Idyllic Worship: The Monastery of Mount Popa on a Volcano

Idyllic Worship: The Monastery of Mount Popa on a Volcano

We visit Taung Kalat, the surreal Buddhist monastery on Myanmar's Mount Popa

Mount Popa might as well have been Mount Doom. It loomed on our bike route, taunting me with defeat. As a new cyclist (and certainly the weakest in our group), I found the prospect of cycling 83 km (52 ​​miles) uphill under the blazing Burmese sun more than a little daunting.

Luckily, our support vehicle was always nearby, offering both comfort (“I'm here if you need me”) and seduction (“You can cancel right away if you want”). The latter proved to be too much and I soon gave in, swapping two wheels for four as the group struggled on.

alt=“Mount Popa”>Atlas & BootsThe summit of Mount Popa

By the time we reached the summit, five of the nine cyclists on our G-Adventures tour had opted for the bus. Suddenly I didn't feel so weak anymore.

We settled into the Mount Popa Resort, where we caught our first glimpse of Taung Kalat, the surreal Buddhist monastery built atop a volcanic cone on the slopes of Mount Popa.

At first glance, bathed in the afternoon sun, the monastery was both wondrous and absurd. The splash of golden stupas surrounded by steep rocks was reminiscent of fairy tales and fortresses. Here was the perfect symbol of Myanmar: spiritual, remote, dramatic, unknown.

alt="Taung Kalat seen from Mount Popa">Atlas & BootsTaung Kalat seen from Mount Popa Resort

Taung Kalat, the name of the rock formation itself, rises 170 m (558 ft) above the slope of Mount Popa, the 1,518 m (4,980 ft) volcano on which it stands. Volcanic plugs like Taung Kalat form when magma hardens in a vent of an active volcano. Luckily, Mount Popa is no longer active; its last eruption was in 442 BC. BC, say experts.

Today, Mount Popa and Taung Kalat are considered sacred sites, home to 37 revered “nats” (spirits). The monastery at the top is reached via 777 steps - not an easy task after a bike ride on Mount Popa!

The stairwell winds past vendors and hawkers and swoops past groups of monkeys, boldly grabbing a snack or trinket if given half a chance. On the way to the summit, tourists and pilgrims are asked to remove their socks and shoes before continuing. (Storage boxes are available for a few kyat.) Visitors may want to bring change for the sweepers on the stairs, who often ask for tips.

alt="Golden Temple on Mount Popa">Atlas & BootsAt the summit of Taung Kalat

At the summit, the colorful complex of stupas and temples offers a worthy diversion, but the real attraction is the view. Mount Popa's fertile volcanic soil is covered in trees, herbs and prickly bush, and its deep valleys provide a modest oasis in the middle of Myanmar's arid central zone.

It is said that on a clear day you can see the iconic site of Bagan 50 km (31 miles) to the northwest, as well as the Irrawaddy River not far behind. Unfortunately, the famous Burmese haze cut our visibility in half.

alt="View from Taung Kalat to Mount Popa">Atlas & BootsThe view from Taung Kalat

Many tourists visit the monastery on a day trip from Bagan - lured by vivid images of the fairytale site - and I can understand why some leave underwhelmed. Neither the monastery itself nor the view from Taung Kalat are the most impressive things about Mount Popa. Rather, it is the view into Taung Kalat from a distance. A quick stay at the base and a sprint to the top offers none of the magic of seeing it from afar.

alt="Sunset over Taung Kalat at Mount Popa">Atlas & BootsSunset over Taung Kalat

Luckily we had a full night at Mount Popa Resort. With cycling gloves off and cocktails in hand, we settled in to watch the sunset - a well-deserved reward after 83km to reach this enchanting place!

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Mount Popa Monastery: the essentials

What: Visit Mount Popa and Taung Kalat as part of a 13-day cycling tour of Myanmar (Burma).

Where: The tour began in Yangon, the country's largest metropolis, before heading north to Inle Lake, Pindaya and Mandalay, then to central Myanmar with Mount Popa and the Irrawaddy River before ending in Bagan.

Accommodation included 10 nights in comfortable tourist class hotels, one night in a guest house and one night in a monastery (classified as homestay).

When: The best time to visit Myanmar is from October to March, when the monsoon has subsided and temperatures are pleasant. It gets very hot in the country from April to May. The central regions where Bagan and Mandalay are located can reach temperatures of over 40°C - not ideal for cycling!

From May to September there are heavy rains with the southwest monsoon. During this time, roads may become impassable, particularly from July to September. From October the rains decrease.

How: We booked G Adventures' 13-day Myanmar bike tour, priced from €2,499 (US$2,730) per person.

The price includes all accommodation, 12 breakfasts, four lunches, one dinner, bike rental (including helmets and water bottles), domestic flights, transportation, an amazing Chief Experience Officer throughout the trip, and additional support staff including experienced guides, mechanics, and drivers.

For more information or to book, call 0344 272 2040 or visit gadventures.co.uk.

Please note that prices do not include international flights and there are no direct flights from the UK. However, several airlines offer one-stop flights from London Heathrow via Dubai, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore or Bangkok. Book via skyscanner.net.

If you're considering a bike tour somewhere, check out our five tips for bike travelers.

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Lonely Planet Myanmar is a comprehensive travel guide to Myanmar, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Disclosure: We traveled to Myanmar with support from G Adventures. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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