Camping in Wadi Rum: a night in the desert

Camping in Wadi Rum: a night in the desert

Camping in Wadi Rum in Jordan was a little different in terms of comfort and scenery than the wild camping I'm used to.

The striking rock formations, rolling red sand dunes and sparkling night skies are as far away as you can get from England's damp towel of a rooftop.

Wadi Rum's captivating landscape can be explored on camelback or in the relative luxury of a jeep. We only had one day and one night in the desert, so we opted for a jeep tour during the day, followed by a night of Bedouin-style camping in Wadi Rum.

alt=“Camping in Wadi Rum – 15″>Atlas & Boots

Our afternoon jeep tour of Wadi Rum, known as the Valley of the Moon, took in the main attractions:

• Khazali Siq – ein schmaler Spalt, der in den Berg schneidet
• Jabal Umm Fruth Bridge – einer von mehreren natürlichen Felsbögen des Wadi Rum
• Felsformation Sieben Säulen der Weisheit
• Vorislamische Felsinschriften, die Menschen und Antilopen darstellen (auf der anderen Seite der Wüste)
• Eine natürliche Pyramide und ein menschliches Gesicht, geformt durch Jahrtausende der Verwitterung
• Lawrence’s Spring – eine kleine Oase, berühmt geworden durch TE Lawrence (Lawrence von Arabien)
• Lawrence’s House (Al-Qsair), wo er während der arabischen Revolte wohnte
• Jebel Umm al-Ishrin – ein tief zerklüfteter Berg, der als „Mutter der Zwanzig“ bekannt ist

All of this lies amid the hypnotic undulating sand dunes and striking rock formations that are unique to the Wadi Rum desert. The terrain alone is enough to keep you busy for hours, but it's just before sunset that the landscape really comes to life. Camping in Wadi Rum offers the opportunity to enjoy a tranquil atmosphere uninhibited by the confines of a hotel.

alt=“Camping in Wadi Rum – 20″>Atlas & Boots

After arriving at our campsite, we had enough time to settle into our accommodation before heading to a viewpoint to enjoy the stunning desert sunset.

Unfortunately we almost completely missed the sunset! We had decided not to join the group excursion, and in our efforts to find the best vantage point, we were still climbing up the side of a rocky slope as the sun began to approach the horizon. Luckily, we made it to a beautiful natural viewing platform just in time to enjoy the sunset on the film set. Realizing that darkness was quickly approaching, we climbed back down in our flip-flops and made our way back to camp.

alt=“Camping in Wadi Rum Sunset – 1″>Atlas & Boots

In the evening, we indulged in traditional Bedouin hospitality - dinner cooked on the sand, endless cups of delicious sweet tea and a shisha pipe or two - and then rounded off our day with a breathtaking starry sky.

I had no idea what I was seeing when a fellow camper exclaimed, "Oh, wow! You can see the Milky Way!" She tried to explain to me several times that it was actually possible to see the Milky Way from Earth. I wasn't convinced, but nodded in agreement and decided to do some astronomical research when I got back.

• alt=“Eine Nacht im Wüstencamping in Wadi Rum“>
• alt=“Eine Nacht im Wüstencamping in Wadi Rum“>
• alt=“Eine Nacht im Wüstencamping in Wadi Rum“>
• alt=“Eine Nacht im Wüstencamping in Wadi Rum“>
• alt=“Eine Nacht im Wüstencamping in Wadi Rum“>
• alt=“Eine Nacht im Wüstencamping in Wadi Rum“>
• alt=“Camping in der Wüste Wadi Rum“>
• alt=“Eine Nacht im Wüstencamping in Wadi Rum“>
• alt=“Camping im Wadi Rum Sonnenuntergang“>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=“Zelten im Wadi Rum – 20″>
• alt=““>

Later, Kia and I went for a walk under the cover of darkness. We lay with our backs against the cool sand and looked up at the glittering heaps a million miles away. Living in London makes it easy to forget the natural beauty around us. This was a much needed reminder.

Sleepily we vowed not to retreat until we saw five shooting stars. I counted four when I sensed Kia was cold. She snuggled into my arms and insisted she was fine, eager to earn her camping stripes (I didn't tell her that our well-equipped tent was anything but wild camping).

I pulled her back to the tent, where we crawled under the comfortable blankets and fell into a deep sleep, lulled by the sweet and holy silence of the desert. That was until Kia woke me up in the middle of the night to take me to the toilets, probably afraid she would get lost and end up eaten by snakes and dingoes!

Don't worry, there were no snakes and certainly no dingoes in Jordan!

Camping in Wadi Rum: the most important thing

What: Camping in Wadi Rum, Jordan.

Where: We stayed at the Bedouin Lifestyle Camp, whose office is located in the town of Wadi Rum. They offer a range of jeep, camel and trekking tours through the desert. Owner Attallah Alblwi runs a professional outfit with a personal touch.

If you are traveling to Petra, Amman and the Dead and Red Seas as part of a longer trip, use Jordan Select Tours, who offer friendly and efficient service.

When to go: We were there at the end of October and it was perfect for me: warm and dusty during the day and cool in the evening. Kia found the midday sun a little too hot at times, which was amusing since the main complaint I hear from her is that she's too cold.

Low season (Sept-Oct or Apr-May) is probably best as temperatures are not unbearable during the day and it is not too cold at night. Bring an extra layer just in case.

How: The best way to get around Jordan is to rent a car, as the distances are fairly short and the roads are easy enough to navigate. Wadi Rum is located about 300 km (185 miles) south of Amman, 100 km (60 miles) south of Petra and 60 km (35 miles) northeast of Aqaba.

Public transport is unreliable at best, but there are some more comfortable coaches and minibuses available through JETT. There are no direct buses from Amman, Petra or Aqaba to Wadi Rum, but you can use the routes above and ask the driver to drop you off at the Desert Highway exit, where a road leads to Wadi Rum.

Taxis and minibuses are available here to take you to the Wadi Rum protected area and visitor center for 3-4 JOD (4-6 USD).

Upon arrival at the Wadi Rum Protected Area entrance at Rum Village, you must visit the Wadi Rum Visitors Center and pay an entrance fee of 5 JOD (7 USD).

Rum Village is home to the majority of desert dwellers, travel agencies, and a few cafes, but it's pretty low key. There is a Nabataean temple surrounded by Thamudic and Kufic rock art that is worth a quick visit if you have time.

It's best to start your trip in Amman, where the international airport and most travel agencies and transport connections are located. Book flights via skyscanner.net.

old=““>

Lonely Planet Jordan is a comprehensive travel guide to Jordan, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

      .