Lone Ranger: Riding in Montenegro

Lone Ranger: Riding in Montenegro

While Peter went climbing in Russia, I decided to do something much more enjoyable: horse riding in Montenegro

I was alone in more ways than one. This was my first time traveling without Peter this year; I was the only non-French speaker on our seven-night tour; I was the only vegetarian in the group; and I was by far the least experienced driver.

'Whatever,' I thought on the first day. I could spend the week improving my riding and my French at the same time.

As it turns out, the only vocabulary I learned was the French word for leek (poireau), but my driving skills improved by leaps and bounds (literally) despite a few bumps along the way.

My relative lack of experience became immediately apparent when we met our horses for the first time on Day 2. I greeted Vranac, a strong male coated in dark chocolate, and began stroking his mane.

alt=“A trio of horses grazing on our riding trip in Montenegro”>Atlas & BootsA trio of our horses

Meanwhile, my fellow riders picked up bristle brushes and hoof pickers and began grooming their horses with fluid efficiency. I had taken a dozen riding lessons in the past, but had never cleaned hooves before.

Luckily, Anne, a petite pensioner in leather boots and a cowboy hat, came to my rescue. She showed me how to tickle Vranac's leg to get him to lift his hooves and helped me clean them properly.

Satisfied with my efforts, I climbed Vranac and soon we were on our way. I was immediately impressed by the landscape. I had chosen the trip mainly because it coincided with Peter's climb in Russia, and I had no idea that riding in Montenegro would be so beautiful.

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We spent the morning meandering through yellow berry meadows under the gently warming sun. The yawning landscape was perfect for riding: lush, colorful and fertile.

After four hours in the saddle, we stopped for lunch, and as I watched the riders secure their horses with a quick-release knot, I felt an acute inability.

As Peter will tell you, I have an inexplicable problem with gauges, fasteners, zippers, buckles, knots and locks (if this is a known disability, someone please tell me because I feel like an idiot). Needless to say, I had difficulty tying the knot, especially since I had never done one before. One of my passengers – this time Mathilde – came to my rescue and helped me tie (and re-tie) the required knot.

alt=“Horse riding in Montenegro”>Atlas & BootsMy attempt at the quick release knot

We had a hearty lunch of kačamak (warm and buttery cornmeal mixed with local cheese) and punjena peppers (peppers stuffed with meat, rice and tomatoes), followed by rakija, a colorless brandy with 40% alcohol!

Soon we were ready to drive again. Back on our horses, we roamed through rolling pastures until the youngest rider in the group persuaded our guide to let us canter.

As we set off, Vranac - eager to gallop - flew past the horse in front. My lack of experience came to the fore again when I couldn't contain him and he charged forward. Adrenaline was pounding in my ears and my mind flashed back to my riding lessons for their most important rule: always stay calm. With that in mind, I relaxed my stance, then pulled and loosened and pulled and loosened the reins until Vranac calmed down again.

alt="Typical scenes on our ride in Montenegro">Atlas & BootsTypical scenes while riding in Montenegro

After the day's drama was over, we made it through the rest of the afternoon without incident or accidents. This came on day 3. It happened on a mountain pass on a piece of steep rock. Our horses navigated slowly and carefully around the rocks. I patted Vranac to reassure him that he was doing a good job. Unfortunately, he lost his footing on a particularly slippery section and fell onto his left side.

Vranac took most of the impact, but I also hit the ground and was partially pinned underneath him. I felt a sharp rush of panic as he stood upright and I lost the reins, my left foot still in the stirrup. If he decided to run away, I would be dragged over the rocks. Vranac took a few unsteady steps forward, but then mercifully stopped. I shook my foot free and stood up quickly to avoid being kicked.

Our lead guide, Millena, dismounted and examined my bones and bruises. Everyone (me most) was relieved to see that Vranac and I were fine. I wasn't in pain, but it was the first time I'd fallen off a horse, and when I held up one hand I noticed it was shaking. My shock soon turned to embarrassment and I was grateful for Millena's matter-of-fact tone as she told me to get back on the horse. After all, we were in the mountains and couldn't cover the distance on foot.

Zipline recordings: Mathilde Coolen

I hit my lowest point on Day 4. I was sore from riding, bruised from the fall, and hot and bothered by my long-sleeved top, which left me stewing in the heat. As we sat down for lunch, the conversation flowing around me in French, I silently counted the remaining days of driving. Can I really stay in the saddle for three more days? Could my tired calves have endured another 15 hours of driving? Could my British sensibilities endure three more days of amateur embarrassment?

Luckily, things took a turn for the better that afternoon. Millenna swapped my strong, spirited horse for a calmer, gentler one. Riding suddenly became a dream. My new horse Mališa was calm and docile, and I was happy to join the slower contingent at the back of the group.

alt="Riding Tips: Always Wear a Helmet">Atlas & BootsSmiling again after a strenuous morning ride in Montenegro

By day 5 the soreness subsided and I started to enjoy the ride. Over the past few days my fellow riders have been very helpful in improving my technique. I now felt stronger and more confident than ever before. We drove past sparkling green lakes and soaring mountain passes through the dramatic Durmitor National Park and, my god, it was breathtaking.

Soon I had enough confidence to canter again and understood why the group was always so eager to go faster. The moment a horse changes gait and bolts away at high speed is absolutely thrilling. It tears through your sinews and sparks through your blood until you think you'll literally run out of breath.

Video: Mathilde Coolen

After six days of riding, we spent our final day rafting on the Tara River and ziplining across the Tara River Canyon, which is 82 km long and 1,300 m (4,300 ft) long at its deepest point. As the week ended and I prepared for my last night in Montenegro, I reflected on the week's events.

There had been ups and downs and at times I feared that I simply wasn't experienced enough for the journey, but my fellow passengers' patience was endless and their guidance invaluable. They helped me through the cuts and bruises and literal missteps. They got me through the low point from Day 4 to Day 6 when I was able to fully enjoy the thrill, freedom and unspeakable joy of riding one with a horse. It is no exaggeration to say that I have rarely felt more alive.

Horse riding in Montenegro: the essentials

What: Horseback riding in Montenegro with Unicorn Trails. The seven-night mountain and sea ride includes six days in the saddle and covers a total of 130km to 150km (four to seven hours of riding per day).

Where: We stayed in a mix of eco-huts and mountain huts, mostly with shared bathrooms. Drivers can request private rooms, but this cannot be guaranteed as there is limited accommodation in the mountains.

alt=“Our first and last overnight stay”>Atlas & BootsOur first and last night

The rooms are warm and cozy and the food is plentiful. Vegetarians can be catered for with prior notice (remind your guide of this upon arrival).

When: The best time for horse riding in Montenegro is June to September when the weather is warm and sunny. Make sure you pack layers and a raincoat as the mountains can get cold and rainy even in mid-summer.

How: I went horse riding in Montenegro with Unicorn Trails, a specialized tour operator with almost 20 years of experience in horse riding holidays. I chose Unicorn Trails because of their commitment to responsible tourism in the industry. The company was founded by a veterinarian and horse lover and therefore takes a proactive approach to responsible tourism. Check out their trips to Montenegro here or explore the full list of destinations. Tel: 01767 600 606, Email: info@unicorntrails.com.

Several international airlines fly to Montenegro. I had a super early flight so I booked a night at the ibis Styles London Heathrow Airport. The rooms are quiet, comfortable and stylish (as the name suggests). There's free high-speed WiFi, an on-site restaurant and – best of all – express buses to Heathrow terminals 24 hours a day. I left at 4:10am and was past security exactly 23 minutes later: perfect for a late night or an early start!

Book flights at the best prices through skyscanner.net.

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Lonely Planet Montenegro is a comprehensive travel guide to Montenegro, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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