Visiting Eswatini: Why this tiny country blew me away

Visiting Eswatini: Why this tiny country blew me away

Visiting Eswatini was never at the top of my bucket list. How foolish of me

I won't lie: visiting Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) was a must-do. Located between South Africa and Mozambique, this dot on the map offered Peter the opportunity to tick off another country to qualify for the Century Club.

I was less enthusiastic. We only had 11 days to see South Africa and trying to squeeze in Lesotho and Eswatini seemed a bit excessive. Peter insisted it was possible, so I reluctantly said yes.

As it turned out, visiting Eswatini was one of the best travel experiences I've ever had. Here's why it punches way above its weight.

Best chance to see rhinos in Africa

I was sad to leave nearby Namibia without seeing a rhino. It was at the top of my bucket list and after 17 amazing days on safari, it was bittersweet to leave the country with my hopes unfulfilled.

Keyword Eswatini. Over the course of our three-day visit, we saw 13 (!) rhinos, including two of the elusive black variety. In fact, within five minutes of arriving at our first meeting point, we saw two rhinos loitering nearby. Admittedly, this was a bit of a cheat because the rhinos were orphaned and hand-raised, but the others were actually wild.

Eswatini is proud of its work to protect rhinos. The country has lost only three in the last 24 years, compared to two to three per day in South Africa.

According to Lonely Planet, Eswatini offers some of the best rhino encounters on the entire continent. It certainly didn't disappoint. In fact, seeing a mother and baby rhino together was one of our most magical wildlife experiences.

Wild animals at the bed

We split our stay across three big game parks: Mkhaya, Hlane and Mlilwane with overnight stays in the first and last.

At Mkhaya we had antelopes wandering right in front of our cozy rondavel. The thatched stone structure had open walls, perfect for spotting wildlife from our bed.

• alt=“Besuch in Eswatini: mhkaya“>
• alt=“zu besuch in eswatini: unsere unterkunft für die nacht“>
• alt=“besuch in eswatini: bequeme unterkünfte“>
• alt=“Besuch in Eswatini: komfortable Unterkunft“>
• alt=“zu besuch in eswatini: unser bett mit moskitonetz“>
• alt=“zu besuch in eswatini: unser balkonbereich“>
• alt=“zu besuch in eswatini: eine antilope wandert vorbei“>

Mlilwane, on the western side of the country, had equally charming accommodations, including large "beehive" structures built from natural materials. There we found a warthog with two small babies lounging outside on the grass.

• alt=“typische Szenen bei einem Besuch in Eswatini“>
• alt=“ein aufenthalt in einem bienenstock ist bei einem besuch in eswatini üblich“>
• alt=“im Bienenstock“>
• alt=“in unserem Bienenstock“>
• alt=“draußen räkeln sich zwei Warzenschweine“>
• alt=“Ansichten bei einem Besuch in Eswatini“>
• alt=“ein Krokodil in Eswatini“>
• alt=“ein herzliches willkommen in eswatini“>

optimism

In April 2018, King Mswati III announced that his country would henceforth be known as the Kingdom of Eswatini to celebrate 50 years of independence from British rule.

Some say this is a ploy to distract from the country's problems - two-thirds of its population lives below the poverty line and it has the highest prevalence rate of HIV/AIDS in the world - but many welcome the opportunity to shake off the country's legacy of colonial rule and make a fresh start.

It would be wrong to comment on the mood of the nation after just three days in the country. What we can say anecdotally is that there seems to be a strong optimism and belief that things will get better. Tourism is a key component in improving Eswatini’s economy and we felt nothing but welcome in “Africa’s Newest Kingdom”.

A feeling of fun

If you want to make a Brit uncomfortable, force them to choose between audience participation and rejection, which borders on rudeness. I agreed and chose the former, and found myself kicking my legs high in the air to the beat of a drum next to a fire in Mkhaya.

alt="If you visit Eswatini, you may have to attend a dance or two">Atlas & BootsActor at Mhkaya

Of course, at first it was humiliating and seemingly endless, but as the mood lightened, my fake laughter became real. The fun among the performers was irresistible and eventually all but two audience members joined in. (I would like to note that Peter was one of the two dissenters; the same Peter who suggested visiting Eswatini in the first place.)

Lush landscape

Despite its small size (17,364 km2), Eswatini is home to a variety of landscapes, from thorny bushland to forested gorges. For a landlocked country it also feels incredibly green.

alt="a warm welcome to eswatini">Atlas & BootsA friendly welcome in Mlilwane

Mlilwane offers a network of hiking trails and plenty of adventure in the picturesque Ezulwini Valley (Valley of Heaven), flanked by dramatic mountain scenery and the vast Usuthu Forest stretching into the distance. We only spent one night there and wished we had longer to explore the area.

Far off the beaten path

We've been to quite a few little-known countries, including Vanuatu, Tonga, Djibouti and St. Kitts. Visiting Eswatini reminded us why we love getting off the beaten path.

alt=“A visit to Eswatini is your best chance to see rhinos in Africa”>Atlas & BootsRhinos lounging around Hlane without a soul in sight

Small group outings, intimate dwellings, a slower pace of movement, and a general sense of calm are more likely in places like this. The fact that we saw four rhinos lounging under a tree with no one in sight except our guide Manqoba was truly special. A visit to Eswatini offers a wealth of these experiences.

So much more to see

Our three-day stay covered the main highlights of Eswatini, but there is so much more to see. We would like to return to explore Mlilwane and visit Sibebe Rock, the second largest monolith (a single piece of rock) in the world behind Australia's Uluru.

alt="Sibebe Rock in Eswatini">Fair useSibebe Rocks

Eswatini is also home to the world's oldest mine. Ngwenya has been mined since the Stone Age and its iron ore deposits form one of the oldest geological formations in the world.

Add traditional crafts, lively festivals, quirky museums and a variety of outdoor activities and you have one of the most interesting countries on the continent and beyond.

Visiting Eswatini: Tips

• Wenn Sie in Mkhaya übernachten, kommen Sie nicht zu spät, aber auch nicht mehr als eine halbe Stunde zu früh, da Sie außerhalb der vorab vereinbarten Besprechungszeiten keinen Zutritt zum Park erhalten. Warten Sie in Phuzumoya (im Wesentlichen eine Ansammlung kleiner Geschäfte am Straßenrand), anstatt bis zu den Toren zu fahren. Packen Sie eine Reisetasche mit langen Hosen und geschlossenen Schuhen, da Sie möglicherweise Ihr Hauptgepäck verstauen müssen.
• Wenn Sie selbst fahren, mieten Sie einen 4×4, da es eine Strecke von Mkhaya nach Hlane mit vielen Schlaglöchern gibt. Beachten Sie, dass Sie, wenn Sie aus Südafrika anreisen, ein Genehmigungsschreiben Ihrer Autovermietung benötigen, das Ihnen die Einreise nach Eswatini erlaubt (unser Schreiben kostet 550 ZAR / 40 USD). Wir fühlten uns beim Fahren in Eswatini absolut sicher. Sie werden vielleicht bemerken, dass einige Autos ihre Lichter blinken lassen; Dies sind Taxis im Colectivo-Stil und können ignoriert werden.
• Wenn Sie auf Safari sind, machen Sie sich klar, was Sie sehen möchten, besonders wenn Sie auf einem privaten Ausflug sind und eine Freikarte haben, um sich Zeit zu nehmen.
• Informieren Sie Ihre Unterkunft im Voraus, wenn Sie Vegetarier sind oder andere Ernährungsbedürfnisse haben.
• Bleiben Sie länger als drei Tage, wenn Ihr Zeitplan es zulässt.
• Versehen Sie Ihren Besuch nicht mit Geo-Tags und teilen Sie keine Live-Updates, da Wilderer diese Informationen möglicherweise verwenden können, um Nashörner zu lokalisieren.

Visiting Eswatini: the essentials

What: Visit Eswatini (Swaziland) on a self-drive through the country.

Where: We split our time between three big game parks:

Mkhaya Game Reserve: This collection of comfortable open-walled stone houses offers up-close encounters with nearby wildlife. Mkhaya has been described as the best chance to see black rhinos in the African wild. It certainly didn't disappoint.

Hlane Royal National Park: We didn't stay at Ndlovu Camp in Hlane, but we had one of the best safaris of our lives. Even if you are passing through, take time for a safari here.

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary: We stayed in a “beehive” in Mlilwane. Game drives are possible here, as are a variety of outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling and horse riding.

Book online with Big Game Parks, by email at reservations@biggameparks.org or by phone at +268 2528 3943/4 or +268 7677 6772.

When: The best time to visit Eswatini is the dry winter months from May to September, when low vegetation and dwindling water sources make it particularly easy to spot game.

October to March is hot and wet, but don't let that put you off. The landscape is lush and green, allowing for haze-free photos, and given Eswatini's small size, game is rarely too difficult to spot.

How: We rented a car from Avis in Durban, South Africa and visited Eswatini on a three-day self-drive tour with stops in Mkhaya, Hlane and Mlilwane before re-entering South Africa en route to Johannesburg. Note that you will need a letter from your car company allowing you to enter Eswatini (for an additional fee of approximately ZAR 550 / USD 40).

Driving in Eswatini is not difficult, apart from a stretch between Mkhaya and Hlane where dozens of potholes severely slowed our progress. It was just navigable in our 2WD but should really be tackled in 4WD.

We flew to South Africa with South African Airways. Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

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Lonely Planet South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland is a comprehensive travel guide to Eswatini, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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