Climbing Carrauntoohil: Ireland's highest mountain

Climbing Carrauntoohil: Ireland's highest mountain

Climbing Carrauntoohil is an excellent introduction to the Reeks District, Ireland's adventure playground

The MacGillycuddy's Reeks in Kerry are Ireland's highest mountain range and the inspiration behind the region's newly renamed Reeks District, home to Carrauntoohil, which at 1,038 m (3,406 feet) is Ireland's highest mountain.

Towering cliffs, mountain lakes and fast-flowing rivers define the 12-mile-long mountain range along the eastern border of the Iveragh Peninsula. Known as the backbone of the Kingdom of Kerry, the sandstone mountains were carved over hundreds of thousands of years by glacial erosion and extreme weather.

Kerry is steeped in myth and history and offers some of the most beautiful views in Ireland. Naturally, I was all too keen to explore the countryside while climbing Carrauntoohil.

Ireland Three Peaks Bag

The MacGillycuddy's Reeks are home to Ireland's three highest mountains: Carrauntoohil at 1,038 m (3,406 ft), Beenkeragh at 1,010 m (3,310 ft) and Caher at 1,001 m (3,284 ft).

alt=“Climbing Ireland's highest mountain Carrauntoohil 6″>Valerie O'SullivanThe MacGillycuddy’s Reeks are Ireland’s highest mountain range

We chose the Coomloughra Horseshoe, which takes in all three peaks: first Beenkeragh, then Carrauntoohil and then Caher. Touted as one of Ireland's most beautiful hikes, the 13km walk showcases the best of the region's mountain scenery with panoramic views to the top of each peak.

The path is well-trodden, but still challenging. The rugged route climbs approximately 1,250 m (4,100 ft) in total and has some exciting climbing sections along some tricky, razor-sharp ridges. Here you will find exceptional views with some breathtaking cliffs down to steep gorges with hidden moraine pools.

The Coomloughra Horseshoe is much longer and more difficult than most Carrauntoohil climbing routes and should only be considered by those with hiking experience and appropriate clothing and equipment.

Hiking the Coomloughra Horseshoe

We started our climb at the Hydro Track car park, 10km south of Killorglin. The initial trail is a steep concrete path that climbs quickly to the entrance to the Horseshoe Cauldron. Here it is possible to see the rather daunting challenge of the hiking day ahead of you.

We crossed the Cottoners River, which flows from the adjacent lakes Lough Coomloughra and Lough Eagher, and began our upward march. We aimed for the approximate summit of Skregmore (Screig Mhór in Gaelic, meaning "small rocky hill") at 848m (2,782 feet) before turning southeast along the ridge to the summit of Beenkeragh, Ireland's second highest peak.

Beenkeragh is not the most alpine peak, but it offers the first views of the fertile pastures east of the Coomloughra Horseshoe, as well as the ridges leading to Carrauntoohil and on to Caher.

alt=“Climbing Ireland's highest mountain Carrauntoohil 7″>Valerie O'SullivanThe view from the horseshoe towards Beenkeragh

After a short rest we drove on to our next destination: Ireland's highest mountain. From the summit of Beenkeragh the path heads southwest to the Beenkeragh/Carrauntoohil Ridge, also known as Hag's Tooth Ridge. This is perhaps the most impressive section of the climb, with the summit of Carrauntoohil towering high above a razor-sharp path.

The always moody weather did not disappoint. Over the course of the climb it went from cloudy, drizzly and downright foggy to blue sky and sunshine and back again once or twice. A little snow was even thrown in for good measure. It hardly mattered: the unyielding scenery stubbornly kept appearing through the gaps in the clouds.

Crossing the ridge gave us some of the best views of the walk, with steep slopes to emerald lakes on one side and gentler slopes to the shores of Lough Coomloughra and Lough Eagher on the other.

alt=“Climbing Ireland's highest mountain Carrauntoohil 3″>Valerie O'SullivanView along the ridges towards Carrauntoohil and Caher

After a long rugged section of spectacular climbing along the ridge, the terrain eases out a bit before the final climb up to the summit of Carrauntoohil and the highest point in Ireland. A 5 m (16 ft) steel cross was erected at the summit, marking the occasion and providing a distinctive support for summit shots.

Located on the west coast of Ireland, it is possible to see the Dingle Peninsula and Kenmare Bay and even the mountains of North Cork from the summit of Carrauntoohil. With the weather we couldn't see that far, but the scenery was still excellent.

From here we continued on over the Caher Ridge, which is not as uncertain or rugged as the Beenkeragh Ridge but still gets the heart racing. It starts off relatively flat before climbing sharply near the summit of Caher, Ireland's third highest mountain and our final peak of the day.

alt=“Climbing Ireland's highest mountain Carrauntoohil 2″>Valerie O'SullivanCrossing the Beenkeragh/Carrauntoohil Ridge

This was our last opportunity to relax and enjoy the panoramic views before we begin our descent from the ridge. From here it was pretty leisurely: downhill over boggy, boulder-strewn foothills, then back to Lough Eagher.

There we found ourselves at the same river crossing where we had started that morning, this time looking back to see the day's challenge now triumphantly behind us. After that it was just a short walk down the path to the parking lot.

Wrapped in some of Ireland's most breathtaking scenery, MacGillycuddy's Reeks promise the most beautiful views in the Kingdom of Kerry - and there's no better way to see them than by climbing Carrauntoohil, Ireland's highest mountain.

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Valerie O'Sullivan

Coomloughra horseshoe map

Distance: 13.2 kmDuration: 5-7 hours

Climbing Carrauntoohil: the essentials

What: Climbing Carrauntoohil, Ireland's highest mountain, in the Reeks District of Kerry.

Where: I stayed at Carrig Country House & Restaurant, a charming Victorian country estate picturesquely situated on the shores of Caragh Lake near the small town of Killorglin. The grounds boast acres of verdant gardens, immaculately maintained right down to the lake shore.

Inside, there are a number of period-style bedrooms, several drawing rooms and an excellent lakeside restaurant, all decorated with period furnishings. The mansion is owned and run by Frank and Mary along with their friendly team who are always on hand to help or chat about the area's rich history.

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Carrig Country House & Restaurant

Caragh Lake lies at the foot of the lower northern slopes of MacGillycuddy's Reeks at the head of the Caragh Valley, within easy reach of the region's activities. Typical experiences include hiking, cycling, surfing and kayaking.

When: The best time to climb Carrauntoohil is during the summer months from June to August. However, this is also high season and coincides with the school holidays from late July to August.

The shoulder seasons of April to May and September to October are also great for hiking, but the weather is more unpredictable. During the winter months the slopes are likely to be covered in snow, so winter mountaineering skills and equipment are essential.

How: I climbed Carrauntoohil as part of a guided climb with Kerry Climbing, who have years of experience as mountain guides in the Kerry region. They run a range of guided routes for different experience and fitness levels, as well as climbing and climbing courses.

For more information, visit their website or contact them at info@kerryclimbing.ie, +353 87 744 0523 or +353 87 932 3527. For information about what to do in the area, visit the Reek District website.

The Reeks District lies in the middle of Kerry with Killorglin the most central town in the region. Killorglin is a 20-minute drive from Kerry Airport and is served by flights from Dublin (Aer Lingus Regional) and London Luton and Stansted, Frankfurt-Hahn, Berlin-Schönefeld, Alicante and Faro (all Ryanair). Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

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Photographer Valerie O’Sullivan captures the region’s rich heritage and traditions in The MacGillycuddy’s Reeks: People and Places of Ireland’s Highest Mountain Range – an excellent addition to the coffee table.

Disclosure: I traveled to Ireland with the support of the Mid Kerry Tourism Cluster. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

Main image: Valerie O’Sullivan

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