Drive over the winding Sani Pass to Lesotho

Drive over the winding Sani Pass to Lesotho

The Sani Pass is considered one of the most dangerous mountain passes in the world. We decided to drive it on our overnight tour to Lesotho

Sometimes I'm jealous of earlier explorers - not grandees like Cook or Magellan, but everyday travelers who went somewhere and saw something not yet covered by Lonely Planet or Atlas & Boots.

I imagine sultry Indian summers with endless corridors of unexplored possibilities, or China's Hallelujah Mountains, foggy and deserted, and think of how magical those times must have been.

In the age of travel guides and Google, everything can be found. You can confirm your entire trip through a country without entering it. I enjoy the convenience of TripAdvisor and Google Maps, but I also crave true solitude.

There have been places where I have tried this simpler, arguably purer way of traveling: on the Erta Ale volcano in Ethiopia, in Lac Abbé in Djibouti, camping on Mafana Island in Tonga, climbing Nevis Peak in St. Kitts & Nevis, and trekking Mount Yasur in Vanuatu.

These rare gems evoke the romance of anachronistic journeys. They make me feel like the person I want to be: daring, carefree and a little careless. Sani Pass is one of those places.

Located at the western end of KwaZulu-Natal Province in South Africa, Sani is a mountain pass connecting Underberg in South Africa with Mokhotlong in Lesotho. The hairpin pass, described as one of the most dangerous in the world, starts at an altitude of 1,544 m and rises from 1,332 m to 2,876 m.

Sani Pass was built around 1950 and remains a challenging drive. With twisty turns, loose gravel, steep drops and hairpin bends, the Sani Pass requires careful care and practiced skill. In some cases the gradient reaches 1:3. It has claimed lives in treacherous conditions. In fact, one of the hairpins has the telling name “suicide curve.”

alt="The hairpin bends of the Sani Pass in Lesotho">Vaiz Ha; CC BY 2.0The hairpin bends of the Sani Pass in Lesotho

After driving thousands of kilometers across Namibia ourselves, we didn't feel like attempting the Sani Pass ourselves, so we booked an overnight tour to Lesotho and set off with a local expert from Roof of Africa.

We set off from the town of Underberg and drove 35 km along the Sani Pass Road to the South African border post. This itself is slow as much of the journey is on unpaved roads.

We showed our passports at the border control and were allowed to continue driving. Unless you are in a 4×4, expect to be turned away at this point.

alt=”Expect to be turned away if you don’t have a 4×4”>Atlas & BootsExpect to be turned away if you don't have a 4×4

After border control we started Sani Pass in earnest. This is where our guide's skills were really put to the test. The road scraped at the wheels of our vehicle, trying its best to remove traction. We made our way up, grinding and grinding up the treacherous gravel.

Somewhere along the winding pass I realized how beautiful this region is. I knew little about Lesotho before the trip and I admit I was expecting a dusty bowl of a country caught like a fly in South Africa's fist.

alt="Lesotho is a landlocked country of South Africa">Google MapsLesotho is a landlocked country of South Africa

I imagined parched landscapes of yellow and brown and withered dwellings withering in the sun. What I found was some of the most breathtaking scenery I have ever seen. Lush folds of velvet green rose like waves in a painting. The drama of this mountain pass leading to one of the least known countries in the world was absolutely stunning.

We got closer and climbed higher as the view got better. All in all, the Sani Pass is about 9km from the South African border post to its equivalent in Lesotho, and yet it took us 90 minutes to complete it - that's how important it is to drive carefully.

Around midday we reached Sani Mountain Lodge, home to Africa's highest pub. There we enjoyed lunch and a drink before visiting the highest point in the area at 3,240m.

At this point, day trippers turn around for the return journey. Luckily, we booked an overnight tour of Lesotho and were able to visit a local village where we were treated to a dance performance and a lesson on local customs.

Generally, Peter and I travel for nature and wildlife experiences rather than cultural experiences (especially those involving audience participation!), but this was a fun diversion, especially when the local women asked Peter if I was his wife and congratulated when he said yes.

Outside, Peter smiled and said sheepishly, "One of us has punched above his weight and it's clearly not you."

alt=“View of Lesotho from the Sani Pass”>Views from the Sani Pass

We met our guide (also called Peter) again under a rapidly changing sky. Dark clouds rolled in and we found ourselves in a sudden downpour. This scuppered our plans to watch the sunset from Black Mountain, so we headed to our accommodation at Mantsebo Guest House instead.

The next day we planned a pony trekking on a steep slope near the highest pub in Africa. Unfortunately the local provider had rented out all of his ponies, so we decided to hike instead.

I have written before about the general view that Africa is a homogeneous entity. I know Ethiopia is different than Mauritius, different than Namibia, and different than Egypt, but Lesotho really blew my guesses away. This country with green summers and snowy winters was not my idea of ​​Africa.

alt="On a hike in Lesotho">Atlas & BootsOn a hike in Lesotho

Soon after the hike we began our second crossing of the Sani Pass, this time descending. We bumped, scraped, and inched our way down, stopping once to help a rider who was stuck on the way up.

Peter, our guide, took over the driver's bikes and helped him out of the awkward situation. As he returned to our vehicle, he noticed he could see the concern in the driver's eyes. Sani Pass is not a trip or a joke. It poses a real and clear danger.

alt="Sani Pass poses a real danger">Atlas & BootsSani Pass poses a real danger

However, the conditions of the Sani Pass are subject to change. Chinese construction companies are expected to pave the road in 2019, a move that has been met with resistance. Local tour operators have complained that the Sani Pass's appeal lies in its rugged condition and that a paved, smooth road accessible to all vehicles would dampen its appeal. That's true, but of course the street must serve the locals first. Progress should not be hindered just to please tourists.

Still, it is sad that this is the nature of progress. It makes life easier, but no matter who it helps and where, it makes everything a little more boring. Rare gems like Sani Pass are becoming increasingly rare, which is why they are so special when you actually find them.

Sani Pass in Lesotho: Tips

• Sie können den Sani Pass selbst fahren, aber wir empfehlen Ihnen, sich aufgrund der Bedingungen einen Führer zu nehmen. In jedem Fall benötigen Sie einen 4 × 4.
• Erwägen Sie, länger als einen Tagesausflug zu bleiben, da dies mehr in die lokale Wirtschaft einfließt.
• Die Grenzkontrollpunkte für Südafrika und Lesotho schließen um 18:00 Uhr. Planen Sie also genügend Zeit ein, um den Pass zu vervollständigen (mit einem erfahrenen Reiseleiter haben wir 1,5 Stunden gebraucht, allerdings mit einigen Fotostopps).
• Vergessen Sie nicht, Ihren Reisepass einzupacken. Lesotho ist ein von Südafrika unabhängiges Land und Sie erhalten keine Einreise, wenn Sie keinen Reisepass haben.
• Wenn Sie gerne Ponyreiten gehen möchten, überprüfen Sie, ob dies gebucht ist, falls es nicht verfügbar ist.
• Packen Sie Schichten und warme Kleidung ein. Lesotho ist hoch und die Temperaturen können variieren.

Sani Pass in Lesotho: the essentials

What: Drive over the winding Sani Pass from South Africa to Lesotho.

Where: We stayed at Mantsebo Guest House in the picturesque village of Thabang in Mokhotlong. Named after Queen Regent 'Mants'ebo Amelia Seeiso, the first and only woman to rule Lesotho, the guesthouse consists of a series of rustic, thatched-roof accommodations set in charming grounds.

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Atlas & Boots

The rooms are clean and functional with private bathrooms and access to shared kitchens. We ate at the hotel's restaurant, which serves mostly Western dishes (book your meal in advance). There is no internet, but that only adds to its bohemian charm.

When: The best time to visit Lesotho is spring (September to November) and autumn (February to April), but the weather can be changeable at any time of the year. Expect rain in summer (December to January) and snow in winter (May to August).

How: We visited Sani Pass on the Lesotho Overnight Tour from Durban with Roof of Africa.

The price is ZAR 5,250 (US$380) per person and includes transfers to and from Durban via Wild Routes, a personal guide for the duration of the tour, robust 4×4 transport for the Sani Pass, accommodation in Lesotho, all activities and all meals (including one soft drink per meal). Pick-up in Durban is around 6:00 a.m. on day 1 and return is around 5:00 p.m. on day 2.

The price is quite high for an overnight tour, but remember that you are visiting one of the least seen countries in the world.

If you are already in Underberg, you can opt for the Lesotho Overnight Tour from Underberg (ZAR 3,750 / USD 270 per person), which leaves Underberg around 9:00am on Day 1 and returns around 1:00pm on Day 2.

We flew from Cape Town to Durban. Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

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Lonely Planet South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland is a comprehensive travel guide to Lesotho, ideal for those who want to both explore the top attractions and take the road less traveled.

Main image: Vaiz Ha; CC BY 2.0

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