Exploring the Rotorua Geysers in New Zealand

Exploring the Rotorua Geysers in New Zealand

We visit the Rotorua Geysers on New Zealand's North Island in search of Pohutu, the largest active geyser in the Southern Hemisphere

We smelled Rotorua before we even set foot in the city: an unholy trifecta of pungent sulfur, clogged drains and rotten eggs. Built on a geothermal hotspot, Rotorua is a place of vibrant primordial life: boiling mud pools, hot springs, spewing vents and erupting geysers.

Chief among the Rotorua geysers is Pohutu, the largest active geyser in the Southern Hemisphere. Pohutu, which means 'constant splashing' in Maori, is located within Te Puia Thermal Park, which covers 70 hectares of the historic Te Whakarewarewa geothermal valley.

Pohutu is considered the most reliable geyser on earth. It erupts once or twice an hour and sometimes reaches a height of 30 meters. Eruptions last a few minutes and can last much longer. From 2000 to 2001, Pohutu erupted for an incredible 250 days.

We spent a day in Rotorua, starting with the Te Ra + Haka experience in Te Puia, followed by the Redwoods Treewalk nearby - a perfect example of this famous North Island city.

Haka at Te Puia

As we drove into Rotorua we noticed that the road signs were in two languages: English and Maori. In stark contrast to neighboring Australia, New Zealand has three official languages: English, Maori and New Zealand Sign Language compared to Australia's English.

We witnessed a deep pride in New Zealand's Maori heritage and an encouraging level of integration. Rotorua is a particularly good place to learn about Maori culture, as 34% of the population is Maori, compared to 15% of the general population. Rotorua is also a good place to witness the Haka, the intimidating war dance made famous by New Zealand's All Blacks rugby team.

alt=“Maori cultural performance in Te Puia”>Maori cultural performance in Te Puia

We were worried that seeing the Haka in a touristy setting would feel a bit substitutable, but we booked one anyway. I can't say it felt entirely authentic with the shiny exit sign above the stage, but it was certainly entertaining - not least because Peter was elected chief of the tourist tribe.

We spent a fun hour watching the haka and traditional poi dance before reluctantly agreeing to some audience participation. Of course we destroyed all evidence that we attempted the dances...

Rotorua geysers at Te Puia

After the haka we headed off to explore the Rotorua Geysers. Near the famous Pohutu is the Te Tohu geyser, also known as the "Feathers" geyser in honor of a visit by the British royal family in 1901, where guests noticed a similarity between the Te Tohu feather and the feathers on the Prince of Wales's coat of arms. Te Tohu is also known as an “indicator” because it usually breaks out just before Pohutu.

Guided tours are included in the ticket price, but we preferred to explore the Rotorua Geysers on our own. That's not to say we didn't need professional help; We set off for Pohutu after seeing a group of tourists gathered around a guide and wondering if it was about to explode. Unfortunately it wasn't so we settled down to wait.

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Pohutu kept teasing us, spitting and gurgling, but never quite breaking through. After exactly an hour we were rewarded with huge bursts of steam and sudden gushes of scorching water until Pohutu finally burst open.

The most reliable geyser on earth did not disappoint. Huge jets of water shot tens of meters into the sky in a massive eruption that lasted several minutes. It was encouraging to see that it still had so much power. Pohutu was once at high risk of disappearing as residents of the area used drilling to tap the valley's geothermal resources. Fortunately, a drilling closure program has preserved Pohutu's natural majesty.

We spent the rest of the morning exploring the natural mud pools and hot springs before continuing on to the nearby Redwoods Treewalk.

Redwoods Treewalk near Rotorua

If Te Puia is a place of mud puddles and goblins, then the Redwoods Treewalk is the opposite: a fairytale forest fit for Disney.

In some ways, the forest is a microcosm of New Zealand itself. Its towering trees may be famous for their Californian roots, but the Treewalk is distinctly Kiwi: beautiful, exciting and yet strangely uncrowded.

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Using environmentally friendly engineering, the 1,800-foot-long Redwoods Treewalk traverses 22 majestic 116-year-old redwood trees via 23 suspension bridges 20 to 40 feet above the ground.

We spent 45 minutes meandering along the trail, learning about the history of the forest as well as the local people and the land.

Overall, it wasn't the most dizzying thing we've done in New Zealand (more on that in the coming weeks), but it was a peaceful, invigorating way to spend an afternoon - a must on your Rotorua itinerary.

Rotorua Geysers: The Essentials

What: Exploring the Rotoroua Geysers and the Redwoods Treewalk.

Where: We roamed New Zealand's North Island in an Apollo campervan. We loved the flexibility and spontaneity of #vanlife as we didn't have to plan or book transportation or accommodation in advance. We simply chose at the beginning of each day where we wanted to go and what we wanted to see.

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Our Euro Tourer Campervan was cleverly designed and included heating and air conditioning, shower and toilet, a fully equipped kitchen with microwave, gas stove and fridge and a double bed that could be converted into a seating area and a desk or dining table during the day. For additional amenities, book a spot at a top 10 campsite.

When: The best time to travel to New Zealand is Sep-Apr. Summer (December to February) offers excellent hiking weather and a variety of festivals and events. The fall (Mar-Apr) and spring (Sep-Nov) shoulder seasons have nice weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices.

How: Explore the Rotorua Geysers with the Te Ra + Haka experience in Te Puia and book the Redwoods Treewalk nearby. Book a motorhome with Apollo Motorhome Holidays. Driving in New Zealand is exceptionally easy, with wide roads, excellent infrastructure and relatively few cars - perfect for exploring by motorhome.

We flew from the UK to New Zealand via Singapore and Australia. For longer stays at Changi Airport in Singapore, we recommend the Plaza Premium Aerotel Transit Hotel for those needing sleep and the Plaza Premium Lounge for relaxing away from the crowds. We took advantage of both during our 19-hour stay, as well as the free city tour!

Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

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Lonely Planet New Zealand is a comprehensive travel guide to New Zealand, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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