Boat tour on the Eqi Glacier: a journey to the end of the world

Boat tour on the Eqi Glacier: a journey to the end of the world

The Eqi Glacier boat tour takes travelers to the abyss of the planet. There you will find an almost supernatural experience

The gigantic Eqi Glacier in Greenland is located about 430 km north of the Arctic Circle and about 1,600 km south of the North Pole. On a planet with almost eight billion people, very few live at these latitudes.

Eqi, which means “edge” in Greenlandic, is a fitting name for a glacier that lies at humanity’s final frontier. If the Earth were actually flat, Eqi Glacier could be the location marked on maps where ships disappear.

I visited Ilulissat after my adventures on the Arctic Circle Trail. After the disappointment of not completing the trail, I was keen to make the most of my remaining time in Greenland. When I arrived in Ilulissat, I hastily booked an Eqi Glacier boat tour with World of Greenland.

Located about 80km north of Ilulissat – a Greenlandic word meaning “icebergs” – it takes at least three hours to reach Eqi by boat. Our ship left the port of Ilulissat and headed up the scenic Ataa Strait, the long stretch of water in the Disko Bay region of western Greenland. Travel times may be longer depending on weather and sea conditions. I was lucky: the day was beautiful and the water was calm.

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The drive along the Ataa Road to the Eqi Glacier

The trip there alone was worth the money. As they cut through the calm waters outside Ilulissat, signs of civilization quickly disappeared. The boat maneuvered slowly and carefully through the crowd of gently swaying icebergs before gradually picking up speed as it left the colorful city behind.

We continued driving and stopped briefly at a small glacier-fed waterfall that cascaded over the cliffs. The Eqi Glacier finally appeared between black cliffs on the horizon; a brilliant white arch over the water. At first glance it didn't seem as big as I had been led to believe. Had I been fooled by marketing hyperbole?

alt="The Eqi Glacier first appears on the horizon">Atlas & BootsThe Eqi Glacier first appears on the horizon

As we approached, a smaller ship cut across the face of the glacier. Only now, with a tiny artificial device in front of it, did the true extent of the glacier become apparent.

After another hour of driving straight into its ever-expanding expanses, I was heartened to see the sheer scale of this natural wonder revealed.

It was colossal. Behind the relatively insignificant ice wall where our boat was positioned was the vast Greenland ice sheet (or ice cap). This huge body of ice covers 1,710,000 km2 of Greenland - approximately 80% of its land surface.

old=““>Atlas & BootsA boat cuts across the face of the Eqi Glacier

The Greenland ice sheet is generally thicker than 2 km (and 3 km at its thickest) and is the second largest ice mass in the world. Only the Antarctic ice sheet at the planet's antipode is larger. Despite its enormous size, Eqi - along with most of Greenland's glaciers - is retreating.

The melting of Greenland's glaciers and ice sheets has been widely reported, particularly after an unprecedented summer in the Arctic in which heatwaves accelerated ice melt in the Northern Hemisphere. This year, a team of scientists revealed that Greenland's ice sheet has begun to melt even in winter.

The calving glacier

Known as the calving glacier, Eqi is five kilometers wide where it meets the sea and can be up to 250 m high at its highest point. It may not be the largest in the area, but the glacier is one of the most active in Greenland. Not long after our arrival, it promptly adjusted to the first of several disruptions.

alt=“A chunk of ice breaks off from the Eqi Glacier”>Atlas & BootsA chunk of ice breaks off from the Eqi Glacier

An ice shaft broke away from its walls and thundered into the sea, sending seagulls racing into the sky. Immediately the water began to pound around us. This is exactly why our boat had to stay a safe distance from the glacier wall. When exceptionally large chunks of ice break from the glacier, they can create huge waves - even small tsunamis.

More calvings followed and the water around our boat changed in appearance and texture. When we arrived the water was smooth and clear. Now it thickened with small icebergs and slush as debris from the glacier surrounded our boat.

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The surface took on an eerie, almost hypnotic tone as the white carpet beneath the hull pulsed. Standing there, swaying on the boat as it rocked gently in the swell of the water, felt like floating on the edge of the world.

My cheeks turned scarlet from the wind and my fingers stiff from the cold, but like everyone else on board, I couldn't tear myself away from the ethereal beauty of the glacier. It was absolutely captivating.

The Eqi Glacier boat tour truly feels like a journey to the edge of the earth. Here, at the abyss of the planet, it becomes clear that we humans are entering the terrain of nature. She's in charge here. I was allowed to stay for a while, but only on her terms.

Eqi Glacier Boat Tour: The Most Important Things

What: Eqi Glacier boat tour from Ilulissat, Greenland.

Where: Ilulissat is slowly starting to meet the demand for accommodation with a growing range of options. My visit in the peak month of July was a last minute decision, so most hotels were fully booked. With few options left, I stayed at Ilulissat Apartment, a basic self-catering apartment 10 minutes' walk from the city center.

Other popular but more expensive hotels include Hotel Hvide Falk, Hotel Arctic and Hotel Icefiord. There are also a growing number of Airbnb options throughout the city. Click here to receive a discount on your first stay.

    Booking.com

When: The best time for a boat tour on the Eqi Glacier is from mid-June to mid-September, when the glacier can be safely reached. This is also the best time to visit Ilulissat as the weather is best for whale watching, hiking, kayaking and watching the famous midnight sun. This is also the busiest time of the season with hotels and lodges selling out quickly, so it's best to book in advance.

How: I booked my Eqi Glacier boat tour with World of Greenland at their main offices in central Ilulissat. Trips run daily from June to September and meet at 9:45 a.m. The journey to the glacier typically takes between three and four hours, but may take longer depending on conditions. The boat stays on the glacier for about two hours.

The price per adult is 2,295 DKK (140 USD) and includes a light breakfast served shortly after departure, followed by a substantial cold lunch just before arrival at Eqi Glacier. Free tea and coffee are available all day.

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Tours begin in front of the main office, where minibuses meet customers and take them to the dock where the boat departs. After the tour, minibuses take customers to the offices or the main hotels in the city.

For more information and bookings, visit the World of Greenland website, email info@wog.gl, call +299 94 43 00 or drop by the office in town between 8:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m.

I flew from London to Kangerlussuaq via Copenhagen, Denmark. From there I booked a domestic flight to Ilulissat with Air Greenland, who essentially have a monopoly on domestic flights in Greenland. Book via Skyscanner.

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Guides for Greenland are hard to come by, but if you're planning on trekking, we recommend the Cicerone Guide to Trekking in Greenland.

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