Millennium Cave in Vanuatu: Exploring in the Dark

Millennium Cave in Vanuatu: Exploring in the Dark

Millennium Cave in Vanuatu is a fun and adventurous hike through Vanuatu's largest cave on the outskirts of Luganville

We have been on our long-awaited trip around the world for two weeks and are already in the middle of the hustle and bustle. So far we've had a day at the Kiwanis (Vanuatu's annual horse race), swam under the Mele Cascades waterfall, kayaked to Erakor Island, scuba-dived for the first time ever, and seen the wreck of the SS Coolidge.

Each day brought a new experience, the most challenging of which was the Millennium Cave Tour, a hike through Vanuatu's largest cave on the outskirts of Luganville on the island of Espiritu Santo.

Millennium Cave in Vanuatu

We set off with a group of six other adventurers and hiked through lush rainforest to the small village of Vunaspef, where we were told to leave behind anything that couldn't get wet. Some of our companions handed over expensive cameras and kept checking that the guide would keep them safe.

alt=“Millennium Cave in Vanuatu 6″>Atlas & BootsTrekking through lush rainforest

We strapped on the obligatory life jackets and hiked into rougher terrain, climbing over steep and slippery rocks. In particularly dangerous places, the guides had nailed pieces of wood to rocks to make passage easier. That certainly helped - without it there would certainly have been one or two serious accidents.

We stopped at a clearing for a symbolic ritual: clay paste applied to our faces to show our respect for nature and ensure safe passage. Then we carefully descended to the entrance of the large cave: 50 m high and over 3 km long. With torches in hand, we entered and waded through ice-cold water up to our knees.

I asked Charlie, our guide, how often he does this. “Every day,” he replied with a smile. "Every day." He explained that much of the proceeds from the tour will be used to build a school in the village.

"We built classroom one and classroom two. This summer we are building classroom three," he added proudly. “We have a teacher from Santo teaching our children every week.”

“That’s why we do this,” he continued. “Our customers have a good time and they also help our village.”

Then, distracted, he waved us over to a slippery wall. He shone a flashlight on it. I backed away. There were about 20 spider-like insects crawling around in a frenzy. Charlie sensed my distress and assured me, "They're not spiders; they're crickets. Just crickets."

Peter joked that I was acting like Willie Scott from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom (“Indyyyyy”). Needless to say, I was not amused.

Halfway into the cave the guide asked us to turn off our flashlights. My mind flashed to a scene from The Descent, the horror film in which a group of spelunkers stumble upon a species of otherworldly carnivores - not a comforting thought when they're plunged into darkness.

I couldn't even see my own hand in front of my face. We heard the other cavers below startling with growling noises.

alt=“Millennium Cave in Vanuatu 13″>DreamtimeEmerging into a clearing from the Millennium Cave in Vanuatu

We spent an hour in the cave - slipping and sliding and collecting bruises in this dark, otherworldly space. Finally we emerged victorious in a clearing by a river. We stopped for lunch and then spent the afternoon climbing through a gorge, diving into a river and floating downstream back to the village of Vunaspef.

Our weary limbs were soothed by the fresh coffee and fruits laid out by the locals. While we ate, they taught us some Bislama – an English-language Creole – and were very amused that we knew the Bislama word for “bikini.”

Yes, if you want to make a Ni-van laugh, tell her you know how to say bikini: "Basket blong titi" will send her into fits.

An Australian couple hiking with us gave the villagers some notebooks and pens - practical gifts that were gratefully received. Exhausted but delighted, we packed up our things, said goodbye to the guides and boarded our bus back to the dusty town of Luganville, ready for our next adventure.

• alt=“Millennium-Höhle in Vanuatu“>
• alt=“ein Wasserfall in der Nähe der Millennium Cave in Vanuatu“>
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• alt=“ein Wasserfall in der Nähe der Millennium Cave in Vanuatu“>
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• alt=“Das Dorf am Ende des Weges“>
• alt=“Kia auf der Spur“>
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Port Vila has an international airport with regular flights to airports on Australia's east coast (book via skyscanner.net).

Lonely Planet South Pacific contains a comprehensive travel guide to the country (including the Millennium Cave in Vanuatu), ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.

Additional photography: Dreamstime

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