Horseback riding in Monteverde, Costa Rica

Horseback riding in Monteverde, Costa Rica

Riding in Monteverde makes Kia rethink some things back home in the UK

I was skeptical about riding in Monteverde. I was told we wouldn't be given helmets and that the local guides couldn't speak English. I could deal with the latter, but the former was a problem.

I've done quite a bit of damage to myself in the past by not wearing a helmet. After falling off my horse in 2017, I resolved to never ride without it. Still, I really wanted to go horseback riding in Costa Rica, so I went to the stables to check it out for myself.

As it turned out, the local company was thoroughly equipped and our guide spoke excellent English. In fact, the service was so professional that when two members of our booking arrived late, we were asked to leave without them. They would be assigned to another leader.

old=““>Atlas & BootsHorse riding in Monteverde

Peter and I set off, accompanied by two other guests from our National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica and our local guide.

It was reassuring that all four drivers had roughly the same skills. I've been on excursions where I was by far the strongest rider and, conversely, the weakest. In Monteverde we had all ridden before and were comfortable with horses, but no one felt outclassed. It set a pleasant tone for our two hour drive.

The second thing that struck me was the sheer diversity of the landscape. After my last drive (through the moon-like landscape of Swakop, Namibia), it was refreshing to drive through so much greenery: velvety hills with sweeping vistas, dense forests bursting with life, and open, sun-dappled plains.

At times we were allowed to trot. My horse, Malibu, even broke into a gallop. It reminded me why I love driving – the scenery, the thrill and freedom of the open road – but also how much I still have to learn.

Confidence, technique and etiquette don't play much of a role on a two-hour ride, but are essential for multi-day trips like the one I want to try.

In the meantime I have sat down in my saddle. We meandered through forests, spotted birds and coatis, and emerged into a meadow. A rainbow rose almost as if it had been planted there. Of course we took a break for photos.

old=““>Atlas & BootsSomewhere under the rainbow

A lazy dusk drifted closer as we drove past fields of elegant trees, silhouetted against a blazing sky. We wound our way over postcard hills and then stopped to watch the sunset, our horses seeming as absorbed as we were.

As our afternoon of riding in Monteverde drew to a close, I knew a seed had been sown. I remembered how much I wanted to learn to ride: canter confidently, be more fluid and controlled, identify problems and fix them quickly, and eventually ride alone.

• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>
• alt=““>

Learning to ride properly has been a goal of mine for a long time, but I've been putting it off to wait for more time and money. These shelves have been somewhat obscured by our frequent travels. The sheer activity on the street masks the fact that I have few similar pursuits at home.

With this in mind, I booked a series of courses - my first since 2011, when I first learned to ride in London. As the saying goes, how we spend our days is how we spend our lives, of course, and I don't want to spend my life waiting.

That's not a bad lesson for two hours of riding.

Horse riding in Monteverde: the essentials

What: Horseback riding in Monteverde as part of a 9-day National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica.

Where: We stayed in a range of mid-range hotels, from the lavish grounds and comfortable rooms at Arenal Manoa in La Fortuna to simpler mountain lodge-style accommodations at Hotel Heliconia in Monteverde and even shipping containers repurposed as rooms at El Faro near Manuel Antonio.

When: The best time to travel to Costa Rica is the dry season from December to April. Plenty of sunshine makes it an ideal time to explore both the treetops and the coast. However, this is high season so expect more tourists and higher prices. The low season from May to July and November is also a good time to visit. It rains more, but it is quieter and the forests of Costa Rica are bursting with leaves.

How: Horse riding in Monteverde can be booked at Caballeriza El Rodeo: +506 2645 5764 / +506 2645 6306; $45 per person for a two hour ride.

We booked our trip on our 9-day National Geographic Expedition to Costa Rica through the Chief Experience Officer (CEO).

The tour costs from £1,199 and includes a CEO, all accommodation, transport between destinations, all breakfasts, some meals and numerous activities including a guided nature walk in the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, learning to make Doña Mara tortillas at her family home and a tour of the Mi Cafecito coffee cooperative.

The tour is classified as a National Geographic Journey, operated in partnership with G Adventures. More luxurious options are available under the Luxury Eco Lodges, Private Tours, Private Jet Expeditions, Expedition Cruises, River Cruises and Tours With An Expert banners.

For more information or bookings call 0800 440 2551 or book online.

We flew to Costa Rica with British Airways. Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

old=““>

Disclosure: We traveled to Costa Rica with support from National Geographic Expeditions. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice. .