On the trail of leopards and cheetahs in the Okonjima nature reserve, Namibia

On the trail of leopards and cheetahs in the Okonjima nature reserve, Namibia

We visit one of the world's best places to see cheetahs and leopards: the Okonjima Nature Reserve in Namibia

I'll be honest: in theory I like the idea of ​​staying in an eco-lodge; In practice, however, I'm not thrilled by the prospect of drop toilets, weak water pressure, poor ventilation that makes everything a little damp, or open walls that allow entry for insects. This might explain why I was skeptical about staying in the Okonjima Nature Reserve in Namibia.

As a steward of the conservation organization AfriCat, Okonjima is exactly the kind of place that could offer imperfect facilities under the banner of “Doing Good.”

However, upon arrival I realized how wrong I was. Located on the sandstone Omboroko Mountains, Okonjima offers luxurious accommodation in the remote wilderness of its own nature reserve. High ceilings, exposed brickwork and funky industrial decor create an airy, open atmosphere that's far from what I expected.

alt=“Our first impression of the Okonjima Nature Reserve”>Okonjima Nature ReserveOur first impression of the Okonjima Nature Reserve

So it's almost a coincidence that Okonjima is so committed to conservation. The truth is that it began on the other side of the conservation fight: that is, as farmland owned by Rose and VJ Hanssen, who settled there in 1970. The Hanssen family raised Brahman cattle and, like other farmers, suffered losses from carnivores.

Namibia is home to the world's largest free-roaming cheetah population, but due to commercial agriculture and urban encroachment on wild habitats, cheetahs and leopards often venture onto the country's approximately 7,000 commercial farms.

alt="Leopards are being forced out of dwindling habitats and onto farmland">Atlas & BootsShrinking habitats have forced leopards onto farmland

The Hanssens, like other farmers, tried to reduce their agricultural losses by trapping, shooting and hunting leopards. This had little impact: the loss of 20 to 30 cows per year decimated their herds and led to crushing financial losses, a situation that hit smaller farms even harder. The Hanssens supplemented their income by taking trophy hunters around their acreage.

Faced with this cycle of decimation and death, land degradation and horrific destruction of large carnivores, the Hanssens' children, Wayne, Tammy, Roselea and Donna, committed themselves to doing better.

The Hanssen family radically shifted their focus from farming in Okonjima to creating a 200 km2 private nature reserve. Their goal was to restore the land to what it once looked like and to protect leopards and cheetahs forced onto farmland from dwindling habitat.

alt="AfriCat promotes a culture of coexistence in the Okonjima Nature Reserve">Atlas & BootsAfriCat promotes a culture of togetherness

To promote a culture of coexistence, the Hanssens founded the AfriCat Foundation in 1991 to break the vicious circle of “leopard kills cow, farmer kills leopard.”

As part of its mission, AfriCat trains farmers and school children, tracks carnivores and warns farmers to collect livestock if they get too close, and collects carnivores that would otherwise be killed by farmers.

To date, AfriCat has rescued and released more than 1,080 large carnivores, accounting for 86% of the animals that have passed through its hands. Those who cannot be rehabilitated for various reasons are raised appropriately. This is a necessary part of the foundation's work, but poignant nonetheless. After all, “AfriCat” means not just an African cat, as I first thought, but a free cat – the foundation’s ultimate goal, saving carnivores.

alt="Okonjima Nature Reserve is one of the best places in the world to spot leopards">Atlas & BootsThe Okonjima Nature Reserve is one of the best places in the world to spot leopards

We only had one night in Okonjima at the very end of our self-drive safari through Namibia and decided to visit AfriCat to learn more about its work and see its cats up close.

The first thing I noticed at AfriCat was a large hanging map illustrating how many farms surround the reserve. No wonder the animals get lost on farmland. The center is full of similarly eye-catching resources. In another section is a collection of cans that demonstrate the delicate balance of life on Earth.

alt="Demonstrates the delicate balance of life, Okonjima Nature Reserve">Atlas & BootsDemonstrating the delicate balance of life

Our guide, Martin, plucked the top can from the structure. “When people disappear, the rest of life goes on,” he said. He pointed to a lower can. “However, if oryx and wildebeest disappear, leopard and cheetah could also disappear.” It was a simplification, but also an effective way to demonstrate to students our place in the chain and the harm we inflict on those below us.

We soon went in search of Electra, a free-roaming leopard that was tracked by AfriCat. Electra wears a collar so researchers can analyze big cats' movement patterns and warn farmers when they get too close to a boundary. Allowing farmers to fence in their livestock prevents them from killing a cat.

We watched a wonderful display of Electra's son coming over to play (and her acting quite cranky). It was clear that Okonjima Nature Reserve is one of the best places in the world to see leopards and cheetahs. Of course, direct interaction is strictly prohibited and observers must watch from a distance. Nonetheless, the experience is nothing short of magical.

We then ventured out in search of Peanut and Raisin, two cheetahs that are unfortunately not classified as wild. A farmer killed the cheetahs' mother and kept them until they were a year old. He called AfriCat when he felt he could no longer raise her.

alt=“An orphaned cheetah in the Okonjima Nature Reserve”>Atlas & BootsPeanut, an orphaned cheetah in the Okonjima Nature Reserve

Over time – through training students and farmers – AfriCat hopes that saving carnivores will no longer be part of its mission; that people might break the cycle themselves. Until then, it will continue its efforts to conserve one of the largest and most beautiful big cat populations on Earth.

That evening, as we watched a majestic sunset over the Acacia Thornveld, we decided once and for all: Namibia is one of the most special places any of us have ever seen.

• alt=“AfriCat fördert eine Kultur des Zusammenlebens im Naturschutzgebiet Okonjima“>
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Atlas & Boots

Tracking leopards in the Okonjima Nature Reserve: the most important thing

What: Tracking leopards and cheetahs in the Okonjima Nature Reserve in Namibia as part of a 17-day self-drive safari with Wild Dog Safaris.

Where: Accommodation on the tour includes 16 nights in a range of hotels, lodges and safari camps, including Okonjima Plains Camp.

The tour can be booked as either accommodation (like we did), camping or a combination of both. Breakfast and several dinners are included in the overnight option; Camping is largely self-catering.

When: The best time to travel to Namibia is May-October during the dry season (winter). The low seasons of May and November are good for cheaper accommodation with higher availability. Heavy rains can occur in November, although mainly in short, intense bursts.

How: We visited Okonjima Nature Reserve and AfriCat as part of our self-drive safari. Wild Dog Safaris will book accommodation, provide a rental car and organize an itinerary for the trip. On arrival in Windhoek we were met by Wild Dog Safaris who provided us with a detailed itinerary, driving directions, maps and information.

We flew to Namibia with British Airways via Johannesburg in South Africa. Book flights at the best prices through Skyscanner.

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Disclosure: We traveled to Namibia with the support of Wild Dog Safaris. All publications say this, but we really don't guarantee positive coverage. We say what we think – good and bad – so you can make informed decisions with honest advice.

Lonely Planet Botswana & Namibia is a comprehensive travel guide to Namibia and includes some useful tips for visiting Swakopmund.

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