Clovelly Village: the land that time forgot

Clovelly Village: the land that time forgot

Clovelly Village is a picturesque, historic fishing village on the north coast of Devon. It is also a village that seems to have forgotten time

Until recently we hadn't even heard of Clovelly Village, a picturesque collection of houses on the north coast of Devon. During our recent glamping trip we came across Clovelly on a day trip from camp.

We were completely enchanted by the unique English village, characterized by steep, cobbled streets that lead past traditional whitewashed 16th-century cottages to a tiny harbor below. It is also one of the few car-free places in the UK.

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Unusually, the village of Clovelly is privately owned, one of only a dozen such privately owned villages in Britain. It once belonged to the royal family, but since the mid-13th century, almost 800 years ago, the village has only been associated with three families. Today the village, estate and manor house of Clovelly Court are run by the Clovelly Estate Company, run by a descendant of the Hamlyn family, owners since 1738.

The first part of our day was spent walking along part of the South West Coast Path, which runs west from the village towards the Hartland Peninsula.

We took a short walk (5km/3 miles) from the village along the coastal path along the cliffs to Bideford Bay, where the striking Blackchurch Rock juts out from the peninsula. Blackchurch Rock is a natural arch with two windows carved by erosion - the perfect place to take a breather before the return hike.

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The circular hike takes about 2-3 hours if you take into account the numerous photo stops. We were always battling the weather as rain clouds and brisk winds were never far away. It was British spring, after all.

After our short hike we headed down to the village of Clovelly, home to about 450 people. Some continue to make a living from fishing and can be seen mending their nets on the quay. However, most work in the numerous services set up for tourism. In Clovelly you're never far from a tearoom, pub lunch or craft shop.

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Despite the influx of tourists, the village of Clovelly has retained its relaxed, traditional charm. Only traditional building materials such as stone and clay are used in the ongoing restoration. No holiday homes are allowed in the main town and no concessions are made to the tourism industry. Subsequently, the village of Clovelly remains a living, working village.

Clovelly's strict car-free policy means the route down to the village follows steep cobbled streets that wind down to the harbor. Donkeys were once used to ferry tourists to the village, but these are now retired. A Land Rover service has since replaced it.

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• alt=“Clovelly-Dorf Blackchurch Rock“>
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The harbor below is the perfect place to while away an hour or two with a cream tea or ice cream (or both). At the water's edge you can watch the tides come and go as village life slowly ticks by.

You might as well take your time here and relax - the way back up is much harder than the way down!

CLOVELLY VILLAGE ESSENTIALS

What: Visit to the village of Clovelly in Devon, UK.

Where: We stayed at Koa Tree Camp in north Devon. Contact the owner, Andy, on 07492 750861 or andy@koatreecamp.com. There is a selection of Mongolian yurts, bell tents and log cabins to choose from.

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• alt=“Glamping in Devon Koa Tree – Regentagesraum“>
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When: Unfortunately you can never rely on complete dryness in England, but June to August is definitely the driest and warmest time of the year. However, it is also high season and availability could be an issue in this popular region of England - particularly during the school holidays from late July to August.

How: Visitors can only access the village on foot and must pay an entrance fee of £7 ($10 USD). There are discounts for children and families. The entry price includes parking, a 20-minute film, entry to the two museums and Clovelly Court Gardens.

We rented a car and drove down from London. Clovelly Village is just off the A39, 10 miles west of Bideford. Leave the M5 at junction 27.

The nearest train station is Barnstaple, where buses run regularly throughout the day from Barnstaple to Clovelly. Bus timetables can be found here.

There are regular bus and train services from London to Exeter, where connections can be found to Barnstable. Book buses through National Express or Megabus for cheaper prices. Trains can be booked through National Rail. Book well in advance to get the best prices across all sites.

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Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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