Leap of faith: Hiking to the dizzying Tigray churches

Leap of faith: Hiking to the dizzying Tigray churches

To reach Ethiopia's Tigray churches, one must climb sheer cliffs, along narrow ledges and circumnavigate yawning chasms - all barefoot. Of course we took advantage of the opportunity

I was unusually nervous. It wasn't the narrow ledges with steep drops that frightened me, but the prospect of climbing with ropes - something I'd never done before.

However, when you look at Abuna Yemata Guh, you understand why ropes are useful. This rock-cut church in the Gheralta region of Ethiopia is carved into the side of a vertical rock tower that drops 200 m (650 ft) on all sides. To reach it, you have to climb a steep rock face barefoot and walk along a steep ledge. In fact, Abuna Yemata Guh is considered the least accessible place of worship in the world.

alt="Abuna Yemata Guh is carved into a vertical tower with 200m high slopes on all sides">Atlas & BootsAbuna Yemata Guh is carved into a vertical tower with 200m high slopes on all sides

Abuna Yemata Guh is one of around 120 Tigray churches carved into rock faces, caves and unlikely plateaus between the 4th and 15th centuries. The high perches were chosen, we are told, for their natural protection against enemies of the church.

We set off at 8am for the 45 minute drive to the base of the peak, mindful of the stories we had heard over dinner. One woman had given up halfway up the climb, while another was frozen on the final ledge.

I steeled myself as we said goodbye to our driver and began the hike with Haile, our guide. The first half hour was relatively gentle: steep, but definitely doable. Soon we came to a steep section and Haile got ready to climb. On the way he had taken four “scouts” with him to help us climb up. It was two too many, but we didn't argue with the men holding our ropes.

alt=“On the way to the Tigray churches a steep rocky section has to be navigated”>Atlas & BootsOn the way to the Tigray churches you have to climb steep rocky sections

I climbed into the harness and attached the rope. Maybe my first climbing experience would have been in onesomethingcan take place in a safer environment, I thought as I took the first step.

I started climbing, guided by a scout who was helpful but not quite as experienced as I would have liked. He once told me to hold on to a spindly tree that had grown out of a crack in the rock. I knew from climbing Nevis Peak that grabbing trees and roots should be a last resort to keep them from cracking and falling.

I inched up, remembering Peter's advice about maintaining three points of contact with the wall. The climb was just as exhilarating as the diving: the adrenaline pulsing in my chest as I was pushed just far enough out of my comfort zone.

alt="Kia reaches a solid plateau in Tigray churches">Atlas & BootsReaching a solid plateau on the way to Abuna Yemata Guh

After slow and careful progress, I leveled off, thrilled by the gradient but also happy to be on (relatively) solid ground. Peter followed me without difficulty and we continued upwards, hopping over rocks and climbing the walls.

Finally on the home stretch we found ourselves faced with a dangerously narrow ledge that literally dipped into a hole in the wall. We crossed carefully, then triumphantly entered the church, pausing at first to hide.

Inside we met a local priest who proudly told us that pregnant women, babies and old people attend Sunday services and no one has fallen away (yet).

We took some time to admire the well-preserved frescoes that adorn two domes and learned about Abuna Yemata, one of the nine saints who chose the top of Guh as the site of the church to protect it from the enemies of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.

Soon it was time to tackle two more Tigray churches: Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor, located close to each other high on a cliff.

alt="On the way to Maryam Korkor in the Tigray Mountains">Atlas & BootsOn the way to Maryam Korkor in Tigray

We made our way through boulder-strewn canyons, sheer rock faces that undulated like waves, and climbed higher and higher in pursuit of the Tigray churches.

Surprisingly, I found this hike more strenuous, even though I was now allowed to wear shoes. Maybe it was the sweltering heat or the fact that I hadn't eaten since early morning, but I found myself asking for breaks more often than usual.

After much effort we reached Maryam Kokor. The church itself wasn't very impressive, but the views of the surrounding area were worth the hike.

alt="Maryam Korkor is one of the better known Tigray churches">Atlas & BootsMaryam Korkor is one of the better known Tigray churches

Our final stop was Daniel Kokor, which we reached via another dizzying ledge. Consisting of two small chambers, Daniel Kokor is said to have served as a retreat for monks. The monk would have sat in a niche in the wall opposite the entrance so that he could see over the surrounding plains.

As we looked through the doorway over the edge of the cliff, we marveled at the achievements of human endeavor. Here, in one of the poorest countries in the world, lie architectural marvels that are largely unknown outside its borders. The Tigray churches may not be quite as impressive as Petra in Jordan or even neighboring Lalibela, but the sheer audacity of the construction is simply stunning. Needless to say, it's worth the leap of faith.

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Atlas & Boots

Tigray churches: the essentials

What: Hiking to the Tigray churches of Ethiopia, including a climb to Abuna Yemata Guh, Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor.

Where: We stayed at Gheralta Lodge, hands down our favorite place to stay in Ethiopia. Gheralta offers wonderfully cozy rooms scattered across a fairytale landscape of yellow meadows against a towering mountain backdrop. Friendly animals roam the grounds, including a beautiful horse named Caleb and his companion donkey.

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Atlas & Boots

After a hectic week in Ethiopia, Gheralta Lodge provided a much-needed base of peace and serenity. As newcomers, on our first evening we enjoyed a complimentary aperitif before a meal of fresh and simple Italian-Ethiopian flavors inspired by owners Enrica and Silvio Rizzotti.

Guests appeared to be mostly European and often gathered in the lounge area before dinner with a glass of wine or a cold beer. The relaxed, convivial atmosphere was the perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle that seems to define Ethiopia.

When: The best time to visit Tigray in Ethiopia is October to March, when most parts of the country experience pleasant temperatures, blue skies and low rainfall.

How: We visited the Tigray churches independently. We organized transportation through Gheralta Lodge (1,300ETB/$47 for the day) and picked up a mandatory guide from the Guide Association (your driver will know where to stop).

We visited three churches in one day: first Abuna Yemata Guh (2 hours round trip), followed by Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor (2.5 hours round trip). This was challenging in the heat, so you may want to split the visits over two days.

It's worth noting that the cost for the day quickly added up. In ETB, visiting the Tigray churches costs:

• 460 für den Führer
• 150 pro Gruppe für Seile (wir wurden pro Person berechnet, was nicht hätte der Fall sein dürfen)
• 150 Eintrittsgebühr pro Person bei Abuna Yemata
• 150 pro Person Eintrittsgebühr bei Maryam Korkor

We were also expected to tip each scout and priest at least 100 ETB (five on the first hike, one on the second hike) and the guide at least 200 ETB. If you shell out the full amount, fees and tips total 1,720 ETB ($63 USD).

We reached Gheralta with a private transfer from Wukro (600 ETB / 22 USD; 58 km; inquire at Wukro Lodge). A transfer from Mekele costs a little more. After our stay in Gheralta, we continued to Axum Airport via private transfer (ETB 2,200 / USD 80; 124 km, check with Gheralta Lodge). We encountered large price differences for transfers. Since there is no official taxi service, we were very much at the mercy of local traders and often had to smile and endure excessive prices.

Domestic flights are the fastest way to travel in Ethiopia (check the latest routes here). It is much cheaper to book flights at an Ethiopian Airlines office in the country. Be sure to mention if you flew internationally with them as you will be eligible for a significant discount.

Addis Ababa is the country's main international airport. Book international flights via skyscanner.net.

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Lonely Planet Ethiopia is a comprehensive travel guide to the country, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled. If you prefer to travel in a tour, we recommend G Adventures and their small group Ethiopia tours.

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