Manyeleti Game Reserve: our first safari in South Africa

Manyeleti Game Reserve: our first safari in South Africa

A safari in South Africa is considered the ultimate wildlife viewing experience. We went to Manyeleti Game Reserve to see for ourselves

Our safari in South Africa was always going to be strange. Our expectations were fueled by the myth and drama of this famous destination, but equally tempered by our safari in Namibia, which was simply unsurpassable. With this in mind, we knew that South Africa would both delight and disappoint us.

Still, we really wanted to see the big dog of the African safari, famous for Kruger National Park, considered one of the best places in the world to see the “Big Five” (lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo). We chose the Manyeleti Game Reserve next door, which is an insider tip among those in the know.

What is Manyeleti Game Reserve?

Manyeleti, meaning “the place of stars” in the local Shangaan language, is a 230 km2 private game reserve in the Mpumalanga Province of South Africa. It shares unfenced boundaries with the private reserves of Timbavati to the north and Sabi Sand to the south, and the vast (19,485 km2) Kruger National Park to the east.

Thanks to the open border with Kruger, there is no shortage of animals in Manyeleti Game Reserve – including the Big Five.

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• alt=“Ein Nashorn wandert durch das Manyeleti Game Reserve“>
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• alt=“Ein Gepard in Ruhe“>
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Wildlife is a little harder to spot here than in Sabi Sand and Timbavati as there is less water, but the rewards are legion. Manyeleti is not only cheaper, but also much quieter.

Sabi Sands has a well-established name and is often chosen for this reason alone. Much lesser known, Manyeleti offers a more intimate experience with just three lodges. You will not find large tour groups traveling in buses here. In fact, you would have a hard time seeing anyone else at all.

A quiet place

Manyeleti Game Reserve is less developed than its counterparts and therefore attracts fewer tourists. The reason for this lies in South Africa's dark past. During the apartheid years, Manyeleti was the only game reserve where black South Africans could enter. Kruger National Park was closed to them at the time. Accordingly, the government has invested very little in Manyeleti.

old=““>Atlas & BootsA wild young male lion at rest

Manyeleti was established as a private game reserve in 1963. It belongs to the local Mnisi tribe, who have lived in the area for generations and have successfully claimed the land through South Africa's Restitution of Land Rights Act. The three private lodges on the reservation pay concession fees to the tribe.

The historic lack of government support means that the reserve remains relatively undeveloped to this day. Of course, wildlife doesn't care about politics or commerce, and you'll find that Manyeleti Game Reserve offers wildlife viewing that rivals its well-kept neighbors with far fewer people.

Our safari in Manyeleti

We spent three nights at Honeyguide Khoka Moya Camp in Manyeleti Game Reserve. This cost a fair bit more than we would normally pay, but it was the last three nights of our month and we didn't want to miss out on a safari in South Africa, said to be one of the best places in the world for wildlife viewing.

We arrived at Manyeleti Game Reserve after a five-hour drive from Eswatini (Swaziland). We were hot and stuffy and were happy to give up our car for three days (self-drive safari is not allowed in Manyeleti).

alt="Our safari tent in Manyeleti Game Reserve">Atlas & BootsOur safari tent in the Manyeleti Game Reserve

By the time we reached Manyeleti we had driven through Namibia, Lesotho and Eswatini and had seen four of the Big Five (all except buffalo). So we were in a carefree mood and not concerned with ticking the big five boxes as we set out on safari twice a day for the next three days.

By chance we saw our fifth of the Big Five when we encountered a herd of Cape buffalo. Although they are sometimes referred to as “bush cows,” it is foolish to underestimate them. African buffalo can run faster than 35 miles per hour and are notoriously bad-tempered, especially when cornered or wounded.

alt=“A buffalo stares at Manyeleti Game Reserve”>Atlas & BootsA buffalo stares at us

Of course, the highlight of our trip wasn't the buffaloes, but rather an extraordinary encounter with a pride of lions. We set off early on the second morning and found 12 (!) lions drinking from a waterhole. Some of them trotted right past our vehicle before swarming out to stalk unseen prey. We watched as they hunted in packs and roamed through the riverine vegetation.

Equally unusual was a small herd of elephants that confiscated our swimming pool several times. Some also came to visit us at breakfast. There are no boundaries here and the animals can move freely. In fact, guests are not allowed to wander the grounds alone after dark. Instead, you have to call the front desk and ask for an escort. This is true bushveld wilderness.

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On our last day we even saw a single rhino. If we hadn't just been to Eswatini (rhino galore), this might have been the highlight of our South African safari.

The only one of the Big Five that we didn't see in Manyeleti was the leopard, the most elusive of all. However, we were compensated by the sight of a cheetah stalking across a dawn-lit plain.

alt="A Lonely Rhinoceros (Atlas & Boots)">Atlas & BootsA lone rhino

On our last night in the safari tent, I joked with Peter that this was probably the type of accommodation Prince Harry and Meghan Markle stayed in on their trip to Botswana. He laughed and said, “No, they must have stayed somewhere much more exclusive.”

If exclusive is supposed to be expensive, then he's probably right. However, when it comes to a special place that is revealed to only a few people at a time, then there is no greater exclusivity than that of Manyeleti.

Manyeleti Game Reserve: Notes and Tips

• Das Manyeleti Game Reserve hat keine Richtlinien für Selbstfahrer, daher müssen Sie an offiziellen Pirschfahrten teilnehmen, die von Ihrer Lodge durchgeführt werden.
• Die Lodges sind nicht eingezäunt und Wildtiere können frei eintreten. Aus diesem Grund dürfen Gäste nach Einbruch der Dunkelheit nicht alleine herumlaufen. Rufen Sie die Rezeption an, um eine Eskorte zu arrangieren.
• Das Honeyguide Khoka Moya Camp hat eine gemeinsame Essensrichtlinie, daher gibt es ein bisschen Glück in Bezug auf die Essensbegleiter. Wir saßen mit einer Familie mit drei Kindern zusammen und obwohl wir auf Anfrage einen eigenen Tisch bekamen, sorgte dies für einige Verwirrung. Bereiten Sie sich darauf vor, mit anderen zu speisen.
• Befolgen Sie die Safari-Etikette: Tragen Sie neutrale Farben, machen Sie keine lauten Geräusche, blockieren Sie nicht die Sicht anderer oder seien Sie egoistisch mit erstklassigen Aussichtspunkten.
• Packen Sie Schichten, lange Ärmel, geschlossene Schuhe und Insektenschutz ein. Es ist auch eine gute Idee, Ihr eigenes Fernglas einzupacken.
• Versehen Sie Ihren Standort nicht mit Geo-Tags und senden Sie keine Live-Updates, wenn Sie Wildtiere beobachten. Wilderer können Social-Media-Updates nutzen, um Nashörner zu lokalisieren.
• Lassen Sie sich nicht davon abhalten, die Big Five zu sehen. Denken Sie daran, dass die Natur nicht kontrolliert werden kann.

Manyeleti Game Reserve: the essentials

What: Safari in Manyeleti Game Reserve, South Africa.

Where: We stayed at Honeyguide Khoka Moya Camp, which has 15 permanent safari tents spread along an elevated boardwalk in the bush. Each tent has a living area, a covered terrace and a huge bathroom. The camp features a swimming pool, bar and open lounge area built around a sunken living room and cozy fire pit.

• alt=“Ein Safarizelt im Manyeleti Game Reserve“>
• alt=“Innenraum eines Zeltes im Manyeleti Game Reserve“>
• alt=“Innenraum eines Zeltes im Manyeleti Game Reserve“>
• alt=“Auf Safari in Südafrika“>
• alt=“Löwen passieren unser Fahrzeug“>
• alt=“Ein Wasserloch im Manyeleti Game Reserve“>
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Communal meals are served three times daily: à la carte when there are few guests; Buffet for larger groups. Game drives depart twice a day: at around 6:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m., depending on the season.

When: Wildlife viewing is best during the dry winter (May-October), as animals congregate around waterholes and the lack of vegetation allows guests a clearer view. In spring (November to December) you can see many newborns.

Summer (December to March) is best for bird watching: the rivers are full and the bushland is lush. Fall (April to May) is good for bird watching, but the worst months for big game.

How: We rented a car from Avis in Durban, South Africa and drove to Manyeleti Game Reserve via Eswatini (Swaziland). We organized logistics on the go with Travel SIM, which works in numerous countries with a single card and phone number.

South African Airlines offers flights to some airports near the reserve. Honeyguide recommends flying from OR Tambo Johannesburg International Airport (JNB) to Hoedspruit Eastgate Airport (HDS). Your lodge can arrange a road transfer from Hoedspruit to Manyeleti (50 minutes).

We flew to South Africa with South African Airways. Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

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Lonely Planet South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland is a comprehensive travel guide to South Africa, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

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