Elephant safari in Udawalawe National Park

Elephant safari in Udawalawe National Park

I wasn't exactly excited about the prospect of camping in Udawalawe National Park in Sri Lanka. I had a particularly challenging encounter with a cockroach (a flying cockroach) at a hotel down the street and wasn't ready for more.

As usual, Peter used all his rustic charm to convince me that “it’s safer in a tent” because “there’s an airlock so nothing gets in.” Even though I was done camping, I agreed to do it again in Udawalawe National Park.

My first pleasant surprise came when I realized that the “Private Safari Camp” was just that: an experience just for us. There would be no shared dresser, no muddy footprints in the shower, no revelers trudging past the tent. It was just me and Peter in our tent and a support team nearby consisting of a driver, a ranger, a personal chef, a waiter and a site manager. Apparently that's how the other half stores.

alt="How the other half stores">Atlas & BootsHow the other half is stored

The tent itself had beds instead of sleeping bags and was spacious enough to stand in - quite a change from Peter's three-man tent, which struggles to accommodate a man and a small woman (I'm a tall order at 5ft 2in).

The second pleasant surprise was that the camp was in the park itself. The Sri Lankan authorities allow camping within the boundaries of Udawalawe National Park, which meant we didn't have to wait long to start our first safari.

We set off and within minutes came across a family of elephants. After seeing leopards in Yala National Park with mixed luck, this was a huge relief.

alt="The best national parks in Sri Lanka for elephants">Atlas & BootsA mother elephant and a baby

We agreed that we would go home happy if we didn't see any more of these gentle giants. Fortunately, our pessimism was misplaced. Soon we spotted a mother and baby walking in the grounds of Udawalawe National Park. If you've seen a baby elephant, you know that there really are few things cuter.

alt="Baby elephant in Udawalawe National Park">Atlas & BootsA baby elephant in Udawalawe National Park

Half an hour later we saw something very special: an elephant felling a tree. We were told that the elephants in Udawalawe National Park are remarkably smart. An electric wire fence has been erected in some parts of the park to keep the animals in protected areas. Some mischievous elephants have been known to use tree branches to remove the fence posts, thereby avoiding the electric shock and gaining free rein.

We were lucky enough to see elephants snaking past the vehicle, almost within reach. (Touching is of course not allowed.)

In addition to elephants in Udawalawe National Park, we saw a variety of peacocks, buffaloes, crocodiles and tropical birds.

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After a tiring but exciting two hour drive, we returned to camp under the cover of darkness to find another surprise. Our slice of parkland had been transformed into a romantic setting for two, complete with lantern-lit paths and a table set for a three-course meal. Unfortunately, the rain forced us under the tents, so we ate our meal on our tent veranda instead.

alt=“Safari camp in Udawalawe National Park – 9″>Atlas & BootsLanterns light the way to our tent

We had a freshly prepared meal, magically whipped up in the mobile kitchen, and then retired for the night. The experience was quite a change from our first time camping together, resulting in what can only be described as a meltdown.

This time I slept in complete peace, except for a single jolt during the night when I heard a huge splash from the nearby river. Half asleep, I thought of Michael Crichton's Travels, in which he carves a dramatic tale of an elephant stomping through his camp at night. Hmm, I thought vaguely, wouldn't that be cool.

In the morning we woke up to find steps on the river leading to an almighty slide down the muddy bank to the water.

alt="Muddy footprints in Udawalawe National Park">Atlas & BootsElephant tracks on the river bank

Apparently an elephant had wandered nearby at night and decided to take a bath. When I first read Travels, I couldn't have imagined that one day I would be diving in exotic locations, crossing landslides, and letting elephants wander through my campsite. Then again, I never thought I would go camping.

That's the great thing about traveling with a country boy. You see all kinds of things that you wouldn't normally do. You just have to say yes – even to camping.

Udawalawe National Park: the essentials

What: Elephant safari in Udawalawe National Park in Sri Lanka.

Where: We stayed at a private campsite with Ruhunu Safari Camping deep in Udawalawe National Park. The riverside location offered a natural charm coupled with modern amenities such as a private shower and toilet, twin beds, intense tent lighting and traditional Sri Lankan cuisine using tasty locally sourced ingredients.

The grounds are surrounded by huge trees and a variety of wildlife, from birds and monkeys to elephants of course. Bookings are typically for one night and include two game drives, all meals and drinks, pickup and drop-off, park entry fees and a support team of five. Prices vary depending on the season. For latest prices, contact Ruhunu and specify Udawalawe National Park.

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When: The best time to visit Udawalawe National Park is from December to March, when rainfall is at its lowest, the grass is lower and elephants venture to their watering holes.

How: Entrance fees to Udawalawe National Park are $15 per person for a day visit and $30 for an overnight stay.

Depending on your starting point, different bus lines are available. It's worth noting that we found bus travel in Sri Lanka quite stressful, so you may want to take a transfer instead. Your hotel can arrange this, but it's always worth negotiating a discount as these are usually excessive (e.g. if it says LKR 15,000, ask for 11,000).

Many tourists choose to hire a driver for the entire trip. This costs approximately $45 per day (including days you don't use the driver). We used Ajaa (+94 777 284 178) and Sisi (+94 777 203 083) for shorter transfers and found them friendly and reliable.

Most international flights land at Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) in Colombo. Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

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