Simien Mountains National Park: Trekking in Africa's Grand Canyon

Simien Mountains National Park: Trekking in Africa's Grand Canyon

After Erta Ale and Dallol, would Ethiopia's Simien Mountains National Park live up to the hype?

If Simien Mountains National Park really was “Africa’s Grand Canyon,” how come I didn’t know about it? Was this just Peter's trick to get me camping again?

I knew the park by name, but couldn't show it on a map or tell you what I might find there. To be honest, before planning our trip, I had no idea that there were actual mountains in Ethiopia - perhaps a result of TIA syndrome, which conjures up dusty, fly-blown vistas rather than the vast canyons of lush beauty that populate Simien Mountains National Park.

And so I kept my expectations in check. After seeing the fiery furnace of Erta Ale, the yellow lakes of Dallol, and the rock-cut churches of Lalibela and Tigray, I thought I had seen the best of Ethiopia. But no, this unfathomable land still had a jewel to sell.

alt="Trekking in Simien Mountains National Park">Atlas & BootsA typical sight in the Simien Mountains National Park

We booked a 4 day trek with the excellent SimienEcoTours and met our guide Yirga early in the morning for the drive from Gondar to Debark. There we took a break to drop off our heavier luggage, complete immigration formalities and pick up our obligatory armed escort, also known as a “scout”. We are told that this practice is more to keep local people busy than to protect themselves from any real danger. Unlike the Danakil Depression, there is no separatist violence and no real threat from wildlife.

Together with our scout Johannes we made our way to the park and began our hike in earnest. Within a few minutes we reached the first viewpoint.

alt="Peter at the first viewpoint of our Simien Mountains National Park hike">Atlas & BootsPeter at the first viewpoint on our Simien Mountains Trek

It felt like cheating. Normally we would hike for hours to reach a view like this. Today we found ourselves at the threshold of an extraordinary gorge just five minutes into our hike. I realized that comparisons to the Grand Canyon were not exaggerated. Simien Mountains National Park would be extraordinary.

Carved over millions of years by massive erosion, the park is a vast cauldron of jagged peaks, deep ravines and sharp precipices that plunge approximately 1,500 m (4,920 feet).

The park is also home to several rare species, including the Gelada baboon, the Walia ibex and the Ethiopian wolf, the rarest canid in the world. While there are about 300 Ethiopian wolves in the Bale Mountains to the south, only 70 live in the Simiens. Given that the park covers an area of ​​220 km², our chances of seeing one were pretty slim.

alt="The Walia ibex is one of several endemic species in Ethiopia">Atlas & BootsThe Walia ibex is one of several endemic species in Ethiopia

Efforts to protect the Ethiopian wolf are part of a broader conservation initiative. Simien Mountains National Park was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978 to limit human interference. At the time of entry, 80% of the park was in some form of human use.

Today, UNESCO lists threats to the park as "human settlement, cultivation and soil erosion; frequent fires in the tree heather forest; and excessive domestic stockpiles."

UNESCO hopes that close collaboration with local communities, increased staff training and possible expansion of the park boundaries will help protect the area and its rare species.

alt=”Hike along the cliffs of the Simien Mountains”>Atlas & BootsThe Simien Mountains National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

This commitment to conservation was evident in our guide, Yirga, who spoke passionately and knowledgeably about the spectacular landscape. As we hiked through sweeping vistas of rugged cliffs and rugged, canyon-like lowlands, Yirga pointed out clusters of St. John's wort and Abyssinian wild rose and spoke vividly of his love for these mountains and the boundless beauty within them. Needless to say, we were completely enchanted.

After a relatively gentle day of trekking of 8km, we reached Sankaber, our first camp for the night. Located at 3,250 m (10,660 ft) above sea level, it provided ample time to acclimatise.

We enjoyed a delicious three-course meal prepared by Chef Messi and his assistant Wandum and retired to our tent for the night. Luckily we had been warned about the plummeting nighttime temperatures, so we had plenty of layers to brave the cold.

The second day of the trek was more challenging with six hours of trekking covering 13km. We traversed the northern escarpment before dropping down to impressive views at Jinbar Waterfall. We stopped for lunch at the picturesque Jinbar River, which provided a welcome opportunity to refresh and rest.

alt="The Jinbar River in Simien Mountains National Park provided the perfect spot for lunch">Atlas & BootsThe Jinbar River offers a scenic spot for lunch

After lunch we climbed through terraced farmland to the village of Gich and continued to our camp at 3,600 m (11,810 ft). There we enjoyed another excellent dinner, followed by a welcome surprise: a hot water bottle for everyone!

Peter, gentlemen, give me his too. This may have been just his last attempt to introduce me to the joys of camping, but I didn't question his motivation. I wrapped myself in my three-season down sleeping bag, with one bottle warming my feet and the other my upper body. Needless to say, it was a hot night.

The third day was even more challenging with a planned seven-hour trek through 15km of the rolling countryside of the Simien Mountains National Park. As we climbed from Gich to the summit of Imet Gogo at 3,926 m (12,880 ft), I started to feel the altitude. I trudged on, my energy fading.

alt="Imet Gogo offers one of the best viewing points in Simien Mountains National Park">Atlas & BootsImet Gogo has one of the best viewpoints in Simien Mountains National Park

My efforts were rewarded with a spectacular 360-degree viewpoint over deep gorges, towering pinnacles and towering peaks – including Ras Dashen, the highest peak in the country at 4,550 m (14,930 ft).

We hiked along the escarpment, then crossed a small valley before climbing to Inatye Peak. At 4,070 m (13,350 feet) it was no easy feat and I felt my limbs growing tired and my pace slowing.

Luckily, Yirga was incredibly attuned to my struggles, offering frequent breaks and lots of encouragement. We soon reached the summit and were once again overwhelmed by the incredible views. Could Simien Mountains National Park get any better?

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Atlas & Boots

To my surprise, the answer was yes.

The final day, which includes a challenging climb to Ras Bwahit at 4,430 m (14,530 feet) for those willing and able, had another shock in store. As we explored the area, we spotted not one Ethiopian wolf, but two. We were absolutely thrilled - especially Peter, who had been complaining for the weeks before that we wouldn't visit the Bale Mountains and would therefore miss our chance to see the wolf.

alt="interesting facts about wolves in Ethiopia">Atlas & BootsThe rare Ethiopian wolf

We had the incredible luck of four different sightings. Our host in Gondar had visited the Simien Mountains national parks six times and had never seen a wolf. It was a fitting highlight to an idyllic hike.

In some ways, Simien Mountains National Park is a microcosm of Ethiopia itself: beautiful, challenging, vast, shocking. That I barely knew it existed is a source of great shame. Having now seen its beauty undoubtedly fills me with great pride.

Simien Mountains National Park: the essentials

What:A 4 day hike in Simien Mountains National Park, Ethiopia.

Where:We camped in the Simien Mountains at three designated campsites. The pitches have drop toilets and no running water. A shower block is currently being built at the first campsite. Tents and sleeping mats are provided by SimienEcoTours. Bring your own sleeping bag.

When:The best time to visit Simien Mountains National Park in Ethiopia is October to March when the sky is clear and the sun is strong. A short rainy season occurs from February to March, when there is likely to be a short rainy season every day. Note that it gets very cold at night; The Simiens were described as “summer every day, winter every night.” So pack lots of layers!

How:We did a 4 day Simien Mountains hike with the excellent SimienEcoTours. Prices vary from $220 to $400 if you take part in pre-scheduled sailings that depart every Wednesday and Saturday.

The price includes transfers to and from your hotel in Gondar, accommodation in two-person tents, all food and non-alcoholic drinks, all park entrance and camping fees, scouts and park rangers, mules and mules for transporting heavy material, and an experienced guide. Our guide Yirga was the most capable and knowledgeable person we met in all of Ethiopia, so trust us: you will be in good hands.

The price does not include tips. In ETB we tipped as follows, which was 100-200 over the recommended amount (apart from the Mulemen who should receive 200 by default).

• Koch: 700
• Hilfskoch: 500
• Späher: 400
• Führer: 1.000
• Zwei Mulemen: jeweils 200

Domestic flights are the fastest way to travel in Ethiopia (check the latest routes here). It is much cheaper to book flights at an Ethiopian Airlines office in the country. Be sure to mention if you flew internationally with them as you will be eligible for a significant discount.

You can arrange private transfers to and from Gondar via local hotels, but be aware that there is no official taxi service, so you'll be at the mercy of local dealmakers.

Addis Ababa is the country's main international airport. Book international flights via skyscanner.net.

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Lonely Planet Ethiopia is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled. If you prefer to travel in a tour, we recommend G Adventures and their small group Ethiopia tours.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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