Virgin Peaks: the world's unclimbed mountains

Virgin Peaks: the world's unclimbed mountains

The world's unclimbed mountains represent the last great mountaineering challenges. We look at the most desirable of these unconquered peaks

In January 2021, Nirmal Purja and his team of Nepalese mountaineers made the first winter ascent of K2, the second highest mountain in the world. K2 was the last 8,000-meter peak waiting for a winter climb, following the 2016 climb of Nanga Parbat, Pakistan's "Killer Mountain."

Some say this feat was the last great challenge in mountaineering, but this overlooks the world's unclimbed mountains: peaks that have yet to be climbed at all in any season. Below we look at the most desirable of these unconquered peaks.

alt=“Nirmal Purja has written one of the best mountaineering books”>Nimdai PurjaNirmal Purja climbed K2 for the first time in winter

Where are the unclimbed mountains?

Nobody knows how many unclimbed mountains there are in the world, but their number is at least in the hundreds, most likely in the thousands. In fact, there are probably more unclimbed peaks in the world than already conquered ones.

Countless mountains in the highest mountain range in the world, the Himalayas, are still unclimbed. Likewise, the Andes, the world's longest mountain range, stretching 7,000 km (4,300 miles) along the South American continent, are home to a host of unconquered peaks over 5,000 m (16,404 feet).

The remote peaks of Myanmar, Bhutan, Tibet, inner Russia and the former Soviet countries were cut off from the outside world for decades.

Then there is Antarctica. In the southern continent, hidden from humanity for thousands of years, there are still mountain ranges hidden under ice that are slowly emerging. When they finally appear, they will reveal to the world many more unclimbed mountains.

Why unclimbed?

Hundreds of mountains still need to be conquered. This could be due to sheer isolation, political obstacles or simple ignorance. After all, you can't climb something that you don't know exists.

It is sometimes difficult to determine whether mountains have already been climbed or not. There is no definitive database for the climbing history of every mountain in the world. Many records have never been digitized or translated into English and there are many first ascents that are unconfirmed or disputed.

John Biggar from Andes.org.uk says:

A real problem with the Andes is that without a central source of information, it can be very difficult to prove that a peak has not been climbed. I have to make the best guesses based on the information I have and the geography. Another problem is the Incas: I climbed Alto Toroni in Chile in 2013 thinking it was unclimbed, only to discover a 10m x 10m Inca platform on the 5,997m peak!

Whatever the reason, the world's unclimbed mountains remain a tempting challenge for mountaineers. We look at some of the most sought-after unclimbed mountains and ask why they have proven so difficult to climb.

1. Gangkhar Puensum

Altitude: 7,570 m (24,836 ft) Location: Bhutan/China

Gradythe badger; CC BY-SA 2.0Bhutan's highest mountain is probably the highest unclimbed mountain in the world

Bhutan's highest mountain, Gangkhar Puensum, may only be the 40th highest mountain in the world, but it is very likely the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.

Its name means “White Peak of the Three Spiritual Brothers” and it lies on the disputed border between Bhutan and China. In 1994, Bhutan banned climbing mountains above 6,000 m (19,685 ft) out of respect for local spiritual beliefs. Since 2003, mountaineering has been completely banned and as such Gangkhar Puensum remains unclimbed.

2. Muchu Chhish

Altitude: 7,452 m (24,591 ft) Location: Pakistan

RabMuchu Chhish is extremely remote and difficult to access

In the summer of 2014, there was hope that Muchu Chhish, the second highest unclimbed mountain in the world, would finally be conquered. Unfortunately, the British expedition was forced to retreat at 6,000 m (19,685 feet) and Muchu Chhish remains unclimbed.

Located in Pakistan's western Karakoram, Muchu Chhish is so difficult to access that there is only one other known attempt: a failed Spanish expedition in 1999.

3. Kabru

Altitude: 7,412 m (24,318 ft) Location: India/Nepal

Dyutiman.ratul; CC BY-SA 2.0The highest peak on Kabru is 7,412 m (24,318 ft) and remains officially unclimbed

The enigmatic Mount Kabru (sometimes referred to as Kabru IV) is a mountain ridge extending south from Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. It is also the world's southernmost mountain above 7,000 m (23,000 ft).

Kabru's topography is confusing to say the least. Because it is officially classified as a ridge, the mountain is home to numerous peaks, all of which have ambiguous names.

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The highest of them is 7,412 m (24,318 ft) high and is considered unclimbed. However, there is an argument that this peak is sufficiently prominent to be classified as the highest point on a separate mountain overall - causing even more confusion.

If you read the Wikipedia page, you would believe that an Indian expedition climbed the highest peak of the mountain in 1994. However, the Himalayan Journal's report on the expedition does not mention that the true summit was reached.

In the magazine's summary the following were all climbed, but the true peak of 7,412 m is not listed.

Regardless of its name or location on (or near) the Kabru ridge, there is no record of a 7,412 m (24,318 ft) peak being reached on Kabru.

4. Labuche Kang III

Altitude: 7,250 m (23,786 ft) Location: Tibet, China

Dirk Groeger; CC BY-SA 2.0An attempt on the summit of Labuche Kang III is planned for spring 2018

This Tibetan mountain, hailed as the "highest non-prohibited unclimbed peak on Earth," may not be unclimbed for much longer. American climber Luke Smithwick will lead a team of mountaineers in an attempt to summit Labuche Kang III in spring 2018. Until then, the eastern peak of Labuche Kang, known as Labuche Kang III, remains unclimbed.

The term “the highest non-prohibited unclimbed peak on earth” is also a little ambiguous. While Gangkhar Puensum is actually banned in Bhutan, Muchu Chhish and Kabru are still accessible. But that's the problem with mountaineering records in general: inaccuracies abound.

5. Karjiang I

Altitude: 7,221 m (23,691 ft) Location: Tibet, China

Bruno, summit postThe last serious attempt on Karjiang I was in 2001

The last serious attempt on Karjiang I, the highest peak in the Karjiang group, was made by a Dutch expedition in 2001. The group climbed nearby Karjiang III (6,820 m/22,375 ft) before bad weather forced the team to descend and ultimately leave the mountain altogether.

In 2010, American mountaineers Joe Puryear and David Gottlieb attempted to climb Karjiang I. However, they did not receive the necessary authorization and instead made an attempt on Labuche Kang III. Unfortunately, this failed and Puryear died on the mountain. Since then no further attempts have been made.

6. Mount Kailash

Altitude: 6,638 m (21,778 ft) Location: Tibet, China

DreamtimeClimbing Mount Kailash has been banned since 2001

The imposing Mount Kailash is considered sacred in four religions: Bön, Buddhism, Jainism and Hinduism. Chinese authorities gave permission for a Spanish trial in 2001, but it was met with local and international disapproval. Given this, the Chinese decided to ban all attempts to climb the mountain.

The great Reinhold Messner received permission to climb the mountain in the 1980s, but declined the invitation.

When asked about the planned Spanish expedition in 2001, he replied:

If we conquer this mountain, we conquer something in people's souls. I would suggest [the Spanish] go and climb a little harder. Kailas is not so high and not so hard.

7. Sauyr Zhotasy

Altitude: 3,840 m (12,600 feet) Location: China/Kazakhstan

Swiss Polar InstituteSauyr Zhotasy is considered the most prominent unclimbed mountain in the world

This may not be as exhilarating as above, but this mountain on the China-Kazakh border is considered the highest prominent unclimbed peak.

The elevation of a mountain represents the height of a mountain by the vertical distance between it and the lowest contour line that surrounds it but does not contain a higher peak. It can be a confusing method, but it essentially measures the height of an independent peak.

No recorded ascents have come to light, meaning Sauyr Zhotasy is considered the most prominent unclimbed mountain in the world. It is the 68th most topographically prominent peak on Earth.

8. Assemble Siple

Altitude: 3,110 m (10,200 feet) Location: Antarctica

Swiss Polar InstituteThere are so few photos of Mount Siple that only a sketch map has recorded its topography

Another unclimbed mountain with high topographical significance is the remote Mount Siple, located on Siple Island off the coast of Marie Byrd Land, Antarctica.

This part of the world is so remote that only a sketch map has recorded the topography of Mount Siple. Because the mountain is so little known, further research would need to be conducted before a serious summit attempt could be made.

Mount Siple is the 78th most topographically prominent peak and probably has the second highest elevation of the world's unclimbed mountains.

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