Dallol: Visiting the hottest place on earth

Dallol: Visiting the hottest place on earth

We visit Dallol, a collapsed volcanic crater full of acidic pools, toxic chlorine and sulfur gases in the Danakil Depression in Ethiopia.

I wasn't intimidated by the prospect of visiting Dallol, dubbed the hottest place on earth. Although temperatures regularly reached 45°C (113°F), I knew that Dallol would be a walk in the park after visiting the region's Erta Ale volcano - if the park were a collapsed volcanic crater filled with acidic pools and geysers, toxic chlorine and sulfur gases.

Dallol lies 116 m (380 ft) below sea level in the Danakil Depression of the Afar region of Ethiopia and is part of the East African Rift, where three continental plates are being torn apart.

alt="Dallol is one of the hottest and deepest places on earth">Atlas & BootsDallol is one of the hottest and deepest places on earth

Dallol itself is a dizzying riot of color, created by rain and seawater from the nearby coast and heated by magma. The sea salt reacts with volcanic minerals in the magma and creates bright colors. In the hottest pools, sulfur and salt react to form bright yellow chimneys. In cooler pools, copper salts mix in vibrant turquoise.

alt="Salt and volcanic minerals create vibrant colors at Dallol">Atlas & BootsSalt and volcanic minerals create vibrant colors in Dallol

I had my doubts about Dallol. I thought that the colors - like the brilliant green of the Northern Lights - wouldn't appear quite as vivid to the naked eye as they did in camera.

The fluorescent yellows and deep-sea greens were certainly an illusion concocted by the wide apertures and long exposures of skilled photographers.

Not like that. As Dallol comes into view on the parched horizon of the Danakil Desert, I see that the colors are very real.

It is clear that Dallol could be a scene from another planet. In fact, it is unique to us. While it is somewhat similar to active hydrothermal zones such as Yellowstone in the United States, it is much hotter and much more acidic. In fact, the water here has an average pH of 0.2 - almost unmatched in nature.

Of course the heat is noticeable. It doesn't just shine from the sun; it hisses through the vents, sizzles in the sulfur puddles and hits the ground with force. The smell is sometimes overwhelming and covers our throats like cloth.

Fighting the heat and gas, we spend an hour exploring the site, accompanied of course by our guide, Haftu, and a two-man military escort, mandatory in the Danakil Depression.

Sometimes the delicate salt crust crackles beneath our feet and Haftu pushes us away from the edge. If we were to fall into the 100°C (212°F) acidic water, there would be little help at hand. The nearest hospital is hours away in Mekele.

Here, in Dallol, it is not difficult to believe Ethiopia's claim to the cradle of humanity. Here in the Danakil Depression, scientists discovered Lucy, the oldest and most complete hominid ever found.

Lucy has undergone extensive research and testing, but here at Dallol little evidence of her existence is needed. Standing in the midst of this mystical primordial world, it seems entirely possible that not only death but life itself could rise from the depths of Dallol.

Sights and scenes around Dallol

Those heading to Dallol should be aware that it is a day's drive from Erta Ale. We booked a 3 day, 2 night tour and spent the first day in Erta Ale, the second day driving to Dallol and the third day exploring Dallol and surrounding attractions.

That's not to say that the second day is a waste of time. We stopped at the salt flats of Lake Asale and observed extraordinary scenes of camels being led across the salt road.

After Dallol, we explored "mountains" formed by salt deposits, a salt mine manned by Afar people, oily bubbling lakes, and mirageous waters emerging from cracks in the earth - all a worthy bonus to Dallol itself.

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Atlas & Boots

Dallol: The essentials

What: Visiting Dallol, Ethiopia as part of a 2-day, 3-day tour of the Danakil Depression.

Where: Our tour of the Danakil Depression was booked with a stay at Wukro Lodge in the town of Wukro. This cozy eco-lodge uses solar energy and offers traditional décor and excellent views of the surrounding hills. There's free Wi-Fi in public areas, a bar and restaurant on-site, and a pool under construction at the time of writing.

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Atlas & Boots

Accommodation on the Danakil Depression tour itself is extremely basic. At Erta Ale (first night) we camped on thin mattresses in a stone hut. The second night we slept under the stars on makeshift wooden beds.

We recommend that you pack your own sleeping bag. While the area is known for rising temperatures, nights become windy. Note that there is no dresser, so you will have to walk a comfortable path to answer nature's call.

When: The best time to visit Dallol is between October and February, when the soaring temperatures are most bearable.

How: We visited Dallol with Smiling Ethiopia, recommended by Lonely Planet Ethiopia. The two of us were accompanied by an English-speaking guide, two drivers, two chefs and a two-man military escort, transported in two 4×4 vehicles.

The tour was well organized and as comfortable as possible given the lack of underlying infrastructure in the area. (We recommend packing a bright headlamp, sleeping bag, tissues/wet wipes, and antibacterial gel.) Our SUVs were sturdy and strong, and we ate very well thanks to our talented chef Yidnak and his assistant.

We paid $300 per person for a 3 day, 2 night tour of Erta Ale, Dallol and the Asale Lake salt flats. It's expensive but worth the money. A 3-night, 4-day extended tour costs $400 per person. Book via Mulugeta Gebrehiwot: smilingethiopiatravel.com, smilingethiopiatravel@yahoo.com, (251-1) 150694.

Skybus and Selam operate comfortable buses between Addis Ababa and Mekele, the starting point for Danakil tours. If you choose Wukro Lodge, you can take a local bus from Mekele bus station to Wukro (15 ETB / 0.5 USD per person; 48 km) and then take a tuk tuk to the base. The lodge is a five-minute plod uphill.

Domestic flights are the fastest way to travel in Ethiopia (check the latest routes here). It is much cheaper to book flights at an Ethiopian Airlines office in the country. Be sure to mention if you flew internationally with them as you will be eligible for a significant discount.

Addis Ababa is the country's main international airport. Book international flights via skyscanner.net.

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Lonely Planet Ethiopia is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled. If you prefer to travel in a tour, we recommend G Adventures and their small group Ethiopia tours.

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