Cycling Bagan: Highlights and route map

Cycling Bagan: Highlights and route map

We spent our last day in Myanmar cycling through Bagan, the world's largest and densest collection of Buddhist temples, pagodas, stupas and ruins

After cycling over 250 km (155 miles) across Myanmar, including an 83 km (52 ​​mile) ride to Mount Popa, the final day of our Myanmar bike tour – just 25 km (15 miles) around the temples of Bagan – became a breeze.

Despite the short distances, the Burmese sun shone strongly and with it came the hazy Burmese heat. Luckily, with over 2,000 Buddhist structures spread across 104 square kilometers (40 square miles), relief was regularly available in the cool and airy stone temples.

Founded in the second century AD, the Kingdom of Bagan once had over 10,000 Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries, all built between the 11th and 13th centuries.

Because it is located in an active seismic zone, Bagan has suffered many earthquakes over the centuries, the most recent of which in 2016 destroyed over 400 buildings and damaged hundreds more. Today, the remains of “only” 2,000 temples and pagodas can still be seen, many of which are being repaired and restored.

Seeing this iconic site by bike is a great way to be right among the ruins. At ground level, it is easier to move between sites along smaller, quieter roads that tour buses cannot access. Only at this level do you really get a feel for how many structures there are. On every corner, behind every group of trees, there is an ancient temple or pagoda waiting to be rediscovered again and again.

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Below we look at the highlights of cycling in Bagan and provide a list of must-see attractions, along with a simple route map to get you started.

Cycling Bagan: route

The Google map below includes several key landmarks as well as other sights we discovered while cycling in Bagan. We visited Shwesandaw Paya to watch the sunset on the evening we arrived, Thitsawadi Paya for the sunrise the next morning and the Old Bagan Pier for a sunset cruise on the Irrawaddy River on our final evening.

Dhammayazika Paya

The magnificent 12th century Dhammayazika Paya is hard to miss. Its huge, golden, bell-shaped pagoda, mounted on terracotta terraces, sparkles in the twilight and rises proudly above the surrounding plains. It was badly damaged in the 2016 earthquake and was off-limits during our trip. We were still able to catch a glimpse of the impressive structure, although it was from a distance and scaffolding partially obscured our view.

alt="Dhammayazika">Atlas & BootsDhammayazika was badly damaged in the 2016 earthquake and was closed during our visit

Dhammayangyi Pahto

This huge walled temple is visible from everywhere in Bagan and is the widest of all. It is famous for its surreal, dimly lit, bricked-up interior passageways, which visitors can wander through at will.

It is said that King Narathu built the temple in the 12th century to atone for his terrible sins: he murdered his father and brother and executed his wife, an Indian princess, for practicing Hindu rituals. It is the best-preserved temple in Bagan and features detailed mortar work in its upper levels.

alt="Cycling-Bagan-Overview-1-Dhammayangyi">Atlas & BootsDhammayangyi Pahto is visible from everywhere in Bagan

alt="Kia wanders through the atmospheric corridors">Atlas & BootsKia wanders through the atmospheric corridors

Paya Thone Zu

Recently renovated, Paya Thone Zu is unique as it is the only temple in Bagan that consists of three temples connected by narrow passages. The interior of the temple contains numerous wall paintings, many of which are incomplete as it is believed that the temples were hastily abandoned before completion due to the Mongol invasion of Burma in the 13th century.

alt="Paya Thone Zu is the only temple in Bagan that consists of three interconnected temples">Atlas & BootsPaya Thone Zu is the only temple in Bagan that consists of three interconnected temples

Shwezigon Paya

This huge gold-plated temple in the nearby town of Nyaung-U is the city's most important religious site. The main pagoda is believed to contain a bone and a tooth of Gautama Buddha.

There are four shrines at the cardinal points, each housing a 4 m high standing bronze Buddha. Cast in 1102, they are Bagan's largest surviving bronze Buddhas. On a hot and sunny day the gold leaf and reflective stone floor is almost blinding. Be sure to wear sunglasses!

alt="Cycling-Bagan-Shwezigon-Paya">Atlas & BootsPaya is believed to contain a bone and a tooth of Gautama Buddha

Ananda Pahto

Ananda Pahto was partially damaged during the 2016 earthquake but remains open to visitors. The temple is one of the most beautiful, largest and best preserved of all Bagan temples.

Completed in 1105 – over 900 years ago – the iconic structure towers 50 m (170 ft) above the surrounding plains. It's a popular spot, so there are many hawkers on site selling souvenirs such as books, postcards and oil paintings, but don't let that stop you from visiting.

alt="Ananda Pahto is one of the most beautiful, largest and best preserved of all Bagan temples">Atlas & BootsAnanda Pahto is one of the most beautiful, largest and best preserved of all Bagan temples

Shwesandaw Paya

On the day we arrived in Bagan, we had just enough time to check into our hotel and take a quick shower before heading out to enjoy the sunset over one of the world's most famous views.

The graceful Shwesandaw Paya is Bagan's most famous and popular spot to watch the sunset. During the day, however, you'll likely have the place all to yourself, making it an ideal spot for temple panoramas and photography.

alt="Shwesandaw Paya is Bagan's most famous and popular place to watch the sunset">Atlas & BootsShwesandaw Paya is Bagan's most famous and popular spot to watch the sunset

Thitsawadi Paya

Thitsawadi Paya is a rare three-story building – most in Bagan are only two stories – making it another ideal spot for sunsets and sunrises. There are excellent views of the nearby Dhammayazika Paya and Sulamani Temple, as well as countless stupas.

alt="Thitsawadi Paya is another ideal spot for sunsets or sunrises">Atlas & BootsThitsawadi Paya is another ideal spot for sunsets or sunrises

Cruise on the Irrawaddy River

Popular Irrawaddy river cruises depart from Old Bagan Pier and offer an alternative view of the region. We didn't get to see Bagan's endless sea of ​​stupas, but it was a great way to end our day of cycling. A 1.5-hour river cruise takes you to the opposite bank before drifting calmly back with the current as the sun sets over the water.

alt="Irrawaddy River cruises depart from Old Bagan Pier">Atlas & BootsIrrawaddy River cruises depart from Old Bagan Pier

Cycling Bagan: the essentials

What: We cycled Bagan as part of a 13 day cycle tour of Myanmar (Burma).

Where: The tour began in Yangon, the country's largest metropolis, before heading north to Inle Lake, Pindaya and Mandalay, then to central Myanmar with Mount Popa and the Irrawaddy River before ending in Bagan.

Accommodation included 10 nights in comfortable tourist class hotels, one night in a guest house and one night in a monastery (classified as homestay).

When: The best time to visit Myanmar is from October to March, when the monsoon has subsided and temperatures are pleasant. It gets very hot in the country from April to May. The central regions where Bagan and Mandalay are located can reach temperatures of over 40°C - not ideal for cycling!

From May to September there are heavy rains with the southwest monsoon. During this time, roads may become impassable, particularly from July to September. From October the rains decrease.

How: We booked G Adventures' 13-day Myanmar bike tour, priced from €2,499 (US$2,730) per person. The price includes all accommodation, 12 breakfasts, four lunches, one dinner, bike rental (including helmets and water bottles), domestic flights, transportation, an amazing Chief Experience Officer throughout the trip, and additional support staff including experienced guides, mechanics, and drivers.

For more information or to book, call 0344 272 2040 or visit gadventures.co.uk.

Please note that prices do not include international flights and there are no direct flights from the UK. However, several airlines offer one-stop flights from London Heathrow via Dubai, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore or Bangkok. Book via skyscanner.net.

If you're considering a bike tour somewhere, check out our five tips for bike travelers.

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Lonely Planet Myanmar is a comprehensive travel guide to Myanmar, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Disclosure: We traveled to Myanmar with support from G Adventures. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

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