Cycling in Anuradhapura, the ancient capital of Sri Lanka

Cycling in Anuradhapura, the ancient capital of Sri Lanka

We almost didn’t make it to Anuradhapura. Our schedule in Sri Lanka was pretty busy and even though we spent a full month in the country, our itinerary of Colombo, Bentota, Galle, Yala, Udawalawe, Ella, Adam's Peak, Sigiriya, Kandy and Trincomalee meant we didn't have more than three days in each location.

It was by chance that I saw a tweet depicting Jetavanaramaya Dagoba in Anuradhapura, along with a caption explaining that it was once the tallest building in the world after the Egyptian pyramids. Given my part-time passion for architecture, there was no way I could visit Sri Lanka without seeing this historic structure in Anuradhapura.

The ancient city of Anuradhapura has a long and illustrious past. It was founded in the 4th century BC. Founded in 200 BC and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is one of Sri Lanka's ancient capitals and was the center of Theravada Buddhism for centuries.

Today, Anuradhapura is a UNESCO World Heritage Site covering an area of ​​40 km².

We had a day and a half in the city and since we could see some Dagobas from our hotel, we decided to walk over and spend our first afternoon exploring the city.

alt="Lake Tissa Weva lined with Dagobas">Atlas & BootsLake Tissa Weva, lined with Dagobas

Unfortunately, our laissez-faire attitude backfired when what seemed like a short walk under the scorching Sri Lankan sun turned into half an hour. We reached the boundary of the complex and spent a baffled 20 minutes trying to figure out how to get from one place to another. There were no obvious footpaths and as the ruins are scattered over a wide area it's not really practical to walk from one to the other.

After learning our lesson, we went back to our hotel and organized bikes for the next day (1500LKR/10USD, organized by reception). Anuradhapura can be seen by tuk tuk or private car, but cycling is a much more peaceful way to explore.

Cycling route through the best sights in Anuradhapura

Length: 8 km (excluding arrival and departure) Duration: 6 hours (approx. 1.5 hours cycling, 4 hours sightseeing) Purple pins: The sights we stopped at Blue pins: Additional sights you might want to see

When planning our cycling route through Anuradhapura, we decided to ride to the furthest point in the morning (while our energy levels are still high) and then cycle back at a leisurely pace, stopping at key landmarks along the way.

Abhayagiri Dagoba

Our first stop was Abhayagiri Dagoba. This monumental structure from the 1st century BC. It was once the heart of a monastery with 5,000 inhabitants. Like the nearby Jetavanaramaya, it was once among the largest structures in the world in terms of size. Today it rises almost 75 m above the forest floor and is one of the best places to visit in Anuradhapura.

alt=“We had Abhayagiri Dagoba all to ourselves”>Atlas & BootsWe had Abhayagiri Dagoba all to ourselves

We were impressed by the complete isolation of the place. When we arrived, we were the only two people walking through the hall, accompanied only by monkeys scurrying over stairwells and reliefs. Against a boundless blue sky and the creeping branches of saplings and trees, it felt like a scene straight out of Indiana Jones.

We stopped at the Abhayagiri Museum, which was interesting (and a good place for a bathroom break) but largely overlooked on a tight schedule. Then we cycled on to the next major attraction: Jetavanaramaya Dagoba.

Jetavanaramaya Dagoba

Jetavanaramaya is the real heart of Anuradhapura. While it is similar in style to Abhayagiri, its size is more imposing. The massive dome rises above the horizon and can be seen for miles. Jetavanarama was built in the 3rd century by King Mahasena and is said to contain an incredible 90 million stones.

alt="Jetavanaramaya in Anuradhapura is said to contain over 90 million bricks">Atlas & BootsJetavanaramaya in Anuradhapura is said to contain over 90 million bricks

We made a quick stop for lunch (which we had brought with us) and continued cycling to Ruwanweliseya.

Ruwanwelisaya Dagoba

Ruwanweliseya is one of the oldest structures in Anuradhapura (although it has undergone rigorous restoration in recent years). It's certainly impressive, but I felt its pristine white facade detracted from the wonder rather than enhancing it. Like the gold-leaf stupas of Burma, the bright and shiny exterior appeared more sterile than brick.

alt="Ruwanweliseya is one of the oldest structures in Anuradhapura">Atlas & BootsRuwanweliseya is one of the oldest structures in Anuradhapura

Similar in style are Mirisavatiya and nearby Thuparama, the oldest dagoba in Sri Lanka.

Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi

Our next stop was Sri Maha Bodhi, a sacred fig tree that is significant for several reasons. It is the oldest living tree known to have been planted by humans and has been continuously cared for for over 2,000 years. More importantly, it was grown from a cutting brought from Bodh Gaya in India, the tree under which Buddha is said to have found enlightenment.

alt="Sri Maha Bodhi is the oldest living tree known to have been planted by humans">Atlas & BootsSri Maha Bodhi is the oldest living tree known to have been planted by humans

Housed in a temple complex, Sri Maha Bodhi charges an additional fee of LKR 200 per person ($1.30). Visitors are asked to remove their shoes, cover their arms and legs and wear primarily white as a sign of respect. (Note that this applies to attractions throughout the complex, not just Sri Maha Bodhi.)

Sri Maha Bodhi stands on the highest platform surrounded by railings decorated with flags. Sri Lankan Buddhists visit the site and can be seen scattered around the tree, heads bowed in prayer and respect. We circled the site and then headed to our final stop in Isurumuniya.

Isurumuniya Temple

The Isurumuniya rock temple is worth a stop. Located next to a picturesque lotus pond, it is home to a number of famous carvings including The Lovers and The Royal Family. Some carvings, including one of elephants splashing in the water, still remain on the rock face, but most have been moved to a small museum within the temple.

alt="Isurumuniya Temple">Atlas & BootsIsurumuniya Temple

We finished our day in Isurumuniya and went back to the hotel. As we got on our bikes, we agreed that Anuradhapura was one of our favorite things to do in Sri Lanka. In hindsight, it took us one day and not two, but we were so glad we did it.

In many ways, Anuradhapura embodies the best aspects of travel. It is magnificent and impressive, but still largely undiscovered. Its history spans thousands of years, but its ruins are well preserved. It is relatively remote but perfectly accessible.

Anuradhapura reminded us of the joy of stumbling upon something amazing and having it all to ourselves – which, in many ways, is the joy of travel itself.

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Cycling Anuradhapura: the essentials

What: Cycling route through the best places in Anuradhapura, the ancient capital of Sri Lanka.

Where: We stayed at Heritage Hotel, 3 km from Anuradhapura's main attractions. Tucked away on Lake Tissa Weva, the hotel offers a secluded base from which to explore the ruins.

The hotel, with its large lobby and high ceilings, has the hushed feel of a charming old library, but that only adds to the relaxation. Our garden-facing room was suitably quiet and comfortable – think velvet chairs, overstuffed cushions and crisp white sheets.

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The buffet is on the expensive side, so you may prefer to dine at a local restaurant. Either way, be sure to venture out to the lake to see the Dagobas lit up at night. The view is really impressive.

When: The best time to visit Anuradhapura is April and September, when the weather is dry and sunny and moderate temperatures make cycling a pleasure.

October to early January brings the Maha Monsoon to Anuradhapura, so expect to get wet. All other months are good travel times. January to April and mid-July to September offer the best odds for good weather nationwide.

How: The entrance fee to Anuradhapura is $25 for one day and can be purchased at the Archaeological Museum and kiosks along the way. Note that some attractions charge a small entrance fee in addition to the main ticket, so bring some cash with you. Bike rentals can be arranged by your hotel and should cost $10 per day.

You may come across an “insider tip” that says you can see Anuradhapura for free if you avoid the guards, but this is not a responsible way to travel so please don’t do this.

You can get from Colombo to Anuradhapura by train (check train schedule here). Depending on your starting point, bus routes are available. It's worth noting that we found bus travel in Sri Lanka quite stressful, so you may want to take a transfer instead. Your hotel can arrange this, but it's always worth negotiating a discount as these are usually excessive (e.g. if it says LKR 15,000, ask for 11,000).

Many tourists choose to hire a driver for the entire trip. This costs approximately $45 per day (including days you don't use the driver). We used Ajaa (+94 777 284 178) and Sisi (+94 777 203 083) for shorter transfers and found them friendly and reliable.

Most international flights land at Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB). Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

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