Exploring Cooktown, Captain Cook's historic landing site

Exploring Cooktown, Captain Cook's historic landing site

We visit Cooktown in far north Queensland, where Captain James Cook beached his stricken ship and helped found a vast country

If you've seen a map of Australia, you've seen the vast, remote Cape York Peninsula, an area larger than Britain but with a population of just 18,000. Home to Australia's northernmost point, the Cape York Peninsula faces upward toward the Torres Strait and New Guinea in the northeastern corner of the continent-sized island of Australia.

On the southeastern edge of the peninsula, which has around 2,600 inhabitants, lies Cooktown, a small town with a great history. During our small ship expedition around the Great Barrier Reef with Coral Expeditions we went for a morning.

alt=“Exploring Cooktown Australia 1″>Atlas & BootsView across the water from Cooktown

As an exploration junkie obsessed with maps, grand expeditions and epic journeys of discovery, I was only too pleased to enter the legendary land of Cooktown.

Great southern continent

Lieutenant James Cook set sail from Plymouth, Great Britain, in 1768 as captain of the HMS Endeavour, a converted coal ship. It was the first of his now four legendary voyages to the Pacific Ocean. The almost 30 m long ship carried 93 men to Tahiti. Their mission: to observe the “transit of Venus”.

The Endeavor carried further "secret" instructions to take possession of "a continent or country of great extent" believed to exist in the southern latitudes. Cook was tasked with discovering the fabled – but unexplored – great southern continent.

In October 1769, the Endeavor reached the coast of New Zealand, becoming the first European ship since Abel Tasman's Heemskerck in 1642. The ship continued north to what was then known as Terra Australis.

alt=“Exploring Cooktown Australia 8″>Atlas & BootsA model of the HMS Endeavour

On April 29th, the Endeavor became the first European ship to land on the east coast of Australia. Cook landed on the south coast of what is now Botany Bay in Sydney.

The Endeavor continued north and sailed along the east coast of Australia. The ship and its crew narrowly escaped disaster after running aground on the Great Barrier Reef.

After dropping weapons and supplies to lighten the ship, the crew managed to free the Endeavor. Just a week later, on June 17, 1770, they beached the ship at the mouth of what would become the Endeavor River at the site of today's Cooktown.

Cook and his crew remained on site for 48 days while making repairs. Here they encountered the Guugu Yimithirr Aboriginal tribe, leading to the first documented significant contact with Australia's indigenous people.

On July 19, 1770, they began their return journey to Great Britain and, after almost three years at sea, reached the English port city of Dover on July 12, 1771.

Kochstadt today

Today Cooktown makes the most of its maritime history with the outstanding James Cook Museum at its centre. Housed in a beautiful former monastery built in 1899, the museum features well-preserved relics, including the cannon and anchor of the Endeavour—recovered by an American research team in 1969—as well as journal entries and exhibits about local indigenous culture.

We spent an hour wandering through the rooms of the small museum, fascinated by the stories presented. The excerpts from Cook's diaries are particularly compelling. They describe his crew's first meeting with the Aboriginal Guugu Yimithirr tribe, as well as the skirmishes and reconciliation before the ship's departure. There is also an account of Cook's life in a series of plaques on the walls.

Other galleries house items from the students and nuns who once called the monastery home, stories from the Palmer Gold Rush, and an exhibit dedicated to the region's Chinese heritage. The Indigenous Gallery offers a fascinating insight into the culture and history of the Guugu Ymithiir people, particularly their perspectives on encounters with Cook and his crew.

Along the waterfront is Bicentennial Park, dotted with memorials to the historic landing. These include the much-photographed bronze statue of Captain Cook, as well as a second monument erected over a hundred years ago. The tall sandstone column and plaque rise from a square base containing drinking fountains on each side. There is also a rock out in the water that marks the spot where the Endeavor ran aground.

alt=“Exploring Cooktown Australia 15″>Atlas & BootsThe bronze statue of Captain Cook

Nearby is the Milbi Wall, a 12m long mosaic installation depicting the history of the local Aboriginal tribe Guugu Yimithirr. The installation, divided into three parts, shows the creation stories of the Endeavor River and its surroundings, the first meeting between the indigenous people of Cape York Peninsula and the Europeans, and the 1967 referendum when Australians recognized indigenous rights.

It's also worth stopping by the quaint and charming post office to send a postcard with a Captain Cook-themed stamp (what else!). The post office was established in 1880 and doubles as the headquarters of the Australian Bureau of Meteorology for the region.

Finally, there's Grassy Hill Lookout, the 520-foot-high hill that Cook climbed in search of safe passage through the reefs. The first documented European sighting of kangaroos took place here. Scientist Joseph Banks recorded the animals in his diary as “gangurru,” which he transcribed as “kangaroo.” The 360 ​​degree views of the city, river and sea are worth the 20 minute walk from town.

We headed to Queensland to dive and snorkel on the Great Barrier Reef, but stepping ashore in Cooktown, following in the legend's footsteps, learning about its unique history and strolling around the pretty town was a fascinating detour from the rolling Coral Sea.

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Atlas & Boots

Exploring Cooktown: the essentials

What: Explore Cooktown, Captain Cook's historic landing site in Australia.

Where: We stayed on Coral Expeditions II in a cabin on the upper deck. Our room was extremely comfortable and surprisingly spacious with plenty of storage space and a stunning sea view.

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Atlas & Boots

Aperitifs were served on the upper deck and meals were taken in the lower deck dining room, where Chef Mark prepared feasts for breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as morning and afternoon tea.

The maximum capacity of 44 guests (ours had 22) makes for an excellent camaraderie and atmosphere, enhanced by a delightful crew. Overall, it was a wonderful way to explore the Great Barrier Reef.

When: The best time to visit Cooktown, Queensland and the Great Barrier Reef is from July to October for good visibility and little rain and wind.

How: We joined Coral Expeditions for a 7 night expedition from Cairns to Hinchinbrook Island, Lizard Island and back to Cairns.

Prices start from A$3,680 (US$2,720) per person and include all meals, tea and coffee, snorkeling equipment and wetsuits, snorkeling excursions, guided glass-bottom boat rides, presentations by marine biologists, access to islands, marine parks and national parks, an introduction to diving skills for first-time divers and drop-off at a Cairns hotel or Cairns Airport. Prices do not include dives ($80 AUD / $60 USD per person, per dive) or stinger suits. Please note that there is no internet access on board.

Expeditions depart and return to the Cairns Cruise Liner Terminal. You will receive boarding instructions before departure, which are worth reading carefully as taxi drivers do not always know exactly where to go.

Cairns itself can be reached by car from Hertz Australia, by bus from Greyhound Australia or by plane to Cairns Airport. Book domestic or international flights with Skyscanner at the best prices.

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Lonely Planet Australia is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Disclosure: We explored the Great Barrier Reef with support from Coral Expeditions. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

Mission statement: Public domain

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