pamukkale.

Lonely Planet Turkey is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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