Climbing the seven peaks: a path to the top

Climbing the seven peaks: a path to the top

Climbing the Seven Summits - the highest mountains on all continents - is an unlikely dream of mine... but that's the beauty of dreams

I have always loved trekking and climbing. I typically spend several weeks each year on the climbs of the Scottish Highlands or Welsh Snowdonia, or ideally further afield such as the Arctic Circle Trail in Greenland or the K2 Base Camp Trek in Pakistan.

It was one of those trekking trips – to Tanzania in 2010 – that sparked something new in me. While climbing Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, an idea, an ambition, began to form.

My hobby became a passion and I realized that I wanted to achieve something big: climb the Seven Summits, the highest mountains on all continents.

For a long time it remained nothing more than a concept. Then, after a seven-year wait, I climbed Elbrus in Russia, the highest mountain in Europe.

Three years later, in 2020, I went to Argentina and climbed Aconcagua, the highest mountain in South America and my third of the seven peaks.

In 2018 I also climbed Kosciuszko in Australia, but I don't count that because I'm on the "Messner list", which means that Kosciuszko is not a seven peak.

Without a doubt, Kosciuszko is the highest mountain on mainland Australia. However, the highest mountain on the wider Australian continent (Oceania) – which includes Australia, New Zealand and thousands of islands in the Indian and Pacific Oceans – is Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid) in Indonesia at 4,884 m (16,024 ft).

Climbing the Seven Summits

While I have no doubt about the technical and physical challenges I will face climbing the seven peaks, the biggest challenge will likely be financial. Climbing the Seven Summits isn't cheap.

I crossed out the “cheap” and “easy” ones, so to speak. Kili, Elbrus and Aconcagua are all relatively easy to access and do not require advanced mountaineering skills or specialist training, which also helps keep the cost of climbing them relatively low.

The remaining ones – Denali, Everest, Puncak Jaya and Vinson – all present their own unique challenges, be it a technical test, hostile weather conditions, poor accessibility or altitude.

All mountains have one thing in common: they are expensive to climb.

I don't claim to have all the answers, but I have spent hours upon hours researching how to make my dream come true. Below I list how I (and others like me) can have the best chance of climbing the seven peaks and achieving our unlikely dream.

1. Kilimanjaro

Location: Africa (Tanzania) Altitude: 5,895 m (19,341 ft) Range: None - Freestanding Duration: 5-6 days Rating: T1 Cost: $2,000-$4,000

alt="Peter on the summit of Kilimanjaro in Tanzania">Atlas & BootsAt the summit of Kilimanjaro in Tanzania

What a mountain to start with. Kilimanjaro is one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. It is the highest free-standing mountain in the world and requires no mountaineering experience as it is completely non-technical.

All of this makes it the ideal introduction to the world of high-altitude and multi-day expeditions.

• Besteigung des Kilimandscharo: Afrikas höchster Gipfel
• Training für den Kilimandscharo: 7 Tipps für einen erfolgreichen Gipfel

It was the first seven peak summit I have completed and it is by far the easiest. There are several easy to moderate routes to the summit, making it one of the most popular hikes in the world - so don't expect to have the trail to yourself.

Course “Introduction to Winter Mountaineering”.

After Kilimanjaro, I spent five days in the Scottish Highlands in the middle of winter, learning basic crampons, ice ax and rope techniques. The training program also covered climbing knots, belays, snow anchoring and avalanche assessment.

I joined Jagged Globe for an “Introduction to Winter Mountaineering” course, but there are many facilities that offer similar courses. The European Alps or Mount Rainier in the USA are popular alternative destinations.

2. Mount Elbrus

Location: Europe (Russia) Altitude: 5,642 m (18,510 ft) Range: Caucasus Mountains Duration: 7 days Rating: 1C Cost: $2,000-$4,000

alt="Ascent of the Seven Summits Elbrus">Atlas & BootsPeter on the summit of Elbrus

I use these winter mountaineering skills on Europe's highest mountain. Climbers should ideally avoid using the cable cars and chairlifts to really test themselves on the icy slopes of Elbrus, which require good crampons and ice ax techniques.

• Besteigung des Elbrus: mein zweiter Siebengipfel
• Elbrus-Ausrüstungsliste: Alles, was Sie brauchen, um Europas höchsten Gipfel zu besteigen

I joined Russian Seven Summits specialist 7 Summits Club for an eight-day climb of the West Peak.

3. Aconcagua

Location: South America (Argentina)Altitude: 6,962 m (22,841 ft)Area: AndesDuration: 14-17 daysRating: 1ACost: $5,000-7,000

alt="interesting facts about Aconcagua">Atlas & BootsPeter on the summit of Aconcagua

The second highest peak of the Seven and the highest mountain outside of Asia, Aconcagua is a sinfully high mountain. The route is non-technical and is often referred to as the “highest trekking peak in the world”.

• Besteigung des Aconcagua: mein dritter Siebengipfel
• Aconcagua-Ausrüstungsliste: Alles, was Sie für den Gipfelerfolg brauchen
• Wie man den Aconcagua besteigt: alle Ihre Fragen beantwortet

Ideally it would be climbed later in the program on the way to or from the climb of Vinson in Antarctica. However, I don't currently (ha, ever will?) have access to the money needed for Vinson, so it was the next logical step for me.

I climbed Aconcagua via the “normal route” with Acomara Aconcagua Expeditions.

Intermediate/advanced winter mountaineering course

Next I would like to improve my winter mountaineering skills. I could combine an intermediate and advanced course in Scotland or the European Alps, but ideally I'll take a Denali prep course at Mount Rainier.

The goal is to further refine my crampons, ice ax and rope skills and gain more experience climbing glaciated peaks.

Oberland 4000m / Mont Blanc

This is optional, but I like the idea of ​​keeping the skills acquired above as fresh as possible leading up to Denali.

A trip to the Alps to climb either some of the Oberland 4,000ers or Mont Blanc provides the perfect opportunity to get more training and ensure my rope work is intuitive as I tackle Denali.

4. Denali

Location: North America (USA) Altitude: 6,194 m (20,322 ft) Range: Alaska Range Duration: 21-26 days Rating: 3D Cost: from $8,000 to $10,000

alt=“Climbing the Seven Peaks a route to the summit – Denali”>DreamtimeDenali's location in the far north makes it stormy and unpredictable

I'm planning on tackling Denali next as it's slightly cheaper than Puncak Jaya, but others may prefer to do it the other way around.

Denali is probably the second most difficult mountain of the Seven Summits. It is a tough campaign as the climbers have to carry heavy loads and transport equipment and supplies on sleds at the start of the expedition.

The notoriously stormy and unpredictable weather on a mountain at 63° North – that's just 3° south of the Arctic Circle – only makes matters worse. The advantage is that it is the perfect preparation for Vinson.

Climbing course

Before attempting Puncak Jaya, I plan to improve my climbing skills and work on special techniques like jumaring a hanging rope. There are several courses available in the UK, Europe or North America.

5. Puncak Jaya

Location: Oceania (Indonesia)Altitude: 4,884 m (16,024 feet)Area: Sudirman RangeDuration: 20 daysRating: 4ACost: from $10,000 to $15,000

alt="Climbing the Seven Summits Puncak Jaya">Wayne Morris/ShutterstockPuncak Jaya is probably the most technical climb of the seven peaks

Puncak Jaya, or Carstensz Pyramid, in Indonesia is probably the most technical climb of the seven peaks, and climbers must be able to rappel and jumar on a hanging rope. Although it is the lowest of the seven peaks, it should not be underestimated.

Reaching the mountain is a challenge in itself. Expeditions used to spend several days hiking to base camp, but these days most teams prefer to fly in by helicopter.

Costs appear to vary widely, with some expeditions priced at over $20,000. Local outfitters are invariably cheaper. I've heard reports from some who have organized an expedition for as little as $7,500.

6. Mount Vinson

Location: AntarcticaElevation: 4,892 m (16,050 feet) Range: Sentinel RangeDuration: 18 days Rating: 2B Cost: $40,000-$60,000

alt=“Ascent of the Seven Summits Vinson 2″>https://www.shutterstock.com/photosVinson is not tech-savvy, but far away from it all

The last of the seven peaks yet to be discovered, Vinson rises from the most hostile, isolated and yet untouched continent on Earth. This long climb, although technically moderate, should not be misjudged.

The combination of remoteness and potentially extreme conditions means you will need significant mountaineering experience to tackle this mountain. It's a long way from down there, so each climbing team must be completely self-sufficient throughout the expedition.

Cho Oyu, Nepal

Altitude: 8,201 m (26,906 ft) Duration: 40 days

Here is the ‘mock test’ for Everest. The high camp is at 7,400 m – much higher than I have camped before. Here I have to practice using oxygen and refine my clothing and equipment.

It is best to try Cho Oyu with a group of mountaineers who are also going to Everest soon. Together we can increase our chances on Everest. It is worth noting that Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world and the most climbed eight-thousander.

7. Mount Everest

Location: Asia (Nepal/China) Altitude: 8,848 m (29,029 ft) Range: Himalayas Duration: 60 days Rating: 4E Cost: $50,000-$75,000

alt="The summit of Mount Everest seen from base camp">Atlas & BootsEverest is the highest mountain on earth

The great. The South Col route of Nepal remains the most realistic route. It's technically easier and with the top camp at just under 8,000m it means climbers spend less time in the 'death zone'. This is my best chance to climb Sagarmāthā.

Although success and survival rates have improved dramatically over the past few decades, I am not kidding myself for a minute. As of March 2019, records indicate that there have been over 280 deaths on Everest (probably 288) - 72 since 2010.

Another 11 died during a crowded 2019 season. This is the highest mountain on Earth and incredibly dangerous. Wish me luck.

Notes on climbing the Seven Summits

• Die Kosten werden so berechnet, dass Flugpreise aus dem Vereinigten Königreich enthalten sind.
• Zusätzliche Schulungen wären (natürlich) von Vorteil. Vor allem mehr Alpin- und Höhenpraxis.
• Dieses Programm basiert auf der Messner- oder Carstensz-Liste unter der Annahme, dass der höchste Punkt in Ozeanien der Puncak Jaya in Indonesien und nicht der Mount Kosciuszko in Australien ist.

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For an excellent analysis of each peak, see A Guide to Each Continent’s Highest Peak by professional mountain guide Mike Hamill.

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