Diving at Trou aux Biches in Mauritius

Diving at Trou aux Biches in Mauritius

Diving in Trou aux Biches after a year break reminds us why we fell in love with diving in the first place

We have arrived. In Mauritius. For hiking and diving. For a month! What an absurd set of sentences for a former teacher and working author.

We arranged our month-long stay through a local contact and so here we are on the extraordinary island of Mauritius, amid towering volcanic mountains, yawning valleys and of course some of the best beaches in the world.

At our first stop in Trou aux Biches we quickly look for an idyllic stretch of coast.

alt=“Our brochure worthy beach in Trou aux Biches”>Atlas & BootsOur brochure-worthy beach in Trou aux Biches

The diving at Trou aux Biches on the north side of the island is considered some of the best in Mauritius. We really want to do a wreck dive (well, Peter is excited; I'm nervous since I haven't dived in a year and it's never been my strongest suit.)

We hope to see either the Stella Maru wreck (17-25m) or the twin wrecks of Emily et Waterlilly (25m). I am not yet qualified to dive deeper than 18m but am hoping to see a wreck as part of my Advanced Open Water Diver qualification.

Unfortunately the conditions aren't quite right for the wrecks, so our skipper opts for the nearby Lost Anchor dive site (24-30m), another good spot for diving in Trou aux Biches.

alt=“Anchor seen while diving in Trou aux Biches”>Atlas & BootsThe anchor is decorated with corals

We begin our descent and I am pleased to see that everything is returning to me naturally: equalizing pressure, breathing slowly and controlling my buoyancy. It's not quite like riding a bike, but after a few adjustments I feel comfortable in the water.

We go to the anchor, which rests on a central rise above a small cave.

alt=“Lost anchor while diving in Trou aux Biches”>Atlas & BootsKia stops next to the anchor

While searching for marine life often spotted while diving in Trou aux Biches (stonefish, scorpion fish, puffer fish and even lobsters), we come across a bunch of turtles. The visibility is fantastic and the turtles are calm and quiet, allowing us to watch them for a long time.

As I float there in the water, I take a moment to appreciate how incredible it is to be underwater and so close to these magnificent creatures. You see, when you travel for a living, it's easy to take things like this for granted; as just another cool experience in a long line of cool experiences. But it is not self-evident. Turtles swim past me and it's fucking incredible.

That's why I love diving. It physically takes us out of our world and plants us in another where complacency is almost impossible.

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• alt=“Kia Tauchen in Trou aux Biches, Mauritius“>
• alt=“eine Schildkröte beim Tauchen in Trou aux Biches, Mauritius“>
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Atlas & Boots

As our group begins the ascent, it occurs to me that there is another reason why I love diving: the collective calm among divers.

Most people dive in a group of strangers and even though we can't talk to each other underwater, we all have a shared responsibility for each other. Everyone thinks and acts slowly and deliberately, their mental attitude deliberately calm. This kind of finely tuned serenity is hard to find in everyday life. As I think about this, a smile tugs at the corners of my mouth. With a month in Mauritius ahead of us, this is everyday life now.

Diving in Trou aux Biches: the essentials

What: Diving in Trou aux Biches, Mauritius.

Where: We spent three nights at Trou aux Biches Beachcomber on the northwest coast of Mauritius. The hotel is a little larger than what we usually opt for, but we were lured by the beach, good diving and, we heard, one of the best Indian restaurants on the island (over two-thirds of the local population is Indian). descent, so we expected amazing cuisine).

I'm happy to report that the food was truly impeccable. Mahiya offered some of the best curries we've ever tasted, and despite the fact that there were six restaurants on site, we ate there two nights in a row (advance reservations are essential).

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Atlas & Boots

The hotel itself has pretty much everything you need: tennis courts, a spa, a sports center and of course plenty of beach loungers!

When: The best time to visit Mauritius is from October to April, where temperatures are hot, although humid and rainy. This is a good time for diving, but be aware that hurricanes can occur from January to February. Winter on the island lasts from May to September. Temperatures are still warm, but it's not the best time for diving.

How: We organized our dive through the dive center in Trou aux Biches Beachcomber.

Trou aux Biches is 1 hour 15 minutes drive from the airport. Transfers can be organized through your hotel or a local driver (approximately 1500 MUR / 45 USD). We recommend Stelio (+230 52 5084 97).

We had a long layover before our connecting flight from Kuala Lumpur, so we settled into a private relaxation suite in the Plaza Premium Lounge in the airport for the night - a godsend considering Peter was recovering from a Burmese virus and the alternative would have been eight long hours in uncomfortable chairs.

Mauritius is served by several international airlines. Book via skyscanner.net for the best prices.

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Lonely Planet Mauritius, Réunion & Seychelles is a comprehensive travel guide to Mauritius, ideal for those who want to both explore the main attractions and take the road less traveled.

MISSION STATEMENT: SHUTTERSTOCK

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