A break from Buddhism at Inle Lake, Myanmar

A break from Buddhism at Inle Lake, Myanmar

The variety of activities at Inle Lake offers a different perspective on life in Myanmar

Burma without Buddhism would be like Rome without religion: a country without identity, without its most vibrant colors. Undoubtedly, Buddhism, with its extraordinary monuments and monasteries, makes the country what it is: spiritual, mystical and all the other adjectives that Western writers apply to Eastern exoticism.

Burma, now known as Myanmar, is the East of pamphlets: mist rising over quiet lakes and robed monks in echoing chambers. Myanmar does not disappoint. But much like Angkor Wat in Cambodia, it can exhaust all but the most avid temple-goers.

With this in mind, I was happy about a varied day at Inle Lake. There were stupas and monasteries (of course), but also extraordinary locals who provided a tiny slice of life on the lake.

Activities at Inle Lake

1. In it

We began our boat tour on Inle Lake in Inthein, a lakeside village dotted with ancient stupas. Our first glimpse was of Nyaung Ohak, a series of unrestored pagodas, both besieged and embellished by surrounding foliage. Plants and trees burst from crumbling brick in an absurd mood more befitting Disney films.

alt="Inthein is one of the best things to do on Inle Lake">Atlas & BootsExploring Inle Lake is one of the best things to do on Inle Lake and the surrounding area

Unfortunately, our group of nine only had a few minutes alone before a tour bus full of other tourists arrived. In search of peace and quiet, we spread out among the pagodas and soon came across the Shwe Inn Thein, a second group of pagodas accessed via a covered staircase. The elevated pagodas are better restored and therefore less charming, but still impressive. Overall, we found Inthein to be one of the best things to do on Inle Lake and the surrounding area.

2. Mya Hintha silver workshop

The heat hit us as we entered Mya Hintha's silversmith workshop, the second stop on our Inle Lake boat tour. Countertops lined the wall with young men hunched over their latest projects, using their nimble fingers to fashion pieces of stone silver into glittering fish or delicate cookware.

alt=“Mya Hintha silversmith workshop”>Atlas & BootsA demonstration in the Mya Hintha silversmith workshop

We watched a silver smelting demonstration and then made a usual stop at the gift shop. There was no pressure to buy, so I idly strolled through the aisles while others in the group eagerly snapped up a bargain or two. Soon we were back on the boat and heading to our next stop.

3. “Long-necked” Kayan women

I felt a little uncomfortable with our stop to see the “long-neck” Kayan women of Inle Lake, as these types of people staring can feel like an intrusion. As tourists lined up to have their photos taken with the women, I snuck back uncertainly.

alt=“the long-necked Kayan women of Inle Lake”>Atlas & BootsThe long-necked Kayan women of Inle Lake

However, our guide explained that many Kayan women rely on tourism to make money and that their work was quite palatable given the lack of alternatives. Our group chose not to pose with the women, but we did donate a small amount of money. It felt like the right thing to do.

4. Phaung Daw Oo Paya, Tha Ley

Phaung Daw Oo Paya is considered the holiest religious site in Myanmar's southern Shan State. The tiered pagoda houses five ancient Buddha statues or “images” that stand on a raised base in the center of the main chamber. The images are almost formless given the amount of gold leaf applied by pilgrims.

alt="Phaung Daw Oo Paya at Inle Lake">Atlas & BootsPhaung Daw Oo Paya on Inle Lake

Unfortunately, women are not allowed on the raised platform, so instead we went to a large ornate barge moored outside. The barge is shaped like a hintha (the golden swan of Burmese legend) and is used to ferry the Buddha statues around the lake during the annual Phaung Daw Oo festival.

5. Weaving

The next stop on our boat tour on Inle Lake took us to a weaving factory. Here we had the opportunity to see local women weaving fine shawls in a variety of materials and colors.

alt="Weaving at Inle Lake">Atlas & BootsWeaving at Inle Lake

We also learned about thanaka, a pale yellow cosmetic paste that is applied to the faces and arms of local women and, to a lesser extent, men. Thanaka is used both as sun protection and for aesthetic reasons. A few members of our group dabbed at Thanaka's face, but I, ever the Brit, held back.

6. Floating Gardens

The next part of our tour was one of my favorite things to do at Inle Lake. As the sun sank low, our narrow boat glided past floating islands tied with weeds and water hyacinths. These islands function as living and working communities and can be cut, rearranged and moved using boats - even sold like a piece of land.⠀

alt="Seeing the floating islands is one of the most enjoyable things to do on Inle Lake">bSeeing the floating islands is one of the most enjoyable things to do on Inle Lake

The sloppy silhouettes of lashed bamboo provided a picturesque view of life on the lake and a magnificent backdrop for numerous photos.

7. Intha Fishermen

On the way to our final stop, we spotted the famous “leg-rowing” fishermen of Inle Lake. This unique technique allows fishermen to keep the boat moving, see beneath the hyacinths on the surface of the lake and cast their nets with both hands.

alt=”One of Inle Lake’s famous “leg-rowing” fishermen”>Atlas & BootsOne of Inle Lake's famous “leg-rowing” fishermen

We sailed past the fishermen in one of those moments that often happen when traveling: when everything is so foreign, so incredibly different, that your senses feel raw and alive.

Soon the temperature dropped and we wrapped ourselves in blankets provided on the boat and headed to our final stop.

8. Nga Hpe Kyaung (Monastery of the Jumping Cat), Nga Phe

The “Monastery of the Jumping Cat” is famous for the cats that were once trained to jump through hoops.

alt="The Monastery of the Jumping Cats no longer has any jumping cats">Atlas & BootsThe Jumping Cats Monastery no longer has jumping cats

All the cats that exist now don't so much jump as laze around. Nevertheless, the last stop of our boat tour on Inle Lake was worth a break. The monastery's echoing main chamber maintains a gentle, tranquil mood, perfect for pausing and reflecting. As I wandered through the dark corners, my mind still and still, I realized that I was once again ready for a dose of Buddhist spiritualism.

Activities at Inle Lake: the essentials

What: We visited Inle Lake in Myanmar as part of a 13-day cycling tour of Myanmar (Burma).

Where: The tour began in Yangon, the country's largest metropolis, before heading north to Inle Lake, Pindaya and Mandalay, then to central Myanmar with Mount Popa and the Irrawaddy River before ending in Bagan.

Accommodation included 10 nights in comfortable tourist class hotels, one night in a guest house and one night in a monastery (classified as homestay).

When: The best time to visit Myanmar is from October to March, when the monsoon has subsided and temperatures are pleasant. It gets very hot in the country from April to May.

The central regions where Bagan and Mandalay are located can reach temperatures of over 40°C - not ideal for cycling! From May to September there are heavy rains with the southwest monsoon. During this time, roads may become impassable, particularly from July to September. From October the rains decrease.

How: We booked G Adventures' 13-day Myanmar bike tour, priced from €2,499 (US$2,730) per person. The price includes all accommodation, 12 breakfasts, four lunches, one dinner, bike rental (including helmets and water bottles), domestic flights, transportation, an amazing Chief Experience Officer throughout the trip, and additional support staff including experienced guides, mechanics, and drivers.

For more information or to book, call 0344 272 2040 or visit gadventures.co.uk.

Please note that prices do not include international flights and there are no direct flights from the UK. However, several airlines offer one-stop flights from London Heathrow via Dubai, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore or Bangkok. Book via skyscanner.net.

If you're considering a bike tour somewhere, check out our five tips for bike travelers.

old=““>

Lonely Planet Myanmar is a comprehensive travel guide to Myanmar, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Disclosure: We traveled to Myanmar with support from G Adventures. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

      .