Mountain etiquette: How to treat your mountain guide

Mountain etiquette: How to treat your mountain guide

If you're an adventurer who dreams of great mountains, familiarize yourself with proper mountain etiquette to ensure an enjoyable experience for everyone

There's a moment in Sherpa, the BAFTA-nominated documentary about Everest's famous guides, when a Western tourist asks, "Can't you talk to their owners?" in reference to the striking Sherpas.

It may have been an innocuous request made in a moment of frustration, but in the film's harsh truth, the question reveals a troubling attitude toward the mountain guides who risk their lives to lead others to the summit.

The question frames the relationship between owner and possession. It reduces the leader to a position of servitude when in reality he is in a position of leadership. On the mountain, it is a guide's responsibility to constantly weigh risk and reward and push as hard as possible without going over the edge. Your job is probably the most important in mountaineering and deserves the respect it deserves.

Below we explore proper mountain etiquette with the help of Guy Cotter, CEO of Adventure Consultants, the pioneers of guiding on Everest and administrators of the Sherpa Future Fund.

Trust your guide

In 2008, climbers Jimmy Chin, Conrad Anker and Renan Ozturk attempted a first ascent of Meru Peak's Shark Fin. After 20 days in extreme conditions, they gave up just 100 meters from the summit.

This moment of surrender - this heartbreaking moment of surrender - came about because these world-class climbers were able to recognize the point of no return and make the right decision. Most people don't have the experience to make such a judgment, which is why it's so important to trust your guide.

Guy tells us: "A professionally trained and qualified mountain guide has been exposed to many different situations in their personal and professional career, but because the mountain environment is so dynamic, there are regular times when the plan needs to change due to one of several factors: weather, conditions, time of day, clients' fitness or ability, and so on. Trust that your guide wants the best outcome for you, even if it may not be what you are looking for originally registered.”

Don't sweat the little things

On our Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu, we learned of a customer who insisted that a guide and his horse ride from the Peruvian mountains to the nearest village to get more coffee.

Such requirements cannot exist at high altitude. You will be without your comforts and you may lose some of the ones you have along the way. Don't sweat the little things. It's just not worth it.

alt=”Mountain Etiquette – 3″>Don’t sweat the small stuff – it’s just not worth it

This is of course a good philosophy not only for mountaineering, but for everything that goes beyond it. Guy says: "The mountains teach us what the real priorities in life are, and that's helpful when we reintegrate into our normal world, where we can lose sight of what's really important."

Take responsibility for your own equipment

Take responsibility for organizing your equipment and therefore keeping yourself and others safe. A guide can only do so much and it helps when group members are actively involved.

“You don’t have to be exceptional at anything to be a successful high-altitude climber, but you also can’t afford to be useless at anything.”

“We are all challenged by different things in the mountains depending on our personality type,” says Guy. "Some people find that it can be difficult to keep their gear together and well organized, but they may find that they are really good at general mountain movement. For others, it's the other way around.

"I have found that climbing very large mountains is like holding up a large mirror to yourself in which you can see your weaknesses and your strengths down to the smallest detail. By accepting our strengths and working on our weaknesses, we can become well-rounded mountaineers and achieve great things. I don't think you have to be exceptional at anything to be a successful high-altitude mountaineer, but you also can't afford to be useless at anything to be."

Remember that no one can control nature

Capricious weather ruins even the best-laid plans, be it a picnic in a London park or a summit climb on Lhotse.

“Guides want good weather and conditions in the mountains just as much as you do, and an experienced guide knows when the stars don’t align,” says Guy. "We all expect and want things to go according to plan, but the reality is that nature comes first; it doesn't matter how many people follow your journey and expect you to succeed."

alt="interesting facts about Aconcagua">Atlas & BootsPeter on the summit of Aconcagua

Facing difficult decisions makes you a better mountaineer, says Guy: "Failure based on correct decisions about weather and conditions isn't actually failure; it's just part of being in the mountains. To be successful in the mountains you have to be very conservative and very pushy at the same time. By that I mean you have to really want it, but you have to be extremely realistic and if all the factors aren't right, you should wait until they are. To cliché To use it, you should only strike when the iron is hot.”

Tip well – even if YOU paid a premium price

We've already talked about how awkward tipping is and how difficult it is not knowing what is "appropriate." Interestingly, adventure consultants have seen everything from $20 to $15,000 tips on an Everest climb.

Everest veteran Alan Arnette advises, "Five percent of what you paid the company is a fair tip. It works best if each team member contributes equally. Of course, if you had an exceptional experience, more may be warranted. Five percent for a Rainier trip might be between $50 and $100, while a $50,000 Everest climb could be $2,500 would cost; any reasonable amounts depending on your climbing experience.”

alt=““>(Image: Adventure Consultants)

Some customers may balk at the prospect of tipping after paying for a premium expedition, but it's important to remember that it's a premium expedition for a reason.

Guy explains: "The usual business approach of minimizing expenses to maximize profits is simply not sustainable in mountaineering and certainly not safe for customers or employees. I see a lot of tour operators in places like Nepal fighting for the bottom of the market and they get a lot of customers who are initially overjoyed that they got a trip at half the price, but the reality is that you get what you pay for and many of these people leave disappointed or unsuccessful and disillusioned.”

He adds: "I cannot work like this and maintain a sense of professional integrity. There are lives at stake and it is already a dangerous enough environment and I cannot understand why people would take on significant additional risk by choosing an unreliable operator because they are cheap. It would be like paying for a major life-threatening surgical procedure in a Nepalese back alley because it is a lot cheaper than having it done at home by trained surgeons in a real hospital.”

Keep the greater good in mind

The guides clearly care about your well-being, but have a professional obligation to do what is best for the group. If you want to go back 30 minutes because you lost something, this will rarely be possible.

Guy advises: "If you want to take a trip that focuses on your goals and time frame, you can pay the extra for a private trip alone or with a few close friends. If you're in a group, you'll need to pitch in both physically and emotionally to support the team."

Learn some of the local language

There is very little that pleases a local as much as hearing their language on a tourist's tongue. It shows that you are interested in their culture and not just ticking a box on your mountaineering calendar.

“At least find out the names of those who will help you on your journey,” says Guy. “It’s disappointing to see people pointing at a member of staff they’ve been traveling with for a week and saying ‘that one’ instead of their name.”

Leave no trace

Guides and porters will do as much as possible to minimize the group's footprint, but their time and resources are limited, especially at altitude. Therefore, please take an active role in ensuring that the environment is left as clean and undisturbed as possible.

alt=“Mountain Etiquette – 5″>A Nepalese Sherpa collects trash on Everest

“We need to recognize that no matter how diligent we are, we always leave a mark, so we need to be extra vigilant to ensure we minimize our footprint,” says Guy.

Nature is at its most beautiful in the mountains. With consideration and commitment from all of us, we can help ensure that it stays that way.

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Adventure Consultants offers 72 expeditions, hikes, backcountry ski adventures and wilderness trips to the Himalayas, Antarctica, South America, Greenland, Alaska and the Seven Summits, in addition to world-class guiding services and climbing schools in New Zealand and Europe.

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