Hiking at Great Shunner Fell: my first Valleys 30”

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The hike to Great Shunner Fell was my first of the Dales 30, the highest peaks in the Yorkshire Dales. One down, 29 to go... As many of you know, Kia and I recently moved to the country. It took eight years, but I was finally able to convince Kia that life is better away from the busy south. So we moved to the small and charming market town of Richmond on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The best part of our move for me is not only the joys of Richmond, but also the easy access to the countryside right on our doorstep. …

Hiking at Great Shunner Fell: my first Valleys 30”

The hike to Great Shunner Fell was my first of the Dales 30, the highest peaks in the Yorkshire Dales. One less, 29 to go...

As many of you know, Kia and I recently moved to the country. It took eight years, but I was finally able to convince Kia that life is better away from the busy south. So we moved to the small and charming market town of Richmond on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

The best part of our move for me is not only the joys of Richmond, but also the easy access to the countryside right on our doorstep. It takes five minutes to drive into the national park, one of Britain's 15 reprieves, while at the end of our road there is a footpath along the River Swale that takes us into the park in just 15 minutes.

After a few weeks of settling in and sampling the town's many tearooms, it was time for some real hiking in the Dales.

Introducing the Dales 30

With all this landscape waiting to be explored, I didn't know where to start. Luckily we attended an evening at the Richmond Walking & Book Festival where local walking guide Jonathan Smith of Where2walk spoke about his book The Dales 30.

The Dales 30 are the 30 peaks in the Yorkshire Dales above 610 m (2,000 ft) - considered the general classification of a mountain in the British Isles - and also have a height difference of at least 30 m (98.4 ft) on all sides. Jonathan has written a detailed travel guide to Dales 30, filled with recommended routes, maps, facts and anecdotes.

alt=“Hiking the Great Shunner Fell by Thwaite 12″>Atlas & BootsJonathan from Where2walk has written a guide to the Dales 30

They may not be as dramatic as the Munros of Scotland or as popular as the Lake District Wainwrights, but the Dales 30 make up a fine section of England's highest mountain range, the Pennines.

The mountains and their summit trails also showcase some of the most remote and picturesque landscapes England has to offer. The Dales 30 in particular is the perfect opportunity for me to get to grips with the wilderness of my new home.

rank Mountain Height (m) Height (ft)
1 Where 736 2,415
2 Ingleborough 724 2,375
3 Great Shunner fur 716 2,349
4 High seat 709 2,326
5 Wild boar fur 708 2,323
6 Great Whernside 704 2,310
7 Buckden Pike 702 2,303
8 Pen-y-Ghent 694 2,277
9 Great cum 687 2,254
10 Swarth for 681 2,234
11 Plover for 680 2,231
12 Baugh fur, camouflage rigging 678 2,224
13 The calf 676 2,218
14 Nice seat 675 2,215
fifteen Calders 674 2,212
16 Big Knoutberry Hill 672 2,205
17 Rogan's seat 672 2,205
18 Dodd fell Hill 668 2,192
19 Well fur 668 2,192
20 Little fur 667 2,188
21 Simon's Fell, Ingleborough 656 2,133
22 Yockenthwaite Moor 643 2,110
23 Head for 640 2,100
24 Yarlside 639 2,096
25 Gragareth 628 2,060
26 Darnbrook fell 624 2,047
27 Randy Gill great 624 2,047
28 Drumaldrace, weather fell 614 2,014
29 Birks fur 610 2,001
30 Calf top 610 2,000

Great Shunner fell

I decided to kick things off with a hike to Great Shunner Fell in the Northern Dales between Wensleydale and Swaledale. Great Shunner Fell is the third highest peak on the Dales 30 list at 716 m (2,340 ft).

Great Shunner Fell is conveniently located on the Pennine Way, a 429km national footpath that runs from the Peak District across the Yorkshire Dales to the Scottish border. This means that much of the hiking route is on a clearly defined and well-trodden path with little room for error.

alt=“Hiking the Great Shunner Fell by Thwaite 18″>Atlas & BootsGreat Shunner Fell is conveniently located on the Pennine Way

The relatively gentle but steady climb initially winds up a rocky path along dry stone walls before opening onto more boggy outcrops and moorland. The trail is easy to follow throughout and is regularly marked by cairns, particularly as you approach the summit.

At the summit there is a large cross-shaped windbreak and a triangulation pillar. Here it is possible to protect yourself from the wind, no matter which direction it blows, and enjoy a wide view over the surrounding moorland.

alt=“Hiking the Great Shunner Fell by Thwaite 8″>Atas & BootsThe summit of Great Shunner Fell

To the west you can see the Howgill Fells in the foreground and further back the foothills of the Lake District Fells. It is also possible to see the cairns of Nine Standards Rigg to the north along with the road to the Tan Hill Inn, Britain's highest pub.

To the south there are views over Swaledale (our home valley), Lovely Seat, Buckden Pike and the peaks of Pen-y-Ghent, Ingleborough and Whernside, which form the Yorkshire Three Peaks.

Hiking the Great Shunner Fell from Thwaite

Altitude: 716 m (2,340 ft) Distance: 11 km Duration: 2-3 hours

There are several route options for walks to Great Shunner Fell, with the most popular starting from the villages of Hawes, Hardraw and Thwaite. I started and finished in Thwaite, an easy straight up and down path along the Pennine Way that crosses the village.

A popular option is to combine the hike to Great Shunner Fell with the Lovely Seat, another Dales 30 peak nearby.

Hiking in Great Shunner Fell: the essentials

What: Hiking the Great Shunner Fell from Thwaite in the Yorkshire Dales National Park, England.

Where: We live in the nearby market town of Richmond, on the eastern edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. There are numerous accommodation options, from campsites to luxury hotels, throughout the national park and in surrounding towns and villages.

The best way to find accommodation is to use the interactive maps section on the Yorkshire Dales website or similarly via Booking.com.

When: Unfortunately, complete dryness is rarely guaranteed in England, but the best time for hiking in Great Shunner Fell and the Yorkshire Dales is June to August. It is without a doubt the driest and warmest time of the year.

However, it is also high season and availability could be an issue, particularly during the school holidays from late July to August. The shoulder season (April to May and September to October) is also a good time to visit, although the weather will invariably be colder and wetter.

How: There are many ways to explore the Yorkshire Dales. The national park is small enough to explore on foot or by bike if you're not in a hurry to get from one place to another. Because there is plenty of parking everywhere, many prefer to travel through the park by car, stopping at villages and trailheads.

There are local transportation options such as train, bus and coach. For the latest information on accessing the Yorkshire Dales, see the transport section of their website.
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