Camping in the Wadi Rum: A night in the desert

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Camping in the Wadi Rum in Jordan was a little different in terms of comfort and landscape than the wild camping that I am used to.

The striking rock formations, the rolling red sand dunes and the sparkling night sky are as far away as can only be reached from England's damp towel.

The captivating landscape of Wadi Rum can be explored on the back of a camel or in the relative luxury of a jeep. We only had one day and a night in the desert, so we decided during the day for a jeep tour, followed by a camping night in the Wadi Rum in Bedouin style.

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Our afternoon jeep tour through Wadi Rum, known as the valley of the moon, led to the most important sights:

  • Khazali Siq - a narrow gap that cuts into the mountain
  • Jabal Umm Fruth Bridge - one of several natural rock arches of the Wadi Rum
  • rock formation seven pillars of wisdom
  • Preislamic rock inscriptions that represent people and antelopes (on the other side of the desert)
  • a natural pyramid and a human face, shaped by thousands of weathering
  • Lawrence’s Spring - a small oasis, became famous by Te Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia)
  • Lawrence’s House (al-Qsair), where he lived during the Arab revolt
  • Jebel Umm al-Ishrin-a deeply rugged mountain that is known as the "mother of the twenty"

All of this is located in the middle of the hypnotic wavy sand dunes and striking rock formations that are unique in the Wadi desert. The area alone is enough to employ it for hours, but only shortly before sunset the landscape really wakes up to life. Camping in Wadi Rum offers the opportunity to enjoy a quiet atmosphere uninhibited from the boundaries of a hotel.

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After arriving at our campsite, we had enough time to set up in our accommodation before we broke down to a viewpoint to enjoy the breathtaking sunset in the desert.

Unfortunately we almost completely missed the sunset! We decided not to take part in the group excursion, and in our efforts to find the best viewpoint, we still climbed the side of a rocky slope when the sun began to approach the horizon. Fortunately, we just managed to enjoy the sunset on the film set in time. When we were aware that the darkness approached quickly, we climbed back down in our flip-flops and made our way back to the camp.

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In the evening we indulged in traditional hospitality of the Bedouins-dinner cooked in the sand, endless cups of delicious sweet teas and one or two shisha pipes-and then rounded off our day with a breathtaking starry sky.

I had no idea what I saw when a fellow camper called out: "Oh, wow! You can see the Milky Way!" She tried to explain to me several times that it was actually possible to see the Milky Way from Earth. I was not convinced, but nodded in agreement and decided to do a little astronomical research after my return.

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later Kia and I went for a walk in the protection of the dark. We lay with our back against the cool sand and looked up at the glittering piles at a million miles away. Life in London makes it easy to forget the natural beauty around us. This was an urgently needed memory.

sleepy we swore not to withdraw until we saw five shooting stars. I counted four when I felt that Kia was cold. She nestled into my arms and insisted that it was good for her to be eager to earn her camping strips (I didn't told her that our well -equipped tent was anything but wild camping).

I pulled her back to the tent, where we crawled under the comfortable blankets and fell into a deep sleep, lulled into a lulled manner from the sweet and holy silence of the desert. That was until Kia shaked me in the middle of the night to bring me to the toilets, probably out of fear that she could get lost and be eaten at the end of snakes and dingos!

No worry, there were no snakes and certainly no dingos in Jordan!

Camping in Wadi Rum: The most important

What: Camping in Wadi Rum, Jordan.

Where: We stayed in the Bedouin Lifestyle Camp, whose office is in the city of Wadi Rum. They offer a number of jeep, camel and trekking tours through the desert. Owner Attallah Alblwi leads a professional outfit with a personal touch.

If you travel to Petra, Amman and the Dead and Red Sea as part of a longer trip, use Jordan Select Tours that offer a friendly and efficient service.

Travel time: We were there at the end of October and it was perfect for me: warm and dusty during the day and cool in the evening. Kia sometimes found the midday sun a little too hot, which was amusing because the main complaint I hear from her is that she is too cold.

The low season (Sept. Okt. Or Apr.-May) is probably best because the temperatures are not unbearable during the day and it is not too cold at night. In any case, take an additional layer with you.

like: The best way to move in Jordan is a rental car, as the distances are quite short and the streets are easy enough to find your way around. Wadi Rum is about 300 km (185 miles) south of Amman, 100 km (60 miles) south of Petra and 60 km (35 miles) northeast of Aqaba.

public transport is at best unreliable, but there are some more comfortable coaches and minibuses that are available via jett. There are no direct buses from Amman, Petra or Aqaba to Wadi, but you can use the routes mentioned above and ask the driver to stop at the exit of the Desert Highway, where a road leads to Wadi Rum.

Here, taxis and minibuses are available that they bring to the Wadi rum and visitor center for 3-4 iodine ($ 4-6).

When arriving at the entrance to the Wadi Rum Protected Area in Rum Village, you have to visit the Wadi Rum Visitors Center and pay an entry fee of 5 iodine (7 USD).

rum Village houses the majority of desert dwellers, travel agencies and a few cafés, but it's pretty inconspicuous. There is a Nabatean temple that is surrounded by Thamudic and Kufischer rock art and is worth a short visit when you have time.

It is best to start your trip to Amman, where the international airport as well as most travel agencies and transport connections are located. Book flights via skyscanner.net.

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Lonely Planet Jordan is a comprehensive travel guide to Jordan, ideal for those who want to explore the most important sights and take the less busy street.

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