Simien Mountains National Park: Trekking in the Grand Canyon Africa

Simien Mountains National Park: Trekking in the Grand Canyon Africa

Would Ethiopia's National Park Simien Mountains do justice to the hype after Erta ale and Dallol?

When the Simien-Mountains National Park was really "Africa Grand Canyon", how did it come about that I didn't know about it? Was that just Peters trick to drag me back to camp?

I knew the park by name, but I couldn't show it on a card or tell you what I could find there. To be honest, I had no idea before planning our trip that there is real mountains in Ethiopia-perhaps a result of Tia syndrome, the dusty, flying views, and not the huge gorges of lush beauty that populate the Simien-Mountains National Park.

And so I made myself with my expectations in check. After seeing the fire oven of Erta Ale, the yellow lakes of Dallol and the Felsenkirchen of Lalibela and Tigray, I thought I had seen the best of Ethiopia. But no, this unfathomable country still had to sell a jewel.

Alt = "Trekking in the Simien-Mountains National Park"> Atlas & Boots A typical sight in the Simien Mountains

We booked a 4-day hike at the excellent SimieneCotours and met our tour guide Yirga early in the morning for the trip from Gondar to Debark. There we took a break to give up our heavier luggage, to regulate the entry formalities and to pick up our obligatory armed escort, also called "Scout". We were told that this practice is more used to employ the local people than to protect themselves from a real danger. Unlike in the Danakil-Senke, there is no separatist violence and no real threat from wild animals.

Together with our scout Johannes we made our way to the park and seriously started our hike. We reached the first viewpoint within a few minutes.

Alt = “Peter at the first viewpoint of our Simien-Mountains National Park hike”> Atlas & Boots Peter at the first viewpoint on our Simien Mountains Trek

It felt like fraud. Usually we would hike for hours to achieve such a view. Today we stood on the threshold of an extraordinary gorge just five minutes after our hike. I realized that comparisons with the Grand Canyon were not exaggerated. The Simien-Mountains National Park would be exceptional.

The park was carved over millions of erosion for over millions and is a huge boiler of rugged peaks, deep gorges and sharp abysses, which plunge about 1,500 m (4,920 feet) into the depths.

The park also houses several rare species, including the Gelada Pavian, the Walia Steinbock and the Ethiopian wolf, the rarest canids in the world. While there are around 300 Ethiopian wolves in the Bale Mountains in the south, only 70 live in the Simien. In view of the fact that the park extends over an area of ​​220 km², our chances of seeing one were quite low.

alt = “The Walia-Steinbock is one of several endemic species in Ethiopia”> Atlas & Boots The Walia Steinbock is one of several endemic species in Ethiopia

The efforts to protect the Ethiopian wolf are part of a more comprehensive nature conservation initiative. The Simien-Mountains National Park was included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 in order to curb human interventions. At the time of the entry, 80 % of the park was used in any form of people.

Today the UNESCO lists threats to the park as "human settlement, cultivation and soil erosion; frequent fires in the tree heath forest; and excessive number of domestic inventory."

The UNESCO hopes that close cooperation with the local communities, increased training of the staff and the possible expansion of the parking boundaries will help to protect the area and its rare species.

alt = “Walk along the cliffs of the Simien Mountains”> Atlas & Boots The Simien-Mountains National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

This commitment to nature conservation became clear in our guide Yirga, who spoke passionately and expertly about the spectacular landscape. While we wandered away with wide views of rugged cliffs and rugged, gorge -like lowlands, Yirga pointed out on grapes of St. John's wort and Abyssinian wild rose and spoke lively of his love for these mountains and limitless beauty in them. To mention unnecessarily that we were completely enchanted.

After a relatively gentle trekking day of 8 km, we reached Sankaber, our first camp for the night. Located at 3,250 m (10,660 ft) above sea level, it offered enough time to acclimatize.

We enjoyed a delicious three-course menu, which was prepared by chef Messi and his assistant wall, and pulled back to our tent for the night. Fortunately, we were warned of the falling night temperatures, so we had many layers with which we could defy the cold.

The second day of the hike was more challenging with six hours of trekking over 13 km. We crossed the northern steep slope before we fell down to impressive views of the Jinbar waterfall. For lunch we stopped at the picturesque River Jinbar, which offered a welcome opportunity to refresh and rest.

Alt = “The Jinbar river in the Simien Mountains National Park offered the perfect place for lunch”> Atlas & Boots The Jinbar river offers a picturesque place for lunch

After lunch, we got up through terraced arable land to the village and drove to our warehouse to 3,600 m (11,810 ft). There we enjoyed another excellent dinner, followed by a welcome surprise: a hot water bottle for everyone!

Peter, always the gentlemen, give me his too. Perhaps this was just his last attempt to inaugurate me into the joys of camping, but I did not question his motivation. I wrapped myself in my three-year dauna sleeping bag, with a bottle of my feet and the other warmed up my upper body. To mention unnecessarily that it was a hot night.

The third day was even more challenging with a planned seven -hour trekking through 15 km of the hilly landscape of Simien Mountain National Park. When we climbed from Gich to the summit of the Imet Gogo to 3,926 m (12,880 ft), I started to feel the height. I continued with dwindling energy.

alt = “Imet Gogo offers one of the best viewpoints in the Simien Mountains National Park”> Atlas & Boots Imet Gogo has one of the best viewpoints in the Simien Mountains National Park

My efforts were rewarded with a spectacular 360-degree viewpoint over deep gorges, high-towering fibers and huge peaks-including Ras Dashen, the highest peak of the country with 4,550 m (14,930 ft).

We hiked along the embankment, then crossed a small valley before we climbed to the summit inatye. At 4,070 m (13,350 feet) it was not an easy undertaking and I felt how my limbs got tired and my pace decreased.

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Atlas & Boots

The answer was to my surprise.

The last day that contains a challenging climb to Ras Bwahit at 4,430 m (14,530 feet) for those who are ready and capable of shock in store. When we explored the area, we did not discover an Ethiopian wolf, but two. We were completely enthusiastic - especially Peter, who had wailed the weeks earlier that we would not visit the Bale Mountains and thus miss our chance to see the wolf.

alt = “Interesting facts about wolves in Ethiopia”> Atlas & Boots The rare Ethiopian Wolf

We were incredible happiness of four different sightings. Our host in Gondar had visited the Simien Mountains national parks six times and has never seen a wolf. It was an appropriate highlight of an idyllic hike.

In a way, the Simien-Mountains National Park is a microcosm of Ethiopia itself: beautiful, challenging, spacious, shocking. It is a source of large shame that I hardly knew that it existed. It undoubtedly fulfills me with great pride that I have now seen his beauty.

Simien-Mountains National Park: The essentials

was: A 4-day hike in the Simien Mountains National Park, Ethiopia.

Where: We tented in the Simien Mountains on three designated campsites. The parking spaces have case toilets and no flowing water. A shower block is currently being built on the first campsite. Tents and sleeping mats are provided by SimieneCotours. Bring your own sleeping bag with you.

When: The best travel time for the Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia is October to March when the sky is clear and the sun shines strong. A short rainy season takes place from February to March if there will probably be a short rainy season every day. Note that it gets very cold at night; The Simiens were described as "summer every day, winter every night". So pack a lot of layers!

like: We made a 4-day Simien Mountains hike with the excellent SimieneCotours. The prices vary between USD $ 220 and $ 400 if you take part in pre -defined departures that descend every Wednesday and Saturday.

The price includes the transfer of and to your hotel in Gondar, accommodation in two-person tents, all food and non-alcoholic drinks, all entry and camping fees for the park, scouts and parking guards, mules and mules for the transport of heavy material and experienced guide. Our guide Yirga was the most capable and expert person we met all over Ethiopia, so trust us: you will be in good hands.

The price does not include any drinking money. In ETB we have given tips as follows, which was 100-200 above the recommended amount (apart from the Mulemen, which should receive 200 by default).

• Koch: 700
• auxiliary chef: 500
• scout: 400
• Führer: 1,000
• Two Mulemen: 200
each

domestic flights are the fastest way to travel to Ethiopia (check the latest routes here). It is much cheaper to book flights in an Ethiopian Airlines office in the country. Be sure to state whether you have flown internationally with you because you are entitled to a significant discount.

You can organize private transfers from and Gondar via local hotels, but be aware that there is no official taxi service, so that you are at the mercy of the local dealmakers.

Addis Ababa is the most important international airport in the country. Book international flights via skyscanner.net.

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LONELY PLANET ETHIOPIA is a comprehensive travel guide for the country, ideal for those who want to explore the most important sights and take less busy roads. If you prefer to travel on a tour, we recommend G Adventures and their Ethiopia tours in small groups.

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