Visiting Pamukkale: Tips you should know before your trip

Visiting Pamukkale: Tips you should know before your trip

But Pamukkale Turkey's most popular attraction in terms of numbers is little known outside the country's borders. It's the iconic architecture of Istanbul and the cave dwellings of Cappadocia that steal the spotlight, but Pamukkale, with its cascading travertine terraces, also deserves attention.

Vast limestone cliffs in a dazzling white hue rise above powder blue ponds. Fossilized limestone posts hang from calcareous roots - like in Superman's Fortress of Solitude or a Tim Burton nightmare, if his nightmares were good.

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The surreal landscape of Pamukkale was formed over thousands of years by limestone deposited by 17 hot springs in the area. Unfortunately, its natural beauty was almost lost when hotels sprung up in the area in the 1960s and a road was built to allow motorcycles direct access via the slopes. Hotels drained the thermal water to fill their swimming pools and the terraces turned gray-brown.

Luckily, UNESCO stepped in in 1988 and declared Pamukkale a World Heritage Site. The hotels were demolished and a series of artificial pools were built on the street to hide the damage caused. Today there are strict controls on development and tourism in the area, so you can visit the region with a clear conscience. Here's what you should know before you go.

It doesn't look anything like the pictures (but it's still stunning)

The shiny terraces depicted in travel guides and tourist association posters don't exist - at least not now.

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dreamtime; Atlas & Boots

We were told that spring water was diverted to give the terraces time to recover from past abuse. When and how (or if!) the terraces will return to their former glory is currently unconfirmed.

However, don't let the difference stop you from visiting Pamukkale. It's still stunning and definitely worth a stop.

Expect crowds

Most foreign tourists visit Pamukkale on a day trip from the coast, meaning they arrive in the late morning or early afternoon. Therefore, opt to stay in Denizli and take a public minibus first thing in the morning to minimize crowds (see “How” below).

Some tourists stay in Pamukkale itself, but it is quite a charming town and given the problems with tourists in the past, we think it is better to book accommodation outside of the town itself.

Expect crowds throughout the day, from Speedo-sporting Europeans to overzealous local kids. It is worth noting that Pamukkale is visited by two million people annually, which is 5,500 people per day!

Start at the bottom gate

The public minibus will take you to the lower gate (on the ground floor of the city) as standard, which is the better option for visiting Pamukkale. It is less crowded as tours drop off passengers at the upper gate. It also includes a clifftop walk with breathtaking views.

At the end of our visit we returned to the lower gate to catch a bus back to Denizli but also to see the scenery again.

Be careful

To avoid damage to the site, visitors must walk barefoot. You are expected to put your shoes in a plastic bag and carry them (from the lower gate) or leave them on the wooden deck (upper gate). Therefore, take light shoes that are easy to remove.

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The travertine floor can be slippery in places with running water underfoot as well as sharp pieces of limestone. Therefore, take your time walking up the cliff and tread carefully!

Pack light

There are no lockers at the lower gate, so pack light as you will be carrying your bag for the duration of your visit.

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If possible, leave your valuables at your hotel. Most visitors leave their bags by the pool when they take a swim, so there's a chance your belongings might wander around. If you must bring valuables with you, you should store them in dry bags to avoid water damage.

Wear swimwear under your clothes

There are toilets on site, but it is easier to wear your swimsuit under your clothes so you can simply take it off and take a bath.

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Turkey is liberal compared to other countries in the region, so bikinis are okay. You'll probably dry off fairly easily in the sun, but you may want to bring a wrap to cover your swimwear while it dries.

It is worth noting that most tourists stay in the pool area. We walked half a kilometer beyond and found peaceful vistas completely free of visitors. The extra effort is worth it.

Take sunglasses with you

If you don't have sunglasses, buy a cheap one before visiting Pamukkale. The limestone is so bright, so white, that it hurts your eyes if you don't protect them.

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Similarly, apply sunscreen and drink plenty of water. Temperatures rise, especially in summer, and can dehydrate you if you're not careful.

Skip the ancient pool

According to legend, the artificially formed ancient pool was a gift from Marc Anthony to Cleopatra. In the 7th century, an earthquake collapsed the surrounding building and the massive marble columns collapsed into the pool, where they still rest today.

We thought about a dip, but the atmosphere was similar to that of a British Butlins (hamburger joints, sunburned tourists, Macarena playing over the speakers). For an additional $10 on top of the entrance fee, we decided to forego the fun. Maybe you want to do the same.

Visit Hierapolis

In contrast to the ancient pool, the adjacent site of Hierapolis is worth visiting. Don't miss the theater, said to have been built during the reign of Hadrian after the earthquake of 60 AD.

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The facade is 300 feet long and there are 50 rows of seats divided into seven parts. We've seen our fair share of Roman theaters (in Amman, Jerash, Petra, Ephesus and Rome) and this is as impressive as any, with the exception of the Colosseum.

Don't ignore Denizli

Most visitors only use Denizli as a passageway to visit Pamukkale. If you have time, visit the sights in Denizli and the surrounding area. Try Denizli Old Town, Kaklik Cave, Tripoli and Aphrodisias.

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We visited the Old Town market, which was far less touristy than its Grand Bazaar equivalent in Istanbul and therefore offered a more intimate glimpse into local life. We spent some time wandering the alleyways before having Turkish tea at a small courtyard cafe tucked away on the edge. Spend some time there and you'll definitely find what you're looking for.

Visiting Pamukkale: The Essentials

What: Visit to Pamukkale, Turkey.

• Gemeinsamer Eintritt in Pamukkale und Hierapolis: 25 TL (8 USD). Geöffnet Nov.-März, 6.00-18.30 Uhr; April-Oktober, 6-24 Uhr.
• Eintritt in den antiken Pool: 32 TL (10 USD). Geöffnet Nov.-März, 8.00-17.30 Uhr; April-Oktober, 8.00-19.30 Uhr.

Where: We stayed at Yildirim Hotel, a clean and airy hotel with easy access to Denizli bus station. The hotel is well located not only for visiting Pamukkale, but also for the various attractions in and around Denizli.

A rooftop bar offers refreshing drinks and snacks, as well as expansive views of Denizli city. An on-site restaurant offers a range of tasty options including Turkish staple, pide (wood-fired bread with your choice of toppings).

The hotel is a family business. If you're lucky, Namek, the family's Turkish-German patriarch, will be in town to regale you with tales of his youth, his travels, and the stark differences between the gregarious Turkish psyche and the buttoned-up German equivalent!

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When: The best time to visit Pamukkale is spring (April to mid-June). Summer can be unbearably hot, while winter can cause snow! Autumn (mid-September to October) is also a good option, but the days are shorter and the chance of rain is higher. How: In Denizli, you can take a public minibus from bus station number 76, which is just a minute's walk from Yildirim Hotel. The journey takes approximately 30 minutes and costs 3.50 TL (1.20 USD) per person. The minibus stops a few minutes from Pamukkale; Ask the bus driver to point you in the right direction. Note the location as you will need to take the bus back from the spot across the street.

You can take a train to Denizli from Istanbul, Izmir or Selçuk (check TCDD for the latest schedule). There is no train to or from Cappadocia, but there are reliable bus services. We took a Metro Turizm overnight bus from Denizli to Cappadocia (9:00 p.m. – 7:00 a.m.; $17 USD).

We arrived Turkey at Ataturk International Airport in Istanbul and spent a few days in Istanbul before flying to Izmir (1 hr) and taking a train to Selçuk (1 hr 20 min) the same day. After a few days from Selçuk to Ephesus we took the train to Denizli (3 hours).

Ataturk Airport is international and has connections to a number of domestic destinations throughout Turkey. Book via Skyscanner for the best prices.

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Lonely Planet Turkey is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

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