Preliminary trust: hike to the dizzying Tigray churches

Preliminary trust: hike to the dizzying Tigray churches

To reach the Tigray Churches Ethiopia, you have to climb steep rocks, narrow rocky stakes and round yawning abyss-all barefoot. Of course we took the chance

I was unusually nervous. It was not the narrow rocky promotes with steep slopes that frightened me, but the view of climbing ropes - something that I had never done before.

When looking at Abuna Yemata Guh, however, you understand why ropes make sense. This church, hewn in the rock in the Gheralta region in Ethiopia, has been carved into the side of a vertical rock tower, which drops 200 m (650 ft) on all sides. To achieve it, you have to climb a steep rock wall barefoot and walk along a steep rocky lead. In fact, Abuna Yemata Guh is the least accessible prayer place in the world.

alt = “Abuna Yemata Guh is hewn into a vertical tower with 200 m high slopes on all sides”> Atlas & Boots Abuna Yemata Guh is in a vertical tower with 200 m high slopes on all sides

Abuna Yemata Guh is one of around 120 Tigray churches that were carved into rock walls, caves and unlikely plateaus between the 4th and 15th centuries. As we are told, the high platforms were selected because of their natural protection against enemies of the church.

We broke up at 8 a.m. for the 45-minute drive to the foot of the top, in mind the stories that we had heard at dinner. A woman had given up halfway after half of the climb, while another was frozen on the last rock lead.

I stood when we started our driver and started the hike with Haile, our guide. The first half hour was relatively gentle: steep, but quite feasible. Soon we came to a steep section and Haile got ready to climb. On the way he had taken four "scouts" with him to help us get up. There were two too much, but we didn't fight with the men who kept our ropes.

alt = “On the way to the Tigray churches, a steep rock section must be driven”> Atlas & Boots On the way to the Tigray Churches, steep rock sections must be climbed

I climbed into the dishes and attached the rope. Perhaps my first climbing experience could have taken place in a somewhat safer environment, I thought when I stepped into the first step.

I started climbing, led by a scout who was helpful, but not quite as I would have liked it. Once he told me that I should stick to a droughts that had grown from a crevice. I knew about the ascent of the Nevis Peak that gripping trees and roots should be the last way out so that they don't tear and fall down.

I moved up to the centimeter and thought of Peters advice to keep three contact points to the wall. The climb was as exciting as diving: the adrenaline pulsed in my chest when I was pushed out of my comfort zone.

alt = “Kia reaches a solid plateau in the Tigray Church”> Atlas & Boots Reaching a solid plateau on the way to Abuna Yemata Guh

After slow and careful progress, I flatten, enthusiastic about the slope, but also happy to stand on (relatively) solid soil. Peter followed me without difficulty and we continued up, hopped over rocks and climbed the walls.

Finally on the home stretch we stood in front of a dangerously narrow lead that literally immersed in a hole in the wall. We crossed them carefully, then triumphantly entered the church and initially paused to hide.

We took some time to admire the well-preserved frescoes that decorate the two domes, and learned something about Abuna Yemata, one of the nine saints who selected the top of Guh as the location of the church to protect them from the enemies of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.

Soon afterwards it was time to tackle two more Tigray churches: Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor, who lie close to each other on a cliff.

alt = "On the way to Maryam Corker in the Tigray Mountains"> Atlas & Boots on the way to Maryam Korkor in Tigray

we made our way through rugged rocks covered with boulders, rugged rock walls that weighed like waves, and climbed higher and higher to track the Tigray Churches.

Surprisingly, I found this hike more strenuous, although I was now allowed to wear shoes. Maybe it was because of the brooding heat or because I hadn't eaten anything since the early morning, but I got myself that I asked for breaks more often than usual.

After many efforts we reached Maryam Kokor. The church itself was not very impressive, but the view of the surroundings was worth the hike.

alt = “Maryam Korkor is one of the more well-known Tigray Church”> Atlas & Boots Maryam Korkor is one of the more well-known Tigray Church

Our last stop was Daniel Kokor, whom we reached through another dizzying rocky lead. Consisting of two small chambers, Daniel Kokor is said to have served as a retreat for monks. The monk would have sat in a niche in the wall opposite the entrance so that it could see over the surrounding levels.

When we looked through the door opening over the edge of the cliff, we were amazed at the achievements of human striving. Here, in one of the poorest countries in the world, there are miracles of architecture that are largely unknown outside of their borders. The Tigray churches may not be as impressive as Petra in Jordan or even the neighboring Lalibela, but the sheer boldness of the construction is simply stunning. To mention unnecessarily that it is worth the advance of trust.

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Atlas & Boots

tigray churches: the essentials

what: hiking to the Tigray Churches of Ethiopia, including a promotion to Abuna Yemata Guh, Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor.

Where: We stayed in the Gheralta Lodge, undoubtedly our favorite accommodation in Ethiopia. Gheralta offers wonderfully cozy rooms that are scattered over a fairytale landscape from yellow meadows in front of a highly towering mountain backdrop. Friendly animals roam the terrain, including a beautiful horse called Kaleb and his companion donkey.

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Atlas & Boots

After a hectic week in Ethiopia, the Gheralta Lodge offered an urgently needed basis for calm and serenity. On our first evening, we enjoyed a free aperitif before a meal with fresh and simple Italian-Ethiopian flavors, inspired by the owners Enrica and Silvio Rizzotti.

The guests mainly seemed to be Europeans and often gathered before dinner with a glass of wine or a cold beer in the lounge area. The loose, sociable atmosphere was the perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle and hustle and bustle that seem to define the Ethiopia.

When: The best travel time for Tigray in Ethiopia is October to March when there are pleasant temperatures, blue sky and low rainfall in most parts of the country.

like: We visited the Tigray Churches independently. We organized the transport through the Gheralta Lodge (1,300 ETB / 47 USD for the day) and picked up an obligatory guide from the Guide Association (your driver will know where to stop).

We visited three churches in one day: first Abuna Yemata Guh (2 hours back and forth return), followed by Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor (2.5 hours return trip). This was a challenge in the heat, so you may want to divide the visits into two days.

It is worth noting that the costs for the day quickly added up. In ETB, visiting the Tigray Churches costs:

• 460 for the guide
• 150 per group for ropes (we were calculated per person, which should not have been the case)
• 150 admission fee per person at Abuna Yemata
• 150 per person entrance fee at Maryam Korkor

In addition, we expected to give each scout and priest at least 100 ETB (five of them on the first hike, one on the second hike) and the guide at least 200 ETB. If you cover the full amount, fees and tips amount to a total of 1,720 ETB ($ 63 $).

We reached Gheralta with a private transfer from Wukro (600 ETB / 22 USD; 58 km; inquire at Wukro Lodge). A transfer from Mekele costs a little more. After our stay in Gheralta, we continued to go to Axum Airport (2,200 ETB / 80 USD; 124 km, inquire at Gheralta Lodge). We came across large price differences in transfers. Since there is no official taxi service, we were very at the mercy of the local dealers and often had to smile and endure excessive prices.

domestic flights are the fastest way to travel to Ethiopia (check the latest routes here). It is much cheaper to book flights in an Ethiopian Airlines office in the country. Be sure to state whether you have flown internationally with you because you are entitled to a significant discount.

Addis Ababa is the most important international airport in the country. Book international flights via skyscanner.net.

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LONELY PLANET ETHIOPIA is a comprehensive travel guide for the country, ideal for those who want to explore the most important sights and take less busy roads. If you prefer to travel on a tour, we recommend G Adventures and their Ethiopia tours in small groups.

Mission statement: Atlas & Boots

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