Off the beaten canyon: Explore the hidden treasures of the Grand Canyon

Off the beaten canyon: Explore the hidden treasures of the Grand Canyon

Somehow the Grand Canyon looks familiar to me. Its dramatic landscape and red-gold hues have been depicted in films, posters, pencil cases and postcards. It's a recurring symbol of the road movie, a faithful piece of wholesome Americana - and yet, when you see it for the first time, it's still frightening, still overwhelming.

Stretching 277 miles (446 km) along the course of the Colorado River, its sheer size reminds you that America is not just a land of oversized McDonald's and greasy hot dogs; It is home to some of the most beautiful landscapes on the face of the earth.

The Grand Canyon alone attracts over five million visitors each year, most of whom explore the national park from the South Rim. Far fewer visitors (only 10% in fact) explore the canyon from the North Rim. This is just 10 miles (16 km) across the gorge from the South Rim Visitor Center (as the California condor flies), but it's a 220-mile (354 km) drive – all the way around the gorge. Additionally, it is closed to the public in winter as it averages 2,438 m (8,000 ft) above sea level and is 305 m (1,000 ft) higher than the South Rim.

We wanted to explore a different area of ​​Grand Canyon National Park, somewhere far away from the crowds. Unfortunately, since we were visiting at the end of February, the North Rim was closed. That didn't deter us and with a little research and a touch of luck we found an adventure north of the canyon that we enjoyed all on our own. We discovered many other things to do around Grand Canyon National Park.

Lee's Ferry

We stayed at the Cliff Dwellers Lodge near Lee’s Ferry, which proved to be a great base for exploring the area. Due to its unique geography, Lee's Ferry was once the only place for hundreds of miles where the Colorado River could be accessed from both sides. Historically, a boat service at Lee's Ferry served as an important river crossing from the mid-18th century to the early 20th century before being replaced by the first Navajo bridge, completed in 1929.

The Cliff Dwellers Lodge itself provides everything you need to explore the area. Accommodations are cozy and comfortable with a small grocery and fishing store, a gas station, and an excellent on-site restaurant that serves delicious, generously portioned meals throughout the day. There is lots of information at the lodge - just ask Kelly or Eran who will be happy to give you recommendations. We only had one full day, so we decided to do the following two trails.

Spencer Trail

We spent the morning climbing the Spencer Trail, a steep, winding climb from the Lee’s Ferry Historic Area. The trail switches back and forth as it slowly climbs 475 m (1,560 ft) to the rocky plateau at the summit. The views become more and more incredible the higher you climb. It took us just under an hour to reach the summit, which included many stops to catch our breath, take photos, and take in the intense panoramic views. Below, the meandering Colorado River shimmers emerald green as it winds its way through the limestone cliffs.

At the top, the rugged plateau stretches northeast, where you can enjoy magnificent views of the town of Page, the limestone landscape, and the meandering Colorado. Take time to rest, sign the visitor's notebook on the central cairn and enjoy the view before making your way back down. Hopefully you still have some energy left for the afternoon...

Wash Cathedral

Once Spencer Trail has toned up the legs, you'll find Cathedral Wash to be more challenging to the brain. The trail begins on the side of the road just a few miles from the historic Lee's Ferry area, and you're immediately faced with the first of many problem-solving exercises. The trail is less than two and a half miles along the wash to the Colorado and back, but it feels longer as you pick your way through the canyon and often have to turn back when you find the path down to the canyon floor is blocked or too steep to cross. Don't worry: it's almost impossible to get lost when walking forward or backward.

The hike is incredibly rewarding and inspires a real sense of adventure. We were there in January and had the whole gorge to ourselves. The rock formations and patterns are fascinating and offer the photographer many options. Once you reach the river, there's not much to do except enjoy the view before turning back. Take note of landmarks and cairns as you go, as you'll be grateful for them when you return. Make sure you give yourself plenty of time to get back – you don’t want to be hiking in the dark!

More to do at Lee’s Ferry

Lonely Dell Ranch and Lee's Ferry Historic DistrictParia CanyonNavajaro Bridge and Interpretive Center (California Condors)Upper South Fork of Soap CreekLower Soap CreekCondor Release siteThe WaveNorth Rim TrailsHorse Show BendThe Arizona TrailAntelope Canyon

Just ask Eran at Cliff Dwellers for her incredibly helpful guide!

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How to get there

From the visitor center on the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park, it's about a two and a half hour drive to Cliff Dwellers Lodge. Take Desert View Drive east, stopping frequently to enjoy the many overlooks. Turn left (north) onto US-89 and continue 134 miles. When the road splits, be sure to turn left onto 89A. Twenty-three miles later Cilff Dwellers is on the right side of the road.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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